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Building a small home board (Read 16344 times)

roblaird

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Building a small home board
April 17, 2016, 01:02:04 am
Has anyone built a board at home with limited height (around 2 metres?).

I like the idea of it, but I've only really got space in a garage to play with. It's about 2m high, 3m wide and 6m long.

If anyone's built one in a similar space, advice and photos would be helpful!

Cheers

Rob

lagerstarfish

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#1 Re: Building a small home board
April 17, 2016, 07:23:23 am
height wise, that's enough for a 2.4m ply board (standard size is 2.4 x 1.2) at 45 degrees plus a 30cm kick board (according to my bleary application of Pythagoras)

length wise, that's a decent space - depends how much space you need to leave for the door and what else you need to use the garage for

some ideas here

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3260.0.html

Probes

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#2 Re: Building a small home board
April 17, 2016, 01:00:48 pm
I've just put this little rig up at the back of the workshop with similar limited space, its 2.4m long, workshop is about 2.15m high. Made it adjustable so it goes from 45 to 60 degree. Its now lashed with holds and a fb at the top. With blinkers and a lot of psyche it serves its purpose..
https://www.facebook.com/crusher.holds/videos/vb.100000912646468/1212241752149568/?type=3&theater
« Last Edit: April 17, 2016, 01:08:21 pm by Probes »

chris20

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#3 Re: Building a small home board
April 17, 2016, 02:14:05 pm
I made a board to fit a low garage I had a few years ago.  It was two lots of 8ft x 4ft ply but cut down to about 7 ft to fit the width of the garage.  No kick board but would have been better with one.  Think it was 45 degrees.

10112010030 by 123chris20, on Flickr

a dense loner

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#4 Re: Building a small home board
April 17, 2016, 05:21:03 pm
My boards 2450 x 1500, with an added 250 free space at the bottom of board. This rules out any chance of Bristol heels. It's 42 degrees and only wooden holds for hands, footholds are resin. These are basically in two stages, bottom of board and just over knee height. I've used 5 yellow holds and 4 red, so you use just yellow in the morning and just red in the evening. Sounds strange but works really well.
Don't put a kickboard on

roblaird

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#5 Re: Building a small home board
April 18, 2016, 07:53:42 am
Cheers for the replies. I was planning to use a kickboard, but I suppose without it the problems would be harder, which is never a bad thing.

On closer inspection, as the garage is in a block, the separating walls walls don't look great, so I'm looking at doing something freestanding, around 40-45 degrees.


sjw

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#6 Re: Building a small home board
April 18, 2016, 09:07:23 am
The issue with kickboards on small boards, in my experience, is that you can get most of the way up the board with your feet still on it, making things easier, or they're too small and your heels dab. I ended up taking all of the footholds off mine so that every problem starts on the 45° bit. What would Malc do?

In other words, what Dense said.

dave

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#7 Re: Building a small home board
April 18, 2016, 09:12:03 am
Yep, if you stick too big a kickboard on a short 45deg board it effectively becomes a 40 deg board.

If I was building a woody again I would have a very short kickboard (as otherwise the bottom 6" of the board is unusable anyway and just have a handful of very poor footholds on the kickboard for warming up etc.

monkoffunk

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#8 Re: Building a small home board
April 18, 2016, 12:03:21 pm
Sure this all depends on space and available structures etc, but what are thoughts on supportive struts like in above picture vs a more suspended wall like you might see in a wall. Always thought supportive struts might be a bit restrictive and might fall onto them. Issue people have had?

Durbs

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#9 Re: Building a small home board
April 18, 2016, 12:31:02 pm
Sounds about the same size as my soon-to-be-converted garage....
I'm having to change my garage door to a roller one so it can be opened without taking up space.

In my mind, the LH side of the walls is a vertical traverse wall, RH side has a 45 degree and a "funky corner mini roof thing" (TM) to make things interesting. Debating putting a ceiling over it too to get maximum climbing space.

This may or may not be viewable:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6tbU0npdpUO-powerful-blorr



remus

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#10 Re: Building a small home board
April 18, 2016, 12:35:00 pm
With regards to struts, I've found it doesn't make a lot of difference on a small board. If you're going to hit the struts you'll hit the wall anyway, so might as well stick them in as it's probably a bit easier in terms of construction.

chris20

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#11 Re: Building a small home board
April 18, 2016, 12:36:54 pm
Always thought supportive struts might be a bit restrictive and might fall onto them. Issue people have had?

Both of my previous walls have had strut supports and I've never had a problem falling into them

Lund

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#12 Re: Building a small home board
April 18, 2016, 03:38:38 pm
Always thought supportive struts might be a bit restrictive and might fall onto them. Issue people have had?

