Also, any chance one of the mods could correct the typo in the title for future search ease?
Sound good. Is this the only line the washing away of the third block opened up?
Slightly squeezed line on the super bloc but good fun. Start on the obivous rail left of purple haze, do a big move to a small (1/4 pad) sharp crimp/pinch with left hand then go up and join the top of purple haze. Grade wise I suggest 7C+ but got dodgy finger on left hand so can't really tell how hard I am pulling atm.Also did another problem starting on the jugs of Purple Haze, head leftwards through the crimp rail and finish up the steep crack. Apparently this had been done in the last week but not details, thought was about 7C and really good problem.Thought I would mention them to add a few more problems to a great little venue.
Quote from: turnipturned on May 27, 2016, 10:16:11 amSlightly squeezed line on the super bloc but good fun. Start on the obivous rail left of purple haze, do a big move to a small (1/4 pad) sharp crimp/pinch with left hand then go up and join the top of purple haze. Grade wise I suggest 7C+ but got dodgy finger on left hand so can't really tell how hard I am pulling atm.Also did another problem starting on the jugs of Purple Haze, head leftwards through the crimp rail and finish up the steep crack. Apparently this had been done in the last week but not details, thought was about 7C and really good problem.Thought I would mention them to add a few more problems to a great little venue.have you a photo of the line? I did something that sounds a bit like this, starting left of purple haze, keeping left, seemed like two hardish moves, going to a crimp then the top! Did this a year or so ago, but not sure really if its what you describe, probably not!
Quote from: Andy W on May 27, 2016, 06:24:09 pmQuote from: turnipturned on May 27, 2016, 10:16:11 amSlightly squeezed line on the super bloc but good fun. Start on the obivous rail left of purple haze, do a big move to a small (1/4 pad) sharp crimp/pinch with left hand then go up and join the top of purple haze. Grade wise I suggest 7C+ but got dodgy finger on left hand so can't really tell how hard I am pulling atm.Also did another problem starting on the jugs of Purple Haze, head leftwards through the crimp rail and finish up the steep crack. Apparently this had been done in the last week but not details, thought was about 7C and really good problem.Thought I would mention them to add a few more problems to a great little venue.have you a photo of the line? I did something that sounds a bit like this, starting left of purple haze, keeping left, seemed like two hardish moves, going to a crimp then the top! Did this a year or so ago, but not sure really if its what you describe, probably not!https://www.instagram.com/p/BF3-SVjEQW7/
Hi Andy.No the crimp is pretty small (around 1/4 pad) and you can pinch it. You start on the double crimp rail well left of purple haze, i rocked up off a left heel to the said hold (which was just off full lock). I have a vid which I can send you? You on FB?
Heh Andy, hope you are having a splendid time in France.I think you might be talking about the problem listed as Purple Haze Eliminate here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=12254It was the Mabon's what did the line going left from Purple Haze.There are now some easier lines left of Purple Haze and Dan's problem. A 'crack' line and a line of jugs starting as far back as you wish meeting Purple Haze at it's end. Great warm ups and something more amenable for the sub 7 punter.Dense you are correct, the spot is amazing and the boulder is perhaps the most impressive on the coast of the SW peninsular. The problems are all superb too, AWOL should be on the list of anyone who is capable.