Do you even siege, bro.. (Read 47752 times)

shark · May 06, 2016, 01:57:34 pm

It sounds like everybody assumes I love training - I don't. But at least I'm no longer an expert on avoiding and loathing training

petejh · May 06, 2016, 02:05:52 pm

You're unbelievable.

Actually I think it's more that some people - people who know what they're talking about because they've been there - assume if you want to successfully climb your hardest goal route in a respectable time then you'll have to embrace training, whether or not you like it. And if the route is a short limestone 8b then you'll have to embrace training on a board and/or bouldering on limestone similar to the route angle/hold type.

That's why you started in April 2007 and it's now May 2016 and you haven't done it.

shark · May 06, 2016, 02:19:29 pm

Yes, there were times, I'm sure you knew
When I bit off more than I could chew.
But through it all, when there was doubt,
I ate it up and spit it out

petejh · May 06, 2016, 02:20:50 pm

'Take'.

SA Chris · May 06, 2016, 02:31:14 pm

Quote from: dave on May 06, 2016, 01:35:51 pm

Shark just sack off all the other bullshit and do a 3-month block on the school 50 board, your finger strength, power, and bodytension will go through the roof, then you'll get on it in autumn and all the moves will be so easy you'd not even get powered out or pumped. You will get your ass handed to you on a silver platter to begin with I promise you, but having broken you down it will then build you back up again. This advice comes with Dave's cast iron guarantee.

I used to loathe a steep board, and getting my ass consistently spanked and then handed back to me. However I have persevered with trying hard on it, learning the technique, developing the form and doing supplementary training and getting stronger and now I can just about do some moderately hard stuff on it. Embrace your shitness, swallow your ego and fucking get on with it. Feels a bit like the dobbin / Mecca saga.

Bonjoy · May 06, 2016, 02:58:09 pm

I can't be doing with sieging. More than three days kills the fun for me. I've pushed it a bit further in the past but generally only for first ascents I was really psyched about where the prize was worth the pain. Seems to me that if it takes more than say ten sessions you are doing something wrong. Surely going away and working whatever is stopping you getting up the thing is the quickest way to get the tick.
As others have said serial siegers tend to get used to failure and often lack the killer redpoint instinct. Too much resignation to throwing good time after bad.

Footwork · May 06, 2016, 03:09:18 pm

Training on a steep board can be a lot of fun. Trying really, really hard on some ridiculous moves with some seriously good music banging out of some decent speakers in a room filled with chalk at 11pm. What's not to like

Embrace the board Shark. Go on. Join the dark side.

andy_e · May 06, 2016, 04:09:36 pm

Boards are the past, present and future of climbing.

Doylo · May 06, 2016, 04:35:25 pm

Quote from: shark on May 06, 2016, 02:19:29 pm

Yes, there were times, I'm sure you knew
When I bit off more than I could chew.
But through it all, when there was doubt,
I ate it up and spit it out

Hope you're going to release that when you tick it.

36chambers · May 07, 2016, 12:29:19 am

When I plateaued I hit the 50 board and all was good.

Johnny Brown · May 10, 2016, 02:16:21 pm

Fuck 'em Shark.

You like going rock climbing, so go rock climbing. If you don't do it, who cares. At least you didn't waste three months of your life on some fucking plywood.

cowboyhat · May 10, 2016, 03:09:37 pm

Wise words you fucking hippy.

He still needs to change his habits. Bouldering down the Tor/ Rubicon as an old school outdoor alternative to the 50 board? Why not try that a few evenings after work whilst its light Simon? Two a week for a month to mimic that indoor wall training experience...

X is fine but there is only one problem in Sharks grade range and no possibilities for eliminates.

I like how this thread has degenerated into yet another discussion about Shark v The Oak. In time all threads will go the same way leaving the forum as a beautiful homage to Malham, The Oak, stubbornness, training advice and perhaps even Simon himself.

Doylo · May 10, 2016, 03:25:20 pm

Quote from: cowboyhat on May 10, 2016, 03:09:37 pm

I like how this thread has degenerated into yet another discussion about Shark v The Oak. In time all threads will go the same way leaving the forum as a beautiful homage to Malham, The Oak, stubbornness, training advice and perhaps even Simon himself.

And the sooner the better.

csl · May 10, 2016, 03:27:48 pm

Sharks Law - The UKB version of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godwin%27s_law

that is, if an online discussion (regardless of topic or scope) goes on long enough, sooner or later someone will reference Shark vs The Oak.

