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Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders (Read 5073 times)

Fiend

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Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders
September 10, 2004, 10:19:36 am
Well old man Panton it seems your nefarious plan, scarcely concealed in The Book Of Righteousness, to get people to explore away from the polished honeypots and even force us poor weak climbers to actually do some WALKING (invariably including the ubiquitous BOG), is working for some people  :wink:

Thus I grumbled my way over and around towards Cwm Dyli, ignoring the temptations of Jacob's Media at Craig Aderyn which is probably much more my thing, and am pleased to report that anyone looking for an excellent and varied easy-mid grade circuit situated in isolated splendour could do little better than the Cwm Dyli boulders  :8)

I managed most of the easier classics, apart from Teryn Arete which was too high, too hard, and too hot, and gave the great looking Moose's Wall a go but was stopped by rather painful tips (oh yeah and being too fat and weak). The variety and amenable feel to the area was appreciated, Gwion's Groove and The Bassline were great problems, but the highlight by far was the Teryn Roof Crack, a veritable orgy of overhanging fisting, inverted locks and superb foot jamming - truly a classic  :twisted:

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#1 Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders
September 10, 2004, 10:48:57 am
Word Fiend. I used to work in the Pen-y-pass youth hostel so quite often walked up to Cwm Dyli boulders. Teryn Arete is high and hard but very good as are both the slabby problems left of it.
Mooses wall is also a great problem and teryn crack is very good too, but above all it's the setting that makes it a great spot.
When I was out there I felt totally chilled-no nobbers around, no traffic, no egos.
Tis a very nice spot indeed.

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#2 Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders
September 10, 2004, 11:54:04 pm
Yeah for sure a nice spot for chilling out....



...and in very good nick apart from a bit of lichen around TA itself. I did find the Teryn Crack itself pretty hard compared to the rest of the stuff  :? Teryn Wall was nice tho  :wink:

Teryn this that and the other heh.

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#3 Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders
September 11, 2004, 07:00:08 am
Nice! What's on the big slab?

Fiend

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#4 Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders
September 11, 2004, 11:43:12 am
A classic Hard Severe, Jacob's Media....it's about 50m I think....this is a view from the boulders not of the boulders, BTW - the big pointy thing in the background is not a boulder  :wink:

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#5 Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders
September 11, 2004, 12:37:40 pm
Good to see people making the effort, getting away from the obvious, easy access stuff.

Actually the walk in to Cwm Dyli is pretty straightforward, being largely flat (ish), then a quick tumble down a tussocky slope. Bit of a thrash on the return, I admit, but WTF, it's a great place to boulder.

The roof crack is a belter!

On a pedantic note, it is 'Teyrn', not 'Teryn'.

The name is actually derived from the nearby Llyn Teyrn - I think previous guidebook writers have gotten confused because of Craig Aderyn.

I know it is harder to say, but my friendly neighbourhood place name expert (Iwan Arfon Jones) assures me that this the correct nomenclature.

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#6 Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders
September 11, 2004, 05:51:16 pm
P.S. The one thing I forgot to mention is that the Roof Crack is about gritstone E1... :wink:

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#7 Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders
September 11, 2004, 09:49:29 pm
Surely you mean E0+?

 :wink:

(I actually found the hardest bit was getting established on the rib type thang, once I'd quit the crack.)

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#8 Cwm Dyli / Teryn Bluff boulders
September 11, 2004, 10:34:48 pm
Ah no I think it would be fair at E1....

That was a wicked move at the lip....I'd got into a bomber jam with my left and two good foot jams and was groping around on the lip for something solid and achieving nothing except lacerating my inner right arm on some flakey bit....then I figured I had to get out a bit, so trusted the shitty jam right on the lip, jammed one foot deep in, got my left hand out onto the rib, reversed the right hand jam, got the left up and rotated outwards into glory. Proper 3D business...

 

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