[nai]

Oi Luke, a new baby's supposed to slow you down, you should be trotting out excuses not listing multiple successes

[Luke Owens]

Oi Luke, a new baby's supposed to slow you down, you should be trotting out excuses not listing multiple successes

  No chance, I'm more motivated than ever. Especially as my eldest is now psyched for wall too!

I seem to be doing pretty well considering I haven't had a full nights sleep in over 2 weeks...

[andy popp]

Oi Luke, a new baby's supposed to slow you down, you should be trotting out excuses not listing multiple successes

Nick Dixon did the second ascent of Indian Face just a few weeks after the birth of his second.

[Nibile]

One of my best friends and training addict started climbing way harder after having a child. I think it's due to being profoundly happy.

[Murph]

I climb harder since Becoming a parent. For me it was because time suddenly becomes so precious the idea of wasting it by going out and pottering about having a nice time becomes, frankly, ridiculous. Much more attraction in getting (relatively) strong and making the limited outdoors time count.

[Muenchener]

'zactly. I have at most two weekends free per month, if I'm lucky with the weather, so when I am outdoors on dry rock I want to be trying hard.

[Wood FT]

Oi Luke, a new baby's supposed to slow you down, you should be trotting out excuses not listing multiple successes

Nick Dixon did the second ascent of Indian Face just a few weeks after the birth of his second.

I don't know how I feel about that, being honest

[Luke Owens]

I climb harder since Becoming a parent. For me it was because time suddenly becomes so precious the idea of wasting it by going out and pottering about having a nice time becomes, frankly, ridiculous. Much more attraction in getting (relatively) strong and making the limited outdoors time count.

I agree, I know plenty of people who don't train, they get out a lot because they have no family but they have no focus.

My biggest progress in climbing was the year following our first being born.

Now we have 2 I feel even more focused and don't like to think I'm wasting any time. It's a good feeling! Plus what Nibs said, being really happy helps, as does having an encouraging other half.

Nick Dixon did the second ascent of Indian Face just a few weeks after the birth of his second.

I don't know how I feel about that, being honest

+1, I've never been into dangerous trad anyway but the thought of doing something like that with two kids at home seems pretty crazy. Would be interesting to know how that conversation went with his wife!

Personally I'm into trying hard, not trying to die...

[Coops_13]

Nick Dixon did the second ascent of Indian Face just a few weeks after the birth of his second.

I don't know how I feel about that, being honest

+1, I've never been into dangerous trad anyway but the thought of doing something like that with two kids at home seems pretty crazy. Would be interesting to know how that conversation went with his wife!

Personally I'm into trying hard, not trying to die...

Probably told her as little as possible...

[T_B]

I'm sure it's possible to climb harder after you have kids if you're a selfish git with a doormat as a wife. Or maybe if you have a nanny? Or if you don't have to work for a living perhaps? Or if you didn't climb much before and/or were pretty sh*t.

Most people that I know who have had kids enjoy doing family stuff and now don't climb so much, or as hard. They tend to get into other sports where they can make some progress rather than simply tread water.

You might find a few exceptions or people like me who have bouldered harder since kids due to bouldering 90% of the time, compared to tradding 50%, sport 40% and bouldering 10%. But generally speaking, kids will not help you improve your climbing.

As for dangerous stuff, it's a personal thing, but I can't help thinking someone is a selfish wanker if they do dangerous stuff whilst supposedly being responsible for children. What is considered dangerous is relative, but dangerous trad or mountaineering hmmm.

[SA Chris]

Probably told her as little as possible...

I've taken that approach in the past, but in his case hard one to explain afterwards, as it was not exactly one you can keep to yourself.

[Coops_13]

Probably told her as little as possible...

I've taken that approach in the past, but in his case hard one to explain afterwards, as it was not exactly one you can keep to yourself.

True, and presumably being married to someone capable of climbing Indian Face, they probably know a thing or two about climbing...

[Muenchener]

I'm sure it's possible to climb harder after you have kids ... if you ... before ... were pretty sh*t.

Precisely my strategy.

[andy popp]

Jeez, I hope I got that story about Nick right! Btw, I posted it to show simply what is possible.

[shark]

I posted it to show simply what is possible.

So the point still stands even if you made it up! 

FWIW my climbing went down the pan when I started a family but I think other factors such as starting a business at the same time.

I think it is harder to maintain trad ability because you don't have as much time and most? feel an extra level of responsibility or at least an extra excuse. Sport climbing and even more so bouldering are easier to maintain a level because sessions are shorter and recovery time longer so you can slot it into family life better. Living close to crags is a massive help in this respect. 

[36chambers]

Can you not just strap the baby to you when you're deadhanging and as the baby grows you also get stronger??

[shark]

Can you not just strap the baby to you when you're deadhanging and as the baby grows you also get stronger??

http://physiqonomics.com/the-myth-of-milo/

[dave]

Perfectly possible to climb harder after having kids, if some or more of the following are true, the more the better:
- you don't leave having kids till you're relatively old
- you weren't some kind of child prodigy who peaked at 17 and then slid downhill.
- you climbed/trained/ate in a lackadaisical fashion before kids, and can be more focussed/methodical afterwards.
- reasonably understanding other half, or at least not be a completely pussywhipped motherfucker.
- not have a job that requires you work a ridiculous number of hours a week/evenings/weekends.
- have got good local crags.
- go bouldering a lot.
- be prepared to go out on your own a lot, often at unsociable times.
- have some mates in a similar boat, mutual motivation.
- have absolutely no interest in participating in any other sports, especially cycling.