Both of my previous walls have had strut supports and I've never had a problem falling into them

Me neither.  With a small and steep board, to get the most out of it you're not flinging yourself about doing massive swings off jugs: no funny foot business, it's all about staying front on and getting strong on as small holds as possible.  Massive sideways pings into struts means you're only cheating yourself.

Nibile

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#13 Re: Building a small home board
April 18, 2016, 08:16:01 pm
Me neither.
+1 for front-on, no tricks action.

Stabbsy

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#14 Re: Building a small home board
October 18, 2019, 11:36:28 am
Just resurrecting this old thread. I'm looking to build a board in the shed - about 8 foot x 8 foot, 45 degrees (ish) plus some fingerboards over the door. Original plan had been to do it myself while on paternity leave, but had a delay in getting the shed in so I'm already back in work. If I stick with doing it myself, I doubt I'll have time until spring, so I'm considering getting someone to do it for me. Can anyone recommend someone in Sheffield area that would be able to do it?

SA Chris

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#15 Re: Building a small home board
October 18, 2019, 01:53:06 pm
Original plan had been to do it myself while on paternity leave

So congratulations are in order?

tomtom

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#16 Re: Building a small home board
October 18, 2019, 03:44:38 pm
Just resurrecting this old thread. I'm looking to build a board in the shed - about 8 foot x 8 foot, 45 degrees (ish) plus some fingerboards over the door. Original plan had been to do it myself while on paternity leave, but had a delay in getting the shed in so I'm already back in work. If I stick with doing it myself, I doubt I'll have time until spring, so I'm considering getting someone to do it for me. Can anyone recommend someone in Sheffield area that would be able to do it?

Get in touch with Paul (I think?) from Crusher holds. He's done a few I think - including a home board for Moose. He's based in the NW - but sure he could visit/measure up/make at home/deliver etc...? I think moose was very happy...

http://crusherholds.co.uk/

moose

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#17 Re: Building a small home board
October 18, 2019, 04:21:21 pm
This my miniature self-torture rig (40 deg overhanging, looks slightly less steep on the photo than in life):


Stabbsy

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#18 Re: Building a small home board
October 18, 2019, 04:22:55 pm
So congratulations are in order?
Thanks, it's a lovely shed - 12 x 8, we're both very proud...

Get in touch with Paul (I think?) from Crusher holds. He's done a few I think - including a home board for Moose. He's based in the NW - but sure he could visit/measure up/make at home/deliver etc...? I think moose was very happy...

http://crusherholds.co.uk/


Thanks Tom. Yep, I'd wondered about Probes. I was going to give him a try if I didn't get any local recommendations on here.

highrepute

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#19 Re: Building a small home board
October 19, 2019, 09:02:10 am
I may know someone Sheffield based. I'll just check with them then pm you.

Betajunkie

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#20 Re: Building a small home board
October 19, 2019, 11:14:34 am
I would be interested if possible please.

Probes

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#21 Re: Building a small home board
October 23, 2019, 05:39:00 pm
So congratulations are in order?
Thanks, it's a lovely shed - 12 x 8, we're both very proud...

Get in touch with Paul (I think?) from Crusher holds. He's done a few I think - including a home board for Moose. He's based in the NW - but sure he could visit/measure up/make at home/deliver etc...? I think moose was very happy...

http://crusherholds.co.uk/


Thanks Tom. Yep, I'd wondered about Probes. I was going to give him a try if I didn't get any local recommendations on here.

Cheers for the heads up Tom. I'd be struggling tbh to fit this in, with the run up to xmas. If you're still unsorted by then, you could give me a shout early in the new year..   nice one.

Coops_13

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#22 Re: Building a small home board
October 23, 2019, 05:42:56 pm
This is me on a mate's board of similar dimensions if you want another view of one:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bq5hV_chXUS

Paul B

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#23 Re: Building a small home board
October 23, 2019, 07:18:39 pm
Cheers for the heads up Tom. I'd be struggling tbh to fit this in, with the run up to xmas. If you're still unsorted by then, you could give me a shout early in the new year..   nice one.

Another happy customer here. I was also talking to another friend who has a Probes board and he said the same.

I was just adding some more holds to mine today (smaller, classic EP, although I've attached them 'dirty euro' style):
https://www.instagram.com/p/B3-G8fZDsyX/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

Mainly it gets used for warming up for fingerboarding and doing those aero sessions that would simply be rude at peak times in a wall (I'm looking at you Snr Barros).

Stabbsy

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#24 Re: Building a small home board
October 24, 2019, 02:47:37 pm
Thanks all. Potentially found someone in Sheffield (cheers for the info James). I’ll try Probes in the new year if things don’t work out.

 

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