UKBouldering.com

MOONBOARD

Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights (Read 81598 times)

Luke Owens

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
Have you tried Ben Moon's Hard Times? One of the more popular ones. I haven't done it but had a session where I did the moves and thought it would go quite easily before being completely shut down on the link. Others have since told me that it's supposed to be quite hard.

I haven't tried it, I'll take a look, but from your description it sounds like it's in the sandbag category?

remus

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2982
  • Karma: +152/-1
Have you looked at the benchmark problems? Still a bit of a spread but generally decent problems. If you look for things with a lot of ascents they tend to be at the easier end of the scale.

Luke Owens

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
Have you looked at the benchmark problems? Still a bit of a spread but generally decent problems. If you look for things with a lot of ascents they tend to be at the easier end of the scale.

I've checked out the benchmarks in the lower grades 6B+ - 6C+ and still thought the grades/quality were all over the shop.

I was after problems that people had done that they thought were good/about the right grade. A bit like an easier version of what someone had posted earlier in this thread about a list of good 7C's.

monkoffunk

more Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 773
  • Karma: +61/-0
  • sponsored by 90% lindt and vitamin D
Ah they have reset the TCA Bristol one.

cofe

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
A few Ive done recently in the grade ballpark:

Gesier Right-Hand
Magnum
Her Comes the King
Leap Creep

Hard Times is a good rec.

jwi

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4296
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground
Are you guys on your way to discover that indoor boulder problems with tracking can be quite morpho?  ;)

Luke Owens

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
Cheers cofe.

Are you guys on your way to discover that indoor boulder problems with tracking can be quite morpho?  ;)

I realised this on my first session!


The comments section on the app is a circus. Just seems to be full euros/beasts saying every single problem is soft/a warm up or my personal favourite on something around 7A "Flash, warm up, soft, 6A".

moose

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2944
  • Karma: +229/-1
  • el flaco lento
The comments section on the app is a circus. Just seems to be full euros/beasts saying every single problem is soft/a warm up or my personal favourite on something around 7A "Flash, warm up, soft, 6A".

My favourites are the ones along the lines of "soft, missed out D8", indicating that they did a footless one-armer off a micro-gaston.

As I wrote above - I feel it's a great concept, poorly executed - though the reported introduction of new, nicer holds and dedicated shitty smears might address that (if at the cost of negating the existing database?).

gme

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1832
  • Karma: +148/-6
I think tracking is way better than jibs, not just on moon board but all boards.
I think when you have loads of jibs you end up climbing every problem the same where as with tracking your forced to do things differently.
Moonboard set up before the new one did tend to have big step ups from the footboard but only because most of the problems start on one of the low jugs

Doylo

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
My board has both tracking problems and two different coloured sizes of small screw ons. More choice and variety to have both. Tracking problems let you use smaller hand holds with often bigger/more positive feet and foot jibs train tension. Best of both worlds.

petejh

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5845
  • Karma: +627/-36
Have you looked at the benchmark problems? Still a bit of a spread but generally decent problems. If you look for things with a lot of ascents they tend to be at the easier end of the scale.

I've checked out the benchmarks in the lower grades 6B+ - 6C+ and still thought the grades/quality were all over the shop.

I was after problems that people had done that they thought were good/about the right grade. A bit like an easier version of what someone had posted earlier in this thread about a list of good 7C's.

Just looking through my moonboard logbook (I'm that sad). Here's some 7As I've done that I noted as good and not either nails or 6C:

Gunshow
Rotto
ACG24
Attrezzo Di Tortura (I noted this as bottom end 7A or 6C+)
First Set: Pinch 'n' Inch (same comment as above)
CBS Trainer (same comment as above)

Punch Drunk - this is ace but I commented that I thought it felt 7B. Still one worth getting on as it's knacky not too burly.

