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MOONBOARD

Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights (Read 72707 times)

andy_e

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Now you can buy your own for the price of a decent second-hand car.

http://www.moonclimbing.com/gear/moonboard/freestanding-moonboard.html

nai

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Bargain, you'd only have to use it 974 times for it to work out cheaper than going to the Foundry.

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tommytwotone

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That's a lot of fuckalls for a board that's only just over a foot high as well.




andy_e

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tomtom

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Bargain, you'd only have to use it 974 times for it to work out cheaper than going to the Foundry.

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Every other day for 5 years... if there were a group it would be worth it...

standard

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who the hell is the target market?

lagerstarfish

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does that include postage?

moose

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does that include postage?

For that price I want Ben and Jerry to come round and assemble it, assisted by the ghost of Wolfgang Gullich.

tomtom

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TBH I think that's a pretty decent price. I'd never consider spending ££ on something like that - but given what's involved in making and designing it then I think it's fair. I would imagine that at that price it would have some appeal to wall owners...

petejh

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Quite right - the R+D that goes into building something which demolishes your ego with brick hard 6Cs doesn't come cheap.

gme

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Compare it to a home made board with some second hand mattresses its expensive.

Build your own fixed version to the same standard and buy the lights, holds proper matting etc would cost 3k minimum .

Make your own freestanding version of this including all the stuff, design, calculations etc from scratch would cost you more than 7.5k.

There is a massive difference in what you would have at home and what professional gyms and walls use. A treadmill like you see in Gyms around the world cost between 6k-20k. Fancy multi gym 5k-12k, exercise bike 5k-8k. etc etc.

lagerstarfish

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what Gav said

moose

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Aye, despite my earlier facetious comment, at heart, I agree.   I am always happy to pay a sizable premium for people to do work that I lack the skills for (which is pretty much everything, truth be told).  I generally figure I would waste so much materials and time that its more economic (financially and in terms of opportunity cost) to spend my days earning and climbing as normal, pay the price, and end up something a bit more professional (the part exception I make is those trades I feel are full of conmen, in which case I am prepared to spend a bit of time youtubing plumbing videos!).

So, adding in the development and LED system to the construction and materials costs, a Moonboard doesn't seem massively unreasonable.  Especially for a commercial wall where the presence of a Moonboard could increase custom - must be quite good for a climber to go to a wall and know, should they not like the "native problems", they'll be able to work projects on the Moonboard they've already worked at other Moonboard equipped venues.

SA Chris

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Had a play on a mates Moon with LEDs on Saturday for the first time, had a good session, got my ass kicked though.

Sasquatch

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The range of difficulty at any grade is so outrageous it can be a trick to figure out for the first few times.  Then you start to get it down better and it starts to make more sense...

petejh

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Any tips?

SA Chris

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I think it's just getting the style of climbing the board requires wired. Lots of intensive core to get feet on high holds and balance on them, and setting up for big moves between reasonable holds.

Muenchener

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There's definitely a knack. I had about my fifth session on one last night, and went from barely being able to string a couple of moves together, to being within one move of completing my first problem.

In my case a lot of it is contact strength - I can hang the holds ok statically, but latching them and staying in control is much harder. But I doubt if my contact strength increased three-fold between Sunday & Tuesday. (Better try to remember what I had for dinner on Monday though, just in case it did)

The other thing that changed, and probably actually  made the rapid difference, was practicing the transition from extended core tension with the feet low on the kickboard, and staying in control while bringing a foot high onto the starting handhold. And deciding when to do it. The moon holds are big as footholds, but the strict feet-follow-hands rule does make for awkward foot positions.

SA Chris

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Sorry, can you repeat that.

JDobo

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Had my first session on a moonboard the other day but has some issues with the app. My phone could find the board on Bluetooth but couldn't find the board via the app so I had to do it the old fassioned way! Any advice from the tech wizards?

nai

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If another phone has been connected previously you need to restart the board. 

My phone doesn't see it in BT but will connect.  If it's the Foundry board mine only connects if I have the phone bottom left corner of the board and usually takes a couple of attempts.



Sasquatch

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Any tips?

Start off sorting and filtering so that the highest number of repeats in a grade show up first.  They're by and large either easy ticks or on the money and a good way to work through problems.  Start recording those and they'll slowly disappear until you get into a good range.  User grades can be helpful in identifying the big softies, but I've never seen a sandbagged problem get the user upgrade.  So if you filter by most repeats, then sift through the user grades, you can find some good ones. 

I didn't find the Benchmarks particularly useful as the difficulties seem all over the place to me.  Nothing resembling "benchmark" about most of them. 

In terms of learning the "style",
I think it's just getting the style of climbing the board requires wired. Lots of intensive core to get feet on high holds and balance on them, and setting up for big moves between reasonable holds.
is generally spot on.  High feet, tension while extended, and dynamic movement are all key. 

Fadanoid

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My tip would be make a mental note of the setters name. You can start to avoid their multiple sandbags and weird problems.

dave

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Word up folks, been having a few moonboard sessions of late, anyone got any recommendations for good problems generally in the 7b+ to 8a range? Ideally not just ones which are huge jumps between massive holds.

gme

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Problem 23. Soul moves south. blow. all 7C benchmarks and all good. I have not done any of them but am trying. Blow is superb.

Most of the benchmarks are good so its a good start to work your way through them. All pretty stern grades.

 

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