[kc]

I painted the bolts on mecca before they went in to a dull grey. The crabs will chip the paint off on the inside but most of the visible surface has retained the paint. Plate hangers are the ones that shine the most so that is why we use the bolt product welded bar hangers along with resin bolts. As long as you don't go attaching daft ornaments to them I don't thing there's alot of point in trying to paint them.

[Paul B]

Any thoughts on a good solution? I still want to sort this out as I'm very attached to the crag. The current single rusty top bolt on Rumble for example does somewhat spoil the experience.

I too was keen to sort things out at the top here but after discussing matters at the time with Henry F decided better of it. Is there less being shouted at these days when climbing there?

Bolts/lower offs around the final lip don't work (even if the rock is good enough). I found this out trying to get down off the direct on Monster, I didn't budge an inch; you're left with the imperfect jumping/down climbing scenario as KC suggests.

Often in the RRG they leave huge hanging chains at similar looking crags, it's not pretty at all!

[ashtond6]

I think the odd one at wcj cornice works, it's also almost a novelty

However, I don't think this is a reasonable option for all the peak routes in cheedale and the tor

However I don't know a better option at this time other than 2 rings. What about 2 glue ins?

Or something more radical like max wall being stripped to protect the rest of the dale?

[SEDur]

Or something more radical like max wall being stripped to protect the rest of the dale?

Would a couple afternoons with an angle grinder only cause more problems?

Surely the best solution is continual regeneration of routes over a very long period of time, implementing nice dull looking glue in bolts that you can reach with a clipstick but are high enough to be out of direct view (though this may be of limited practicality)?

[Johnny Brown]

I too was keen to sort things out at the top here but after discussing matters at the time with Henry F decided better of it. Is there less being shouted at these days when climbing there?

Re: WCJ Cornice, it has been confirmed with the PDNPA to lie on CRoW land, and the bailiff has been informed. So, no, there should be no being shouting at. However using a power drill is always going to be sensitive - stick to quiet times, limit your drilling to an absolute minimum, be prepared to wait until any passers by are out of earshot.

Often in the RRG they leave huge hanging chains at similar looking crags, it's not pretty at all!

Semi-serious suggestion - how about something like an 18" chain covered with plastic ivy?

[AlistairB]

At WCJ cornice what is needed is a single bolt at the official/natural finish below poor rock and grass etc.
You can sit on this bolt and enjoy your victory and gather your self together. Nothing should be left on this bolt. You can now jump/climb down to a  threadable bolt below the roof. This is easily done for some of the routes but the big scary ones can have a reverse dogging bolt. I have sometimes just used a dirty old hanger for this very purpose. It can even be positioned in a way that makes it difficult to clip on the lead so anybody with an ounce of intelligence will know what it's for.
So you just lower off the penultimate bolt that would ideally be a resin or the new threadable hangers. If it's a good bolt in good rock then just the one will do no need to have a double bolt belay is there?

This sounds good to me. My only slight concern is that the threadable bolts need to not just jam the rope on another lip, I'll have a look if the crag ever dries this year!

I too was keen to sort things out at the top here but after discussing matters at the time with Henry F decided better of it. Is there less being shouted at these days when climbing there?

Re: WCJ Cornice, it has been confirmed with the PDNPA to lie on CRoW land, and the bailiff has been informed. So, no, there should be no being shouting at. However using a power drill is always going to be sensitive - stick to quiet times, limit your drilling to an absolute minimum, be prepared to wait until any passers by are out of earshot.

I was there quite a bit last year and after we set in motion the CRoW thing there was no hassle anymore. I agree that any drilling wants to be done discretely regardless though.

[Wood FT]

I too was keen to sort things out at the top here but after discussing matters at the time with Henry F decided better of it. Is there less being shouted at these days when climbing there?

Re: WCJ Cornice, it has been confirmed with the PDNPA to lie on CRoW land, and the bailiff has been informed. So, no, there should be no being shouting at. However using a power drill is always going to be sensitive - stick to quiet times, limit your drilling to an absolute minimum, be prepared to wait until any passers by are out of earshot.

Often in the RRG they leave huge hanging chains at similar looking crags, it's not pretty at all!

Semi-serious suggestion - how about something like an 18" chain covered with plastic ivy?

we could disguise the bolts as mushrooms


I actually think the ivy thing is a good idea

[Duncan campbell]

I too was keen to sort things out at the top here but after discussing matters at the time with Henry F decided better of it. Is there less being shouted at these days when climbing there?

Re: WCJ Cornice, it has been confirmed with the PDNPA to lie on CRoW land, and the bailiff has been informed. So, no, there should be no being shouting at. However using a power drill is always going to be sensitive - stick to quiet times, limit your drilling to an absolute minimum, be prepared to wait until any passers by are out of earshot.

Often in the RRG they leave huge hanging chains at similar looking crags, it's not pretty at all!

Semi-serious suggestion - how about something like an 18" chain covered with plastic ivy?

we could disguise the bolts as mushrooms


I actually think the ivy thing is a good idea

If you're gonna start doing this sort of thing at least disguise it with something cool like a snake

[dave]

Just tie a sprig of plastic ivy to each bolt.

[Wood FT]

Just tie a sprig of plastic ivy to each bolt.

Well onsight

[lagerstarfish]

cammo duct tape?

[kc]

This sounds good to me. My only slight concern is that the threadable bolts need to not just jam the rope on another lip, I'll have a look if the crag ever dries this year!

It should not be a problem. You could even put the lower off in the roof to give a bit of clearance.
I dont think you have to worry too much about discussing bolts over there. Just remove all the crabs and insitu draws.

whilst on the subject of the Cornice, there are a collection of easier routes on the left that were initially bolted by persons unknown. They were then quickly climbed by Zippy but he did not invest any time in them. So we now have a set of oddly bolted, non stainless routes, some with contrived loose starts.
Would be good if someone could sort these out as they could be quite good. 

[Paul B]

Nice work with the CRoW stuff!

Those chains have other issues in that the rock around the bolts seems to get quite damaged. I'm not sure why, perhaps strong winds (and it is softer)?

Short ones in the roof might be the best option if you were to go down this line but then again why would that be better than just bolts as KC suggests?

[tomtom]

Distract all attention from the bolted areas by resin bolting a cheery wind chime high up and far out of reach on a chossy unused nearby buttress....