[mark20]

OK thanks, and you're probably right about Isla Grace not being ideal
Other than the usual suspects these are worth a look
Houndkirk is close with a couple of things in the 6s and Made in Sheffield is a great 7A+/B (probably nearer 7B since a hold got a bit worse? Though I've not tried it since)
Loafstone at Curbar, again good 6s and top notch 7A prow/arete thing 'Bread and Circuses'
The prows at Tegness quarries that Nath and Emlyn did are good 6C from stands 7A+ from sit
Priddock Wood is a lovely spot, but go before the bracken is up

[36chambers]

STG: Heal knee, wrist, fingers....

Relatively productive week on the healing myself front, though have been shut down by a virus for the last 4 days... Haven't eaten much at all, lost 9 Kg since before I went to Slovenia 

At least now you're lighter you will be able to give your wrist and fingers a chance


I've been away so I'm agglomerating a few weeks:
STG: ?? 
MTG: ??
LTG: 8B

w/c  21/03/16
Waiting for fingertips to recover for Font

w/c 28/03/16
Font, considering the forecast a surprisingly good week. Climbed every day bar one, albeit mainly half days. The Font spell is broken and the low 7's felt easy. This is certainly due to not thrashing myself on the first day.   

w/c 04/04/16
non climbing holiday in Devon. Nipped out to Bonehill rocks for a day. Beautiful place, grim rock. It's like crimping a cheese grater.  Ripple Wall 6b and Arkem 7b were both pretty good.

Currently at a loose end with regards to STG and MTG. Suppose it's time to do some Spring cleaning before the summer connies kick in.

[duncan]

S - Good session at the Westway.  All the greens and a few reds to warm up.  Then did three whites I couldn't do on Wednesday after a few tries.  Recovery time between goes is really improving.  Tried a couple of the blacks (V4-V5) and did the moves but couldn't link. Just three whites left to do (slab, cave and arête).

Feeling good physically and really enjoying the climbing at the wall.  Pretty fucking psyched TBH.    

  Must have just missed you.

Well done T_B.


STG: rehab. finger & knee
MTG: tbc according to above.
LTG: the usual LH+F.

M - Knee exercises: squats, step-ups.
T - Westway Routes to 5+: ~160m as 4 sets of 40m. Shoulder maintenance.
W - Knee exercises.
T -  Westway Routes to 6a: ~130m as 3 sets of 40m.
F - Shoulder maintenance.
S - Westway Routes to 6a: ~200m as 5 sets of 40m. Good session.
S  - 10 miles stroll around Richmond Park. Knee feeling it after but good to get out. Shoulder maintenance.

Good week, knee 70% better, finger coming along more slowly. Best bit of the week was sister telling me she's bought a chi-chi flat in Edinburgh! I see more Scotland in the future. Next best bits were confirming trip to Picos in August (Naranjo round 2) and outward flight for Ceuse in June (no return as yet, might just stay the summer...  ). I predict a spanking but it’ll be fun.   

Time to do some proper climbing.

[Coops_13]

Currently at a loose end with regards to STG and MTG. Suppose it's time to do some Spring cleaning before the summer connies kick in.

Get on some limestone sport?!?

[csl]

Feeling good physically and really enjoying the climbing at the wall.  Pretty fucking psyched TBH.    

Awesome! Good progress!

[filz]

STG: Train for peak at the end of april.
MTG: Consolidate 7a
LTG: 7c

M: body tension excercises. Front lever progression, L-sits, tuck planche, plank with added weight
T: board climbing. Climbed the two projects I've been trying for a couple of months (YYFY), though on one I had to change a foothold to a better one to climb it.
W: Aerocap on the board during lunch break. Farmers walk, L.sits, tuck planche and ring dips in the evening
T: Lunch. Some weights. Clean and press and weighted pull ups. Evening hiit
F: nothing.
S: Some clean and press and pull ups as recruitment for sunday
S: bouldering. Small injury (I hope) at a wrist on one of the first problems  . Continued climbing, but it was too hot, so in the end I didn't do much.

[cheque]

Priddock Wood is on the list !

I'm up for a visit.

[36chambers]

Currently at a loose end with regards to STG and MTG. Suppose it's time to do some Spring cleaning before the summer connies kick in.

Get on some limestone sport?!?

I'm saving sport climbing for when I'm well and truly desperate.

[Coops_13]

Currently at a loose end with regards to STG and MTG. Suppose it's time to do some Spring cleaning before the summer connies kick in.

Get on some limestone sport?!?

I'm saving sport climbing for when I'm well and truly desperate.

Is that not what grit in Summer is?

[shark]

Priddock Wood is on the list !

I'm up for a visit.

We have generally pencilled in Thursday evening. This Thursday's forecast looks good. 

[fried]

Crap week. Too much work and too little sleep ( I think I'm becoming an insomniac, I wake up at almost exactly 4am every morning and don't really sleep again).