Coops_13

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
Had a couple of sessions on the moonboard now, further to the problems mentioned by Pete I'd recommend:
Pogo 7A
Magnum 7A
Hard Pull on Var 7A+
Borneo 7B

Oldmanmatt

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • At this rate, I probably wont last the week.
  • Posts: 7297
  • Karma: +378/-17
  • Largely broken. Obsolete spares and scrap only.
    • The Boulder Bunker climbing centre
Anyone got the 10 original kickboard holds they want rid of?
Apparently you have to read the small print very carefully when you order from Moon...  :slap:

Nibile

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8014
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
One of my best friends is going to mount a Moonboard in his new house. I'd better pull my finger out...
It's been ages since my last session. I used to do quite well on the yellow set, on average. Was poor on the white one, it was full of pinches.
Anyway, good times.
I'll probably start back from the low 6's...

Palomides

more Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 732
  • Karma: +33/-1
bump...

It turns out that our club wall has a 25 surface thats just right for a Moonboard (there's a 40 surface next to it, but it's 60cm too short, and we don't really have the population for a 40 moonboard)

Anyone used the 25 setup much? Is it worth it?

Probably start with limited hold sets - maybe C and Original, maybe adding the wood set if it's popular. Might be an expensive experiment if not!

(and no, I'm not back climbing - asking for a friend etc etc  ;D )

reeve

more Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 437
  • Karma: +81/-1
I've climbed on the 25 at the schoolroom a fair few times. I think I actually prefer it to the 40 - it's more specific to most UK route crux sequences. And the wood holds must be desperate at 40 degrees (for me at least), but are the best ones at 25 for me. Having said that I really dislike those bright pink holds - lots of big semi-sphere blobs which feel awkward to use and potentially tweaky to my fingers. Are there many problems available which only use a couple of hold sets?

Sasquatch

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1988
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
There are quite a few that use only the older hold sets as that's what many people have. 

SA Chris

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29434
  • Karma: +639/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Mate of mine has just set up his mini moon board with the laminated wooden holds in his garage. He said he thought he was having condensation problems, but it looks like an odd case; one 4 or 5 of the holds are really damp, almost greasy, and the rest are fine. His garage has one wall as a retaining wall, but the rest are exposed to air and there is loads of space around it for air flow through the garage door and the side door, way more than the average cellar.

Anyone had any experience of this? it's like the holds haven't been dried out properly, or there is an issue with the lamination process.

Bradders

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3
I'm not sure how the lamination part works, but my experience of holds made from plywood is they are catastrophically susceptible to condensation. Far more so than any other material. Presumably the laminating is supposed to help?

I also have had it where holds in different places on the board are affected differently despite being made from the same material, which I imagine is something to do with airflow etc.

Lots of advice on the holds thread around preventing / mitigating condensation.

SA Chris

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29434
  • Karma: +639/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Yeah, we are going through the preventing / mitigating process at the moment. But the difference between two holds next to each other is (literally) chalk and cheese, and the affected holds are randomly scattered.

tomtom

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20311
  • Karma: +644/-11
Mine have always been fine. From experience the best way to get feedback/gently raise a complaint is via the facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/moonboard

Good luck - sounds like a manufacturing issue to me - plenty on that FB group with more knowlege...

teestub

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2703
  • Karma: +174/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
The one at Bradford is very prone to condensation, and this also seems to impact the wood holds quite randomly, some would be totally fine, others fully soaked. Not sure if its to do with the shapes cutting into the ply layers or something but very odd.

SA Chris

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29434
  • Karma: +639/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
That sounds like exactly the case here.

jwi

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4296
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground
The hold in position G11 on the minimoonboard is the one that first gets slippery very humid days, and the last to dry out when I turn on the dehumidfier. Clearly much worse than other holds, but there are a few mores that got affected when we had >70% RH at 22 C. (I cannot remember which ones from the top of my head).

Plywood holds seem more affected than the pure wood holds I have (not birch, so hard to compare). And as you say, it seems a bit random.

Probes

more Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Wood Abuser
  • Posts: 1074
  • Karma: +47/-2
    • Crusher Holds
Apparently the reason behind different sheets of the same type of plywood being more/less susceptible to mold is down to where in the trunk it was cut. Its rotary cut, so some will be the younger outer part all the way to the older centre section. The older has less sapwood, cells dying off over the years, which have become harder and more resistant to absorbing moisture thus mold growth. This is the same with all timbers, not just ply timbers.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal