[the_dom]

Mon: Deadlifts, bouldering and weighted max hangs. Golfer's elbow is properly sore. No more weights or deadhanging for a while.
Tues: Trail run
Wed: Bouldering. Elbow not great.
Thurs: AM Treadmill (20 mins), PM Bouldering.
Fri: Elbow sore. PM Treadmill.
Sat: Bouldering
Sun: Wine tasting, followed by a nap on the couch and a trail run.

Elbow isn't great, but doing lots of rehab and hoping it will improve.

[tomtom]

A busy week...

M: Rest after 3 days on..

Tu: Morning beastmaker session - lunchtime flight to Vienna for conference...

W > Fr: Conference stuff - came back late friday eve. Meant to go to the wall on Thurs but felt trashed so had a nap instead

Sa: Managed to get out in the afternoon to Helsby. Had fun on the Barrel buttress - worked most of the moves (that I'd do without a spotter) on Ron Burgandy's - and did a nice sit start to an old V0/V1.. Nice moves - quite burly and grit like - not found that often on Cheshire sandstone



Su: A long day shopping... and stuff... escaped to the Manchester Depot early evening and had a really good 60-90 min session. Liking the new purples

A tough week to stay in shape - especially with the meat and potato heavy diet in Austria... Unfortunately its another work/travel/notmuchchancetoclimb this week...

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 45 mins.
Tue. Weights and deadhanging.
Wed. Physio.  Nothing else as it was wedding anniversary.
Thu. Afternoon off work bike 61.65 miles 3hr 37mins longest ride for 6 months. Battered.
Fri. Sore weights and deadhanging.
Sat. Physio new exs a bit like step aerobics. Bike 19.09 miles 1 hr 9 mins came home when it started snowing.
Sun. Bike 51.67 miles 3hrs 21 mins really windy and a fair few hills.
Now doing Plyometrics to work my Achilles, cycling going well. Really losing the plot with weights and fingerboard.

[Falling Down]

A brief two week report.

M (two weeks ago)  - Bouldering at The Westway.  Some good progress on the Blacks and Whites but felt quite tired. 
S (just over a week ago) - Swanage with duncan.  First day out trad climbing for several years... Character building but great fun.
T (last week) - A day out at Stanage with a climbing writer/writing climber who'd not tied on a rope for a long time.  A really great day out for the both of us for different reasons doing a bunch of 3* routes in the lower grades in lovely weather.  Magic.

Full of a cold since Saturday so not done much else.

[Murph]

Goals
STG - by June - get the easier things on my wish list ticked, mostly that means 7As such as Early Doors, Sidetrack, Marks, but also a few 6s such as Conan, Nicotine, NTBTA and so on.
MTG - by September - get at least one of the 7Bs on my list ticked, main targets Piss, Kidney, G, Marks.
LTG - regularly crush 7B then who knows...

M- push ups / pull ups / leg raises 120/29/40.
Fingerboard routine:
+24kgs small edge for 11s so increased weight to 28kgs and hung for 7/8/8s
35 deg sloper: +4kgs for 20s, +8kgs for 10s & +12kgs for 6s - finding the level with the sloper
40 minute stretches - touched toes. Was 4 inches off last Monday. Practicing stretches works, who knew!?

T- Push/pull/leg 150/29/45. 45 minute stretch.

W- 2 hour works session. 15-18 blacks. Not a bad session. 135 push. 35 min stretch.

T- Push/pull/leg 145/30/45. 40 min stretch.

F- Push/pull/leg 150/30/45. 45 min stretch.
Fingerboard routine:
+28kgs for 10/10/10/10 seconds
35 deg sloper: +16kgs for 10/10/10 seconds
Hmmm - lots of 10s need more weight clearly.

S- family bouldering at burbage, 35 min stretch
S- brief session on burbage, climbed pock sit 6C and then had about 12 goes on the sheep. Frustrating. Family Boulder at buckstone. Good laugh.

Weight: 66-67. Goal 63 but not focused on that at minute.

[shurt]

Shark, I'm really hoping you get the Oak done soon. It's the send the world's waiting for (no pressure)!

STG: get out climbing this weekend
MTG: do some more 7b routes
LTG: do some big numbers and/or big balls routes

Wednesday: tried this new feet on fingerboard thing from a vid online with Paul Fearn. Got it from an old thread on here. Got pretty pumped. 2 mins on a 5 mins rest. Did it 2 or 3 times.
Sunday: Same again but only two sets before le petit monsieur started kicking off in the bath.

Pretty low key week but feeling ok. Hopefully get out this weekend.

[Sasquatch]

STG - current board project. Go and try the route at least once before Summer.

Mon - board climbing. A bit tired from the Sunday journey. Tried two new problems that I recently set. One is absolutely brilliant. Underclings galore. Ab-wheel, two singles with full stretch pause: first one 1'20", second one 55".

I read this and thought you did it at full extension on the toes....  I was in complete shock. 

[Sasquatch]

Dunno how far back to go as I haven't posted up since March 20th...