Will Hunt · May 10, 2016, 03:29:58 pm

Quote from: cowboyhat on May 10, 2016, 03:09:37 pm

Wise words you fucking hippy.

He still needs to change his habits. Bouldering down the Tor/ Rubicon as an old school outdoor alternative to the 50 board? Why not try that a few evenings after work whilst its light Simon? Two a week for a month to mimic that indoor wall training experience...

X is fine but there is only one problem in Sharks grade range and no possibilities for eliminates.

I like how this thread has degenerated into yet another discussion about Shark v The Oak. In time all threads will go the same way leaving the forum as a beautiful homage to Malham, The Oak, stubbornness, training advice and perhaps even Simon himself.

U K Oak Commentary Kongress

Johnny Brown · May 10, 2016, 03:43:31 pm

Quote

Sharks Law - The UKB version

I always though sieging at your limit was more an example of the Peter principle.

shark · May 10, 2016, 04:41:48 pm

Quote from: cowboyhat on May 10, 2016, 03:09:37 pm

I like how this thread has degenerated into yet another discussion about Shark v The Oak. In time all threads will go the same way leaving the forum as a beautiful homage to Malham, The Oak, stubbornness, training advice and perhaps even Simon himself.

I'm not sure why - its not like I'm lying or chipping or dabbing or tickmarking or have a small head or paint warrior figurines or film myself walking to the crag. I did try to stay out of this thread despite the comments but then Bendy Vision came along and me specifically about something or other.

JohnM · May 10, 2016, 05:20:11 pm

Maybe it is because you define a siege at the moment. Has anyone been sieging a route as actively as you in the UK in the last decade?

petejh · May 10, 2016, 05:26:20 pm

Yeah why would a thread about sieges mention you? Hmmm.. let me have a think $:-\$ . Maybe because you've been hanging off Oak so long you're included on the Malham visitor's board panoramic?

dave · May 10, 2016, 06:11:33 pm

Can someone phone Keith and tell him we need the siege crown back?

Fiend · May 10, 2016, 06:32:22 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on May 10, 2016, 02:16:21 pm

Fuck 'em Shark.

You like going rock climbing, so go rock climbing.

If there's any evidence of our mighty and fairly benevolent* Overlord actually liking sieging the Oak, he does keep it carefully hidden in any Power Club updates about the process

(* I saw that comment about warrior figurines

)

shark · May 10, 2016, 06:53:17 pm

Quote from: JohnM on May 10, 2016, 05:20:11 pm

Maybe it is because you define a siege at the moment. Has anyone been sieging a route as actively as you in the UK in the last decade?

At last a claim to fame

Paul B · May 10, 2016, 09:38:32 pm

I'm wondering if I'm going to regret my lack of RPing in later life; having moved about as close to the Yorkshire Lime as I'm likely to get now would be the perfect time to get stuck into something truly hard. However, due to work, my spare time and my holidays need to be enjoyable or else I'll be horrendous to be around. I just can't bring myself to go beyond a few sessions. My longest RP to date (power-endurance routes really do suck you in) felt like more of a relief than anything else whereas climbing heaps of high quality routes is just brilliant.

Back to the life-decisions tangent, I wonder if in 10 years time (or less) I'll have exhausted the low-hanging fruit nearby and be forced into endless sieges. I had a good year last year but there's no way my level of effort is sustainable.

Back a good few pages, Will, conditions, grades, lines etc. all limit the choice in this country for venue choice. No, they're all far from horrendously polished and on steep sport the holds are generally quite big (relatively speaking).

SEDur · May 10, 2016, 11:45:30 pm

Stone must have a seige close to the same order... How long has he been trying caviar of nemasis?

Also, I agree with Johnny. I also agree with all those saying to get on the board action. It makes such a massive difference if you are keen enough to use it.

That said, I don't really think I have ever seiged anything. Success usually comes within 10 sessions.

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Nibile · May 12, 2016, 11:47:34 am

As an experienced multi-year sieger, I have to say that quick ticks are good for the Ego and for letting you know that you've been doing good in your training, whatever it could have been, but only if the climb is at a reasonably high level compared to one's overall abilities.
Long sieges, on the other hand, are a test of one's mental and physical thoughness and singlemindedness. They are a test of pure will and determination, in achieving something very very far from one's starting point.
And, if correctly carried on with proper training, a siege can result in a big overall progress.
People tend to think about a siege only with respect to a single climb, but sieging is a way of seeing the overall process: years of training are a siege, and they are part and prerequisite of the single siege of the single climb.