Did nothing all week until Sunday when I took one of the quick drying options and went to 95.2 where I haven't been for ages. I managed to get up almost nothing, tried a red problem that I've been trying for years, get closer everytime, but not yet there. The rock is getting really worn here, although it's a lovely spring spot for some sunbathing. Then got into a session on the charmingly named Pubis Infernal https://bleau.info/95.2/3796.html. Got to the sloper but not beyond it, was assured by some Belgians that it was 'nails'. Went home tired with a slight tan. Good finger training trying to weigh the polished smears.

[nai]

Nice one T_B, my most sought after problem.

STG - Raindogs, Peak WIPS with Call Of Nature now a priority

M - AeroPow - Foot on Campusing
     HI AeroCap
     Core

T - Bouldering, reasonable

W - core
     mistake number 1 - not doing AeroPow training today

Th - Mistake number 2 - being distracted and not making it out in time to get to the Foundry
       Mistake number 3 - making up a hard new problem while warming up in the garage and spending far too long trying links.
       Mistake number 4 - performing AeroPow badly at the Works
       Mistake number 5 - deciding I might as well do LI AeroCap as well

Fri - woke up feeling the previous day in arms and shoulders.
     Tor - bit damper than expected, aborted go on wet Sardine and reopened account with Call Of Nature. Tried this in 2011 but ran out of weather and motivation then again in 2014 but couldn't make much of an impression. Got the throw to sika waaaay more consistently today (might be down to Miuras rather than any performance gains) and managed to link the 3 crux moves for the first time. Massive progress. After two short burns working the crux I was done in (see previous day...) and the easier top section was wet so no chance to work out on that.  Still work to be done refining the section from flake to throw but a very positive short session, can't wait to get back on it.

Sa - Strangely felt ok (suppose Fri was a very short session) so fingerboard & weighted pullups. Decent.

Su -  Consecutive late nights take their toll. Knackered. Just 10 minutes core.

[tomtom]

Nice one T_B \o/

Keep the faith El Sharkio - despite those problems being done before, bask in the couple of days pleasure you had of doing them for the first time.... the feelings the same, just lasts a bit longer

M: Work
T: Long day out in the field lots of driving
W: Work - was going to go to Depot in evening but was feeling a bit arsed off. Phoned up about the 'procedure' for the spot on my back - was told to ring up the next day as there were going to be some appointments 'released' then (all sounded odd..)

Th: Forecast looked a bit crap - though clearing in the afternoon. Headed back up to Curbizzle - got there about 12, things still drying. Messed about on trackside for a while, a rare flash of Strawberries and played on sidetrack until it started to wear out my left arm. By then the Bad Landing boulder had dried so wandered up to have a play on Late Junction (3rd or 4th session..). Warmed up by doing the 7A at the end, and the 7A part in the middle. Had a decent rest and then:



Very pleased with my first new 7B of the year.. \o/ Jim and Jim Jnr came down about 2ish and I pissed about on La Muse - annoyingly working out the body position for the throw just before a shower drenched it. A few futile throws on Dans Wall (is it me - or is this stiff for 7A?) and home...

Fr: Called the NHS number again - told to call back in two weeks time... apparently 12-17 weeks is the waiting list time - though I get the impressing if I phone up regularly and badger them I'll get something sooner....

Sa: Forecast looked like crap weather was coming from the S to N, so I decided against a peak trip and headed to Woodwell. Went to Oer't Road for the first time - a bit damp in places, but set to Angel Deelite. Worked it for an hour, got the two crux moves (for me) done and overlapping then ran out of skin/strength. Jesus - is that it, an hour of bouldering and I'm done in! Interestingly, I seem to prefer crimping a sharp little edge about a cm inside from the larger flatty with my LH for the high left foot press to get around the lip... anyway, one for another time and now I know what the place looks like. Went and had a look at Not Bad Dave (a summer project I think) and felt tired looking at it...

Su: In bed all day, feeling nauseous, headache, couldnt keep anything down. Passed by 7pm when I started feeling normal again. TBH it felt like a really bad hangover day - but I hadnt drunk anything :/

[ashtond6]

11.1-2 I recced Computer Say No buttress in the mistaken belief that Glass Slipper was there - looked dirty and unapealling.

I pulled the worst of the moss and mud off this a few months ago, was it dry when you had a look? I keep meaning to go back after a dry spell
Isla Grace in the same area, just above the road, is worth a look if you're around there. Highball 6c

I looked at Glass Slipper in Feb & seemed in great condition (though was wet at the time)
Hows the landing on Isla Grace? Is it easy to find?

[nai]

Dans Wall (is it me - or is this stiff for 7A?)

Feels it until it clicks then you have a "Oh, was that it?" moment

[tomtom]

Dans Wall (is it me - or is this stiff for 7A?)

Feels it until it clicks then you have a "Oh, was that it?" moment

Hmm - first move is a non starter for me at the moment (two hands and heel scrabbling around the corner)..

[nai]

oh yeah i remember now, might be a bit bunched for you. 

Have you seen?