Went on vacation with my wife and daughter for 2 weeks.  Got in four days of climbing outside.  A good day in Leavenworth where I cleaned up a variety of problems I had tried in the past but not completed.  A short sport climbing day in clear creek canyon, co where I did 4 sport routes.  A short (1.5 hr) session at the ogden boulders in Utah where I sessioned about 40 problem in 2 hrs.

I got back to town and did a moonboard session with friends.  Then headed out of town for work, where I managed to squeeze in a couple of days of climbing - mostly a good day at Yankee Jim near Bozeman MT.   

I've been nursing an Achilles tendonitis issue for the last few months, and it's gotten progressively worse.  I finally realized I needed to deal with it as I couldn't wear climbing show anymore... So now I'm on to a solid 4 weeks of training without shoes.  Loads of campus and FB. Then reassess how the achilles is doing.

EDIT: and the work front is crazy. looking at 50-60+ hrs/wk for the next 2-3 months...  I hope I don't go insane

[tomtom]

Dunno how far back to go as I haven't posted up since March 20th...

Went on vacation with my wife and daughter for 2 weeks.  Got in four days of climbing outside.  A good day in Leavenworth where I cleaned up a variety of problems I had tried in the past but not completed.  A short sport climbing day in clear creek canyon, co where I did 4 sport routes.  A short (1.5 hr) session at the ogden boulders in Utah where I sessioned about 40 problem in 2 hrs.

I got back to town and did a moonboard session with friends.  Then headed out of town for work, where I managed to squeeze in a couple of days of climbing - mostly a good day at Yankee Jim near Bozeman MT.   

I've been nursing an Achilles tendonitis issue for the last few months, and it's gotten progressively worse.  I finally realized I needed to deal with it as I couldn't wear climbing show anymore... So now I'm on to a solid 4 weeks of training without shoes.  Loads of campus and FB. Then reassess how the achilles is doing.

EDIT: and the work front is crazy. looking at 50-60+ hrs/wk for the next 2-3 months...  I hope I don't go insane

Been to Leavenworth - some great bouldering there - and a weird chocolate box village!

RE shoes - I've a pair of those Addidas-5:10 trainers - and I recon you could boulder on a board/wall pretty well in those as theyre pretty stiff - and they are very supportive of the achiles...

[SA Chris]

It's the send the world's waiting for

I think it's tiiiii-ime to get real.

[Nibile]

STG - current board project. Go and try the route at least once before Summer.

Mon - board climbing. A bit tired from the Sunday journey. Tried two new problems that I recently set. One is absolutely brilliant. Underclings galore. Ab-wheel, two singles with full stretch pause: first one 1'20", second one 55".

I read this and thought you did it at full extension on the toes....  I was in complete shock.

Ahahahahah! Unfortunately not Sasq, but thanks for thinking about it, I take it as a compliment. I will surely try it, although 1'20" on the toes looks quite hard. The Summer is going to be long and hot though.
Good luck with your Achilles!

[cheque]

STG (next month or so)- get big wall fitness required for making film. At 3.5 weeks now- feeling pretty fit but increased climbing volume has taken the lead.
MTG (by late Autumn 2016)- Finish film while making progress towards LTG.
LTG (by end Nov 2019)- 8a.

M- Burbage North- got straight on Remergence which felt nails- couldn't pull on! Then two guys appeared, showed me the actual start and I did it pretty quickly.  Spent another hour on the small slab to the right of there. 

T- Burbage South- wanted to check out the edge bouldering as I'd only tried it once before. Found loads of good stuff I fancied but nearly came a cropper on first go at Sitting Duck- not a great place for the lone single-padded boulderer really. Did some easy problems.

W- Walk to Rivelin. Soloed a nice Severe there. Got momentarily wedged in an offwidth trying to descend it chimney-style.

Th- Burbage South w/ Ashtond6. Cool evening. Did Rock Bottom second go as a warm-up, spent the rest of the eveninig not doing Sitting Duck with a few tries at other stuff.

F- Rest. Thin skin.

Sa- Gardom's. Lovely conditions- cold and bone dry. Such a cool crag. Seconded a couple of routes then mates turned up with pads so did Afro- nice problem. Then got on Eye of Faith- a route I seconded in 2010 and vowed to come back and cruise on the lead. This could well have happened at many points in the intervening 5.5 years but not on Sunday- a vicious circle of very little endurance and nervous overgripping on the sharp end meant I continuously screwd up the rockover. Seconded it then led a jamming VS that felt hard. 

Su- Walk round woods. Very tired. Ruminated on crap routes performance.

5 days on grit this week.  Decided to concentrate on building my bouldering "pyramid" rather than failing on harder problems I think I should be able to to do- definitely clawed back some ability. Routes are another story!

[shurt]

through top crux, new foothold for last clip worked well, then real fight through last easier moves to belay. Really pleased to do this - great route, first of the grade for me (8a+), felt like I had to fight, and also had to learn to use the rests rather than just sprinting through as is my usual tactic.

Well done, awesome effort!

