Any thoughts on a good solution? I still want to sort this out as I'm very attached to the crag. The current single rusty top bolt on Rumble for example does somewhat spoil the experience.
Or something more radical like max wall being stripped to protect the rest of the dale?
I too was keen to sort things out at the top here but after discussing matters at the time with Henry F decided better of it. Is there less being shouted at these days when climbing there?
Often in the RRG they leave huge hanging chains at similar looking crags, it's not pretty at all!
At WCJ cornice what is needed is a single bolt at the official/natural finish below poor rock and grass etc.You can sit on this bolt and enjoy your victory and gather your self together. Nothing should be left on this bolt. You can now jump/climb down to a threadable bolt below the roof. This is easily done for some of the routes but the big scary ones can have a reverse dogging bolt. I have sometimes just used a dirty old hanger for this very purpose. It can even be positioned in a way that makes it difficult to clip on the lead so anybody with an ounce of intelligence will know what it's for.So you just lower off the penultimate bolt that would ideally be a resin or the new threadable hangers. If it's a good bolt in good rock then just the one will do no need to have a double bolt belay is there?
QuoteI too was keen to sort things out at the top here but after discussing matters at the time with Henry F decided better of it. Is there less being shouted at these days when climbing there?Re: WCJ Cornice, it has been confirmed with the PDNPA to lie on CRoW land, and the bailiff has been informed. So, no, there should be no being shouting at. However using a power drill is always going to be sensitive - stick to quiet times, limit your drilling to an absolute minimum, be prepared to wait until any passers by are out of earshot.
QuoteI too was keen to sort things out at the top here but after discussing matters at the time with Henry F decided better of it. Is there less being shouted at these days when climbing there?Re: WCJ Cornice, it has been confirmed with the PDNPA to lie on CRoW land, and the bailiff has been informed. So, no, there should be no being shouting at. However using a power drill is always going to be sensitive - stick to quiet times, limit your drilling to an absolute minimum, be prepared to wait until any passers by are out of earshot. QuoteOften in the RRG they leave huge hanging chains at similar looking crags, it's not pretty at all!Semi-serious suggestion - how about something like an 18" chain covered with plastic ivy?
Quote from: Johnny Brown on April 15, 2016, 11:11:31 amQuoteI too was keen to sort things out at the top here but after discussing matters at the time with Henry F decided better of it. Is there less being shouted at these days when climbing there?Re: WCJ Cornice, it has been confirmed with the PDNPA to lie on CRoW land, and the bailiff has been informed. So, no, there should be no being shouting at. However using a power drill is always going to be sensitive - stick to quiet times, limit your drilling to an absolute minimum, be prepared to wait until any passers by are out of earshot. QuoteOften in the RRG they leave huge hanging chains at similar looking crags, it's not pretty at all!Semi-serious suggestion - how about something like an 18" chain covered with plastic ivy?we could disguise the bolts as mushrooms I actually think the ivy thing is a good idea
Just tie a sprig of plastic ivy to each bolt.
This sounds good to me. My only slight concern is that the threadable bolts need to not just jam the rope on another lip, I'll have a look if the crag ever dries this year!