But not worth putting loads of effort into, better stuff to go at that might  suit you better

[ashtond6]

oh yeah i remember now, might be a bit bunched for you.

But not worth putting loads of effort into, better stuff to go at that might  suit you better

That problem is so bloody hard for tall people!

[nai]

Oh no it's happened again, my heart's bleeding all over the place

[tomtom]

Oh no it's happened again, my heart's bleeding all over the place

At least you won't strain your back bending down to mop all the blood off the floor... :p

PS - yes seen that vid. And the one with the using footblock blatant cheat way..

[webbo]

Mon. Physio. Turbo 50 mins.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Physio. Turbo 50 mins, one of my regular workouts and my heart rate was similar to pre injury levels.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Weights before work.
Sat. Physio. Deadhanging 7 different grips 6 secs with 18.75 lbs added. Then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off X 5  5 sets 2 mins rest between sets with 20 lbs added. Bike 18.05 miles 1 hr 6 mins Achilles felt OK.
Sun. Bike 26.54 miles 1 hr 33 mins even caught a few folk. Achilles ok again.

[nik at work]

Nice one T_B

Last week I mentioned rejoining the fold so...

M-S - work
S - AM work, PM DIY, early evening a quick hour at the training traverse wall working on the latest eliminate project line.

Not a great re-entry clearly...

Various goals to be decided.

[tomtom]

Mon. Physio. Turbo 50 mins.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Physio. Turbo 50 mins, one of my regular workouts and my heart rate was similar to pre injury levels.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Weights before work.
Sat. Physio. Deadhanging 7 different grips 6 secs with 18.75 lbs added. Then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off X 5  5 sets 2 mins rest between sets with 20 lbs added. Bike 18.05 miles 1 hr 6 mins Achilles felt OK.
Sun. Bike 26.54 miles 1 hr 33 mins even caught a few folk. Achilles ok again.

Glad to head you are back on the bike and the achilles feels alright...

[TobyD]

Sun 3/4 Turkey day 1; great day out quick warm up, OS 'ed 2 7as, 2 7bs, close to a 7c+ which went first RP
Mon 4/4 Turkey day 2; More onsighting up to 7c. An American dude told me he'd warmed up on the 7c and it was terrifying. Turned out he'd dogged it, though he neglected to tell me that.
Tue 5/4 day 3 - pretty tired and very warm, but managed a good cluster of routes OS up to 7b
Wed 6/4 much needed rest
Thu 7/4 day 5 in Turkey; quick warm up and OS' ed 2 7cs in a row, really chuffed and both stunning routes. Did a bit more stuff afterwards, including a sandbag 7b which i had to RP
Fri 8/4 day 6 - early morning session another warm one but onsighted a good 7b+ among others, went back for an evening hit but kept it steady and did a couple of 7as
Sat 9/4 last day in Turkey, got on an incredible but hard 7b+ (although i was probably pretty tired so hard to tell) and fell off about 35m up out of 37,going for what appeared to be jugs to the top. Way too tired to attempt a RP, but did about 4 more nice routes up to 7b after a decent rest.
Sun 10/4 virtually no sleep due to delayed flights, travel etc, but lovely day so popped out for a quick spin on the bike - about 1hr30. Bit of stretching after. Rest and skin regrowth needed!
Chuffed with Turkey trip, a great location, and pretty psyched to get a trip organised to go to Citdibi later in the year, it looks like the crag of the area.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Bouldering phase.

M. Kettlebells workout.
T. Poor sesh on Orme, got out too late. Norman's Wall smeggy greasy (Aardvark Start and Norman's Direct), then round to Drive By wall (Where's my Hippo ss) but minging greasy and dark.
W. Supposed to be board sesh at Mill. Arrived to find door deliberately blocked on the inside so no entry possible. Bailed to Beacon for a campus sesh (terrible campus setup at Beacon): managed 1-4-6 and 1-5-match on medium rungs (Beacon don't have smalls), not too bad. Some repeaters on the BM to finish. Average sesh.
T. Tremerchion after work. Progress on 36 Chambers, tried cross through way but holding the swing feels too on/off. Easily doing the normal way now to the slpoer and come in with left. Should finish it off next time.
F. Very brief 45 minute cave sesh at 9.30pm. Tried  Wobbly Block Start for the first time. Did it no bother to the starting hold on RA with beta from resident Jordan.
S. Took girlfriend and her 10-year old daughter for their first day of multi-pitching - Poor Man's Peuterey at Tremadog. Brilliant! Reminded me how involved it is looking after two newbies on multi-pitch. They loved it.
S. Multi-pitch day with partner and daughter. Took them up Flying Buttress on the Cromlech, winds were gusting strong. Another brilliant experience. Safe-guarding a 10 year-old and novice mum on multi-pitch in strong winds was quite an intense workout. Daughter is going to be a very good climber, she's super-keen. Mum will soon be leading Severes/6as and seconding E1's. 


Average/poor week in training terms. Great fun taking the tribe multi-pitching. Next week Glendolough, psyched!