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Dear Scarpa.... (Read 33937 times)

JackAus

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#50 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 04, 2016, 08:26:32 am
Is the fit identical to the VS?

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I'm on my 4th pair of VSs and they usually take a few weeks to wear in.
In theory they should be the same....

benno

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#51 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 04, 2016, 12:26:17 pm
Quite often the only difference between the men's and women's versions of Scarpa shoes is the rubber, with the latter aimed at lighter climbers.

Really? Like what?

The current Vapour V springs to mind. I don't think the last is any different.

Drew

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#52 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 04, 2016, 05:05:11 pm
Quite often the only difference between the men's and women's versions of Scarpa shoes is the rubber, with the latter aimed at lighter climbers.

Really? Like what?

The current Vapour V springs to mind. I don't think the last is any different.

I was more querying which shoes have different rubber between the men's and women's version. As for the Vapour V, I'll agree the lasts are quite similar, but they are definitely slightly different.

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#53 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 04, 2016, 05:12:41 pm
That's what I was giving an example of. The women's have XS Grip 2, the men's have XS Edge.

Drew

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#54 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 08, 2016, 02:47:42 pm
That's what I was giving an example of. The women's have XS Grip 2, the men's have XS Edge.

I think you're looking at the old model.

creedence

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#55 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 20, 2016, 10:32:27 am
What have people who used the old Instinct laces moved on to?
They fit my feel so well, and the new ones look very different.
Everything seems to have XSEdge2 now as well damn it Scarpa.

danm

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#56 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 20, 2016, 11:26:32 am
Everything seems to have XSEdge2 now as well damn it Scarpa.

Except for the following:

Stix
Furia
Drago
VS-R
Mago
Booster

Ignoring the entry level and kids shoes, that's more shoes with XS Grip in the range than with XS Edge.

Being relatively heavy at around 80kg, the XS Edge works really well for me most of the time. Because the fit works so well for me, my shoes going forward will be probably both types of the VS, the -R I'll save for indoors and for gritstone bouldering.

sidewinder

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#57 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 20, 2016, 11:53:31 am
What have people who used the old Instinct laces moved on to?
They fit my feel so well, and the new ones look very different.
Everything seems to have XSEdge2 now as well damn it Scarpa.
I am trying the new la sportive otaki, too early to fully review yet but initially promising.

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creedence

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#58 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 20, 2016, 12:00:15 pm
Everything seems to have XSEdge2 now as well damn it Scarpa.

Except for the following:

Stix
Furia
Drago
VS-R
Mago
Booster

Ignoring the entry level and kids shoes, that's more shoes with XS Grip in the range than with XS Edge.

Being relatively heavy at around 80kg, the XS Edge works really well for me most of the time. Because the fit works so well for me, my shoes going forward will be probably both types of the VS, the -R I'll save for indoors and for gritstone bouldering.

Perhaps I should have quantified my statement a little more with shoes for trad  :oops:.
My experience of those are they are all super soft, there doesn't seem to be a stiffer shoe with XS Grip.  Albeit I've not see the VS-R yet, so maybe that's the answer.

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#59 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 20, 2016, 12:49:47 pm

Perhaps I should have quantified my statement a little more with shoes for trad  :oops:.
My experience of those are they are all super soft, there doesn't seem to be a stiffer shoe with XS Grip.  Albeit I've not see the VS-R yet, so maybe that's the answer.

My experience with a resoled boostic (stiff shoe, originally with XsEdge) is that XsGrip & stiff shoe is a bit of a weird combo. It's a little better on less positive footholds, but noticeably squirmier on positive edges and it's still no smearing weapon.

Have you tried resoling anything with XSGrip?

danm

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#60 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 20, 2016, 01:13:47 pm
Trad usually means standing around on footholds for ages. This means a stiff-ish shoe with a good edging compound like XS Edge. Using a smearing compound will just compromise performance for the majority of the shoes use?

T_B

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#61 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 20, 2016, 01:24:49 pm
Everything seems to have XSEdge2 now as well damn it Scarpa.

Except for the following:

Stix
Furia
Drago
VS-R
Mago
Booster

Ignoring the entry level and kids shoes, that's more shoes with XS Grip in the range than with XS Edge.

Being relatively heavy at around 80kg, the XS Edge works really well for me most of the time. Because the fit works so well for me, my shoes going forward will be probably both types of the VS, the -R I'll save for indoors and for gritstone bouldering.

