MOONBOARD
Most of the benchmarks are good so its a good start to work your way through them. All pretty stern grades.
If you want an ego trip put your settings on the grade you want to do, list by most ascents and ignore the user grade. Low and behold you will be flashing 7Bs before you know it.
Word up folks, been having a few moonboard sessions of late, anyone got any recommendations for good problems generally in the 7b+ to 8a range? Ideally not just ones which are huge jumps between massive holds.
The benchmarks are a joke. Some of them are quite good, some are not very good. Some are massive sandbags, some are seemingly soft.
Nectar of the ToddsGastonificationLeocremaflandersBlack CatsKawaschuwuSenseipiccole righe
The benchmarks are a joke. Some of them are quite good, some are not very good. Some are massive sandbags, some are seemingly soft. I think it would be better if there was an algorithm to calculate based on star rating and grade accuracy rather than 1(or 5) persons opinion, even if it is Ben. This is not only my opinion, but consensus amongst everyone here locally. FYI - i've done almost all of the benchmarks, but anyway who thinks problem 23 is even close to 7C has steel tendons and can't grade for shit...
Soulmoves South 2016 - very odd 6inch first move?
Quote from: Sasquatch on June 29, 2017, 11:23:01 pmThe benchmarks are a joke. Some of them are quite good, some are not very good. Some are massive sandbags, some are seemingly soft. I think it would be better if there was an algorithm to calculate based on star rating and grade accuracy rather than 1(or 5) persons opinion, even if it is Ben. This is not only my opinion, but consensus amongst everyone here locally. FYI - i've done almost all of the benchmarks, but anyway who thinks problem 23 is even close to 7C has steel tendons and can't grade for shit...This is exactly what the user grade does. Its calculated on a formula once more than a certain number of people have logged a user grade. This seems to make things worse as i am yet to see an upgrade but lots and lots of downgrades often taking problems from hugely over graded to hugely under graded. I believe the star system is supposed to work this way as well.I have suggested that the main grade should change to the average logged user grade with the original grade dropping into brackets then this would allow the filters to work better.Re problem 23 i think its desperate but the lad i climb with did it in a few tries and thought it was steady for 7C. Here lies the problem with grades.
Quote from: Sasquatch on June 29, 2017, 11:23:01 pmThe benchmarks are a joke. Some of them are quite good, some are not very good. Some are massive sandbags, some are seemingly soft.Had a look at some of the alleged benchmarks last night, and the above seems to ring true. Grades and quality all over the place. Also seem to be overrepresented in the "huge jumps between massive holds" style too.Still, found a few decent ones to try. Soulmoves South 2016 - very odd 6inch first move? Have I missed something. Blow - seemed like pulling off the ground for the first move is twice as hard as any other move on it?Quote from: Sasquatch on June 29, 2017, 11:29:05 pmNectar of the ToddsGastonificationLeocremaflandersBlack CatsKawaschuwuSenseipiccole righeWill check them out, cheers.
I believe the new pink and wood holds are about to/have been released - anyone had a go with these?didn't know about the 25 degree option - surely all the holds are way too good for this angle?