Yep good effort. It's funny how after getting hardly any sleep via kids you can have a really good climbing day sometimes (not all the time I might add). I tend to go out with less expectations and am more relaxed...

[Duma]

I did wonder about the expectations thing - Rosea was pretty knackered too so neither of us were expecting much, maybe less self imposed pressure helped us both tick.

[Hugh]

Nice one Duma

STG: 7B.
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Mon: TCA, 4x4s.
Tue: Nowt.
Wed: Bloc, woody session, long reaches on moderately decent holds. Feeling strong.
Thu: FB (7/8s +10kg x 4) x 3. Success on 1, 2. Fail on rep 4 of 3. Sloper (7/8s +18kg x 4). Success.
Fri: Rings: 4x8 flyes, 4x5 dips, 4x6 inv rows. Knackered.
Sat: Run 4.5km. Even more knackered. Getting ill.
Sun: Neath. Good company and lovely day, but pretty poor session, lacking any power (not surprising after 4 weeks of strength stuff). Worked out the last move on Techtonics though, and repeated Brionified first go, so not all bad.

End of a four week block of strength focused work. Certainly feeling it; gradual (minor) improvement in fingerboarding results, so hopefully will transition well to power focused block. Rest week upcoming.

[Sasquatch]

I've been nursing an Achilles tendonitis issue for the last few months, and it's gotten progressively worse.  I finally realized I needed to deal with it as I couldn't wear climbing show anymore... So now I'm on to a solid 4 weeks of training without shoes.  Loads of campus and FB. Then reassess how the achilles is doing.

RE shoes - I've a pair of those Addidas-5:10 trainers - and I recon you could boulder on a board/wall pretty well in those as theyre pretty stiff - and they are very supportive of the achiles...

Thanks for the idea.  I may look into them as I start getting back to climbing and wearing shoes. . 
It's gotten to the point now where if I wear any shoes (well - almost any shoes) then I can barely walk the next morning.  I'm now stuck into flipflops for the next 4 weeks while campusing and FBing. 

[tomtom]

Front point those little footholds with ski boots!

[36chambers]

I did wonder about the expectations thing - Rosea was pretty knackered too so neither of us were expecting much, maybe less self imposed pressure helped us both tick.

I only ever seem to tick things when I don't expect to. I've replaced driving to the crag thinking "I'm going to absolutely crush today" with "I'm just going to have a look at the moves again". It seems to make a big difference.

[webbo]

I've been nursing an Achilles tendonitis issue for the last few months, and it's gotten progressively worse.  I finally realized I needed to deal with it as I couldn't wear climbing show anymore... So now I'm on to a solid 4 weeks of training without shoes.  Loads of campus and FB. Then reassess how the achilles is doing.

RE shoes - I've a pair of those Addidas-5:10 trainers - and I recon you could boulder on a board/wall pretty well in those as theyre pretty stiff - and they are very supportive of the achiles...

I had Achilles problems before mine ruptured. I think it was about 2 years ago  cut a V shape out of my climbing shoe Kantanas which took the pressure off. Seemed to work and it gradually settled down.


Well sort of
Thanks for the idea.  I may look into them as I start getting back to climbing and wearing shoes. . 
It's gotten to the point now where if I wear any shoes (well - almost any shoes) then I can barely walk the next morning.  I'm now stuck into flipflops for the next 4 weeks while campusing and FBing.

[lagerstarfish]

sounds like you're heading towards the hipster bare-foot crowd Webbo

[filz]

M: lunch fb max hangs with 3' rest. eve ring dips, front lever progression, ring rows and flies, squats, ring planks

T: ring planks, weighted pull ups, squat, front lever pull ups, headstands

W: climbing on Nibs board. Tired.

T: rest

F: fly to England
S-S: Bouldering in the Peak were I took a serious beating  .
On Saturday I went to Stanage. I tried steep traverse, green traverse, zippy's traverse and captain hook and did a couple of easier problems. On sunday I had no skin left and an aching shoulder. I first went to Curbar and after some easy warm up tried Gorilla Warfare. When it started to rain we moved to Burbage where I tried The Nose. I loved climbing in the Peak.
Overall I was happy with the trip. On some problems I was close and I would have probably climbed them with some more attempts, or having some skin left. The place is beautiful and I met a lot of nice people. For the next time I need to fix a few things in my tactic: do some proper warm up, more days of antihydral and improve on slopers.

[Nibile]

Lucky bastard.

[tommytwotone]

Late update from me!


Goal: 7 something sometime soon


M: Gym on lunch - 500m row then 4 x 25 swiss ball rollouts then 5 x 10 BW deadlifts
T: Nowt
W: Was meant to go to all but had to rush home as boiler packed in
T: Was meant to go to wall but had to wait in in the evening for the boiler fixer to come and sort it
F: Nowt
S: Spent 4hrs in the chair getting this done:





S: Recovering from Saturday!

[the_dom]

S: Spent 4hrs in the chair getting this done:

Epic! NIce one.

[shurt]

 

Lucky bastard.

You need to get off the ab wheel and get on a flight