Perhaps I should have quantified my statement a little more with shoes for trad  :oops:.
My experience of those are they are all super soft, there doesn't seem to be a stiffer shoe with XS Grip.  Albeit I've not see the VS-R yet, so maybe that's the answer.

Isn't that supposed to be the point of the VS-R? I had my VS re-soled in XSG2 and they work well being a tad softer (though I've worn through the re-sole surprisingly quickly). I think some of the sponsored climbers had 'specials' made of the VS with XSG2.

In answer to your original question, isn't the new Instinct Lace that's coming out stiffer than the VS? I can't remember now. Drew?

rodma

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#62 Re: Dear Scarpa....
July 20, 2016, 03:59:41 pm
Is the fit identical to the VS?

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Dunno, I went down half a size cos they're softer

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I'm now breaking in the vsr and going down a half size ( up a half size from the instinct slipper) was sensible, since they are way more sensitive than the vs.

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#63 Re: Dear Scarpa....
August 04, 2016, 09:26:53 am
after starting this thread, i got a pair of dragos and they are great - just what i was looking for .... :icon_beerchug:

Paul B

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#64 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 11, 2016, 08:27:08 pm
I was just about to try and buy a pair of the VSRs online but can't quite work out what size my VSs are (either the printed size has worn off or it was never there in the first place). Is anyone daft enough (/willing and around a size 7, I seem to be 6.5 in FiveTens these days) to measure their boots so I can take an educated guess?

Mine measure roughly 23.5cm from the tip of the toe, to the back of the heel (with the boot arching and the tape measure staying flat).

I'd just go to a shop but I'm running out of time before a trip.

tomtom

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#65 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 12, 2016, 07:12:03 am
I suspect the VSR's will stretch more than the VS's... (thinner rubber) so if unsure I'd err on the side of smaller...

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#66 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 12, 2016, 08:13:33 am
I was just about to try and buy a pair of the VSRs online but can't quite work out what size my VSs are (either the printed size has worn off or it was never there in the first place). Is anyone daft enough (/willing and around a size 7, I seem to be 6.5 in FiveTens these days) to measure their boots so I can take an educated guess?

Mine measure roughly 23.5cm from the tip of the toe, to the back of the heel (with the boot arching and the tape measure staying flat).

I'd just go to a shop but I'm running out of time before a trip.
My 40.5s are 23.5cm, my 40s are 23cm.

Paul B

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#67 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 12, 2016, 09:35:50 am
Thanks.

TomTom, I had it in my head to go a half size down but I tried thy old pair on the other night and they were still really snug. They're mainly for routes too.

tomtom

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#68 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 12, 2016, 09:59:46 am
Thanks.

TomTom, I had it in my head to go a half size down but I tried thy old pair on the other night and they were still really snug. They're mainly for routes too.

Yes - though my most recent pair of VS were half a size larger than my (crippling for the first month) first pair - and have not bagged at all.. I'm getting the first pair re-soled with the thinner rubber to make my own VSR's :)

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#69 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 13, 2016, 01:50:21 pm
Anyone has any recommendations on how the VSR would do in Font? The VS were obviously way too stiff.

How are they at smearing?

I can only pick up 1 pair and generally prefer something downturned. I really like the VS but don't want to get another pair for the imminent Font trip as they really don't suit the climbing at all.

Fultonius

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#70 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 13, 2016, 04:58:51 pm
Furia?  Not tried either mind...

tomtom

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#71 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 13, 2016, 05:12:46 pm
I find the instinct slipper a really good allround grit shoe (heel is crap though)... plenty of sensitivity and good for smearage. Iirc, the vsr has the same thinner rubber as the slipper...

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#72 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 13, 2016, 05:20:32 pm
I'm really getting into my Vapours now they're a bit more worn in. I only really got them as an indoor shoe, that I could take off easily. I'm now finding in Font that I use them in preference to my (practically new unworn in) pinks on mostly everything except micro-grattons. I find that I'm smearing a lot more than I do with the pinks. Don't know if a perfect Font shoe exists.

Drew

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#73 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 18, 2016, 11:21:10 pm
To my feet the VSR feels like an Instinct Slipper with a velcro strap. What the VS was originally pegged as until Bishton had his wicked way. It is noticeably softer than the VS, and has stretched more (although they are a smaller size so not surprising really). I took mine to Font along with some VS, and Dragos. I wore the Dragos a few times, but mostly lived in the VSR.

Paul B

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#74 Re: Dear Scarpa....
October 19, 2016, 10:02:52 am
My 40.5s are 23.5cm, my 40s are 23cm.

They fit!  ;D

 

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