[tommytwotone]

Perfectly possible to climb harder after having kids, if some or more of the following are true, the more the better:
- reasonably understanding other half, or at least not be a completely pussywhipped motherfucker.
- not have a job that requires you work a ridiculous number of hours a week/evenings/weekends.

It was all looking relatively positively for me for a minute there.

[r-man]

Can you not just strap the baby to you when you're deadhanging and as the baby grows you also get stronger??

http://physiqonomics.com/the-myth-of-milo/

Except he does say that during the first 6-12months you make big gains. The Internet says calfs take about 15months to mature. That's just a little longer than the big gains period. So it seems possible that milo wouldn't have been hitting plateaus whilst the calf was growing. That doesn't mean it's a true story, but I don't think this article has busted the myth.

[SA Chris]

Perfectly possible to climb harder after having kids, if some or more of the following are true, the more the better:
- you don't leave having kids till you're relatively old
- you weren't some kind of child prodigy who peaked at 17 and then slid downhill.
- you climbed/trained/ate in a lackadaisical fashion before kids, and can be more focussed/methodical afterwards.
- reasonably understanding other half, or at least not be a completely pussywhipped motherfucker.
- not have a job that requires you work a ridiculous number of hours a week/evenings/weekends.
- have got good local crags.
- go bouldering a lot.
- be prepared to go out on your own a lot, often at unsociable times.
- have some mates in a similar boat, mutual motivation.
- have absolutely no interest in participating in any other sports, especially cycling.

All sounds about right, apart from last two, usually billy no mates, carrying a lot of pads.
Fortunately other half has stopped climbing and got into endurance type stuff (cycling, running (doing London Marathon this weekend) and swimming), so got good credits for getting out climbing/surfing/skiing.

Having willing / able grandparents nearby and being able to work flexible / reduced hours help too.

[shark]

Perfectly possible to climb harder after having kids, if some or more of the following are true, the more the better:
- you don't leave having kids till you're relatively old
- you weren't some kind of child prodigy who peaked at 17 and then slid downhill.
- you climbed/trained/ate in a lackadaisical fashion before kids, and can be more focussed/methodical afterwards.
- reasonably understanding other half, or at least not be a completely pussywhipped motherfucker.
- not have a job that requires you work a ridiculous number of hours a week/evenings/weekends.
- have got good local crags.
- go bouldering a lot.
- be prepared to go out on your own a lot, often at unsociable times.
- have some mates in a similar boat, mutual motivation.
- have absolutely no interest in participating in any other sports, especially cycling.

The ten commandments. Is your surname MacLeod ? 

I scored ten out of ten (assuming 34 isn't relatively old).

Watch this space.

[duncan]

Perfectly possible to climb harder after having kids, if some or more of the following are true, the more the better:

- you don't leave having kids till you're relatively old NO
- you weren't some kind of child prodigy who peaked at 17 and then slid downhill. YES
- you climbed/trained/ate in a lackadaisical fashion before kids, and can be more focussed/methodical afterwards. YES
- reasonably understanding other half. YES
- not have a job that requires you work a ridiculous number of hours a week/evenings/weekends. YES
- have got good local crags. NO
- go bouldering a lot. Ahem...does indoors count?
- be prepared to go out on your own a lot, often at unsociable times. YES
- have some mates in a similar boat, mutual motivation. SOMEWHAT
- have absolutely no interest in participating in any other sports, especially cycling. YES!

That's a good list.

I always considered it was crucial to have at least two from 4, 5, and 6.

[Murph]

Perfectly possible to climb harder after having kids, if some or more of the following are true, the more the better:
- you don't leave having kids till you're relatively old not sure but 35 wasn't exactly young
- you weren't some kind of child prodigy who peaked at 17 and then slid downhill. YES
- you climbed/trained/ate in a lackadaisical fashion before kids, and can be more focussed/methodical afterwards.YES 100% this
- reasonably understanding other half, or at least not be a completely pussywhipped motherfucker.YES
- not have a job that requires you work a ridiculous number of hours a week/evenings/weekends.YES
- have got good local crags.YES
- go bouldering a lot.YES
- be prepared to go out on your own a lot, often at unsociable times.YES on my own. Could invest lantern time for better results I guess.
- have some mates in a similar boat, mutual motivation.YES
- have absolutely no interest in participating in any other sports, especially cycling.YES

Great list. I think #3 - the relative shiteness is an important one. Can't see I'd have upped my game from something that was actually hard.

[SA Chris]

I don't think I will ever surpass the level at which I climbed routes in my late 20s to mid 30s (too scared to do any hard trad and no time to develop required AncapCapPow whatever to climb harder sport than I used to) but my "training" used to revolve around arsing about at the wall on a rope and doing a few problems once a week in winter, and was always a bit of a punter when it came to hard bouldering, so that's what I tend to concentrate on at the moment.