the shizzle > MoonBoard
Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights
reeve:
I've climbed on the 25 at the schoolroom a fair few times. I think I actually prefer it to the 40 - it's more specific to most UK route crux sequences. And the wood holds must be desperate at 40 degrees (for me at least), but are the best ones at 25 for me. Having said that I really dislike those bright pink holds - lots of big semi-sphere blobs which feel awkward to use and potentially tweaky to my fingers. Are there many problems available which only use a couple of hold sets?
Sasquatch:
There are quite a few that use only the older hold sets as that's what many people have.
SA Chris:
Mate of mine has just set up his mini moon board with the laminated wooden holds in his garage. He said he thought he was having condensation problems, but it looks like an odd case; one 4 or 5 of the holds are really damp, almost greasy, and the rest are fine. His garage has one wall as a retaining wall, but the rest are exposed to air and there is loads of space around it for air flow through the garage door and the side door, way more than the average cellar.
Anyone had any experience of this? it's like the holds haven't been dried out properly, or there is an issue with the lamination process.
Bradders:
I'm not sure how the lamination part works, but my experience of holds made from plywood is they are catastrophically susceptible to condensation. Far more so than any other material. Presumably the laminating is supposed to help?
I also have had it where holds in different places on the board are affected differently despite being made from the same material, which I imagine is something to do with airflow etc.
Lots of advice on the holds thread around preventing / mitigating condensation.
SA Chris:
Yeah, we are going through the preventing / mitigating process at the moment. But the difference between two holds next to each other is (literally) chalk and cheese, and the affected holds are randomly scattered.
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