S. Core and mobe in a.m. Tremeirchion in p.m. Sent 36 Chambers quickly, 2nd go after warming up. YYFY! Felt airy as I'd given my girlfriend two of my three pads. Tried to pad out my remaining pad with jacket and sweater underneath to cushion the fall a bit more:
Quote from: petejh on April 24, 2016, 09:33:31 pmS. Core and mobe in a.m. Tremeirchion in p.m. Sent 36 Chambers quickly, 2nd go after warming up. YYFY! Felt airy as I'd given my girlfriend two of my three pads. Tried to pad out my remaining pad with jacket and sweater underneath to cushion the fall a bit more:Effort - must be particularly sweet coming back from injury.Went there once and John Welford failed on it (and then his knee imploded)
Clearly it is tantalisingly close now.
through top crux, new foothold for last clip worked well, then real fight through last easier moves to belay. Really pleased to do this - great route, first of the grade for me (8a+), felt like I had to fight, and also had to learn to use the rests rather than just sprinting through as is my usual tactic.
T. Circuits/intevals at works - 20x 1min on, 2min off. Is this a good strategy?
STG - current board project. Go and try the route at least once before Summer. Mon - board climbing. A bit tired from the Sunday journey. Tried two new problems that I recently set. One is absolutely brilliant. Underclings galore. Ab-wheel, two singles with full stretch pause: first one 1'20", second one 55".
Dunno how far back to go as I haven't posted up since March 20th...Went on vacation with my wife and daughter for 2 weeks. Got in four days of climbing outside. A good day in Leavenworth where I cleaned up a variety of problems I had tried in the past but not completed. A short sport climbing day in clear creek canyon, co where I did 4 sport routes. A short (1.5 hr) session at the ogden boulders in Utah where I sessioned about 40 problem in 2 hrs. I got back to town and did a moonboard session with friends. Then headed out of town for work, where I managed to squeeze in a couple of days of climbing - mostly a good day at Yankee Jim near Bozeman MT. I've been nursing an Achilles tendonitis issue for the last few months, and it's gotten progressively worse. I finally realized I needed to deal with it as I couldn't wear climbing show anymore... So now I'm on to a solid 4 weeks of training without shoes. Loads of campus and FB. Then reassess how the achilles is doing. EDIT: and the work front is crazy. looking at 50-60+ hrs/wk for the next 2-3 months... I hope I don't go insane
It's the send the world's waiting for
Quote from: Nibile on April 25, 2016, 10:58:34 amSTG - current board project. Go and try the route at least once before Summer. Mon - board climbing. A bit tired from the Sunday journey. Tried two new problems that I recently set. One is absolutely brilliant. Underclings galore. Ab-wheel, two singles with full stretch pause: first one 1'20", second one 55". I read this and thought you did it at full extension on the toes.... I was in complete shock.
Quote from: Duma on April 25, 2016, 12:12:05 amthrough top crux, new foothold for last clip worked well, then real fight through last easier moves to belay. Really pleased to do this - great route, first of the grade for me (8a+), felt like I had to fight, and also had to learn to use the rests rather than just sprinting through as is my usual tactic.Well done, awesome effort!
Quote from: Sasquatch on April 26, 2016, 07:19:05 amI've been nursing an Achilles tendonitis issue for the last few months, and it's gotten progressively worse. I finally realized I needed to deal with it as I couldn't wear climbing show anymore... So now I'm on to a solid 4 weeks of training without shoes. Loads of campus and FB. Then reassess how the achilles is doing. RE shoes - I've a pair of those Addidas-5:10 trainers - and I recon you could boulder on a board/wall pretty well in those as theyre pretty stiff - and they are very supportive of the achiles...
I've been nursing an Achilles tendonitis issue for the last few months, and it's gotten progressively worse. I finally realized I needed to deal with it as I couldn't wear climbing show anymore... So now I'm on to a solid 4 weeks of training without shoes. Loads of campus and FB. Then reassess how the achilles is doing.
I did wonder about the expectations thing - Rosea was pretty knackered too so neither of us were expecting much, maybe less self imposed pressure helped us both tick.
Quote from: tomtom on April 26, 2016, 07:22:42 amQuote from: Sasquatch on April 26, 2016, 07:19:05 amI've been nursing an Achilles tendonitis issue for the last few months, and it's gotten progressively worse. I finally realized I needed to deal with it as I couldn't wear climbing show anymore... So now I'm on to a solid 4 weeks of training without shoes. Loads of campus and FB. Then reassess how the achilles is doing. RE shoes - I've a pair of those Addidas-5:10 trainers - and I recon you could boulder on a board/wall pretty well in those as theyre pretty stiff - and they are very supportive of the achiles...I had Achilles problems before mine ruptured. I think it was about 2 years ago cut a V shape out of my climbing shoe Kantanas which took the pressure off. Seemed to work and it gradually settled down.Well sort of Thanks for the idea. I may look into them as I start getting back to climbing and wearing shoes. . It's gotten to the point now where if I wear any shoes (well - almost any shoes) then I can barely walk the next morning. I'm now stuck into flipflops for the next 4 weeks while campusing and FBing.
S: Spent 4hrs in the chair getting this done:
Lucky bastard.
Quote from: Nibile on April 28, 2016, 03:54:20 pmLucky bastard.You need to get off the ab wheel and get on a flight
M: Lunch: 50 Crunches30 Side Crunches (15 each side)5 x 5sec L-Hangs5 Leg raises (Feet to bar)10 Knee tucks3 x 10 Dorsal Raises5 x 5sec L-Hangs5 Leg raises (Feet to bar)10 Knee tucks30 Side Crunches (15 each side)T: Lunch:3 x 10 Press-Ups3 x 20 Sec L-Hangs3 x 10 Shoulder Rotations3 x 10 Dorsal RaisesEve: Plas Power - 3 x 5 min LI AeroCap45' Board - 6C+ Repeat, Had about 15 goes on my current project timing 3 - 5 mins rests inbetween goes. Managed it in the end after really digging deep. About 7A+.W: Lunch - Stretching and AntagsT: Lunch - Stretching and AntagsEve: Dinbren - Back on my old 7c project "Flowers are for the Dead" after speaking to a few people who have done it and asking for beta It looks like I was doing it way differently to others they were sort of direct/slight left of the 2nd/3rd bolt and I was over right. Tried new sequence and it felt way easier than what I had previously been trying but made the moves higher up a little harder. Did a good link from 2nd bolt to the top and had a redpoint at the end of the sesh as I couldn't figure out how to get the 3rd bolt clipped.F: Lunch - Stretching and AntagsS: RestS: Dinbren - Split a tip warming up putting the clips in on my project. First redpoint I took a chunk out of my palm on the big undercut at the start. Tried to tape it, tape slipped off, tried again and just felt too tired. Worked the moves in small links and refined some beta.Route fitness is terrible at the moment.