[SA Chris]

Or going back further

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_in_Japan_(band)

[jwi]

Good thing I'm forever young.

[dave]

New set of round pink holds appeared on the Moonboard in the school. Some are a bit weird (i.e. circular balls with mono cutouts) but generally a big improvement over the black and white sets.

[Duma]

Are they in the currently empty bolt holes, or instead of one of the other sets?

Thought there was some wood holds in developement?

[dave]

Well on the school board it looks like a mixture of white, black and yellows have been removed, and new pink ones put on in their place, leaving maybe 75% of the old while, black and yellows on. Kinda looks like some kind of work in progress at the minute as there is not an even spread of pinks.

I believe there are some wooden ones in the pipeline. At the school there are some moon wooden (ply) holds on the main wall which are very nice, very comfy, reservations about plywood notwithstanding. Again, these could be prototypes for all I know.

I reckon a moonbloard with a set of wooden hold, these new pinks, plus the old yellows would be a huge improvement on the current set.

[Duma]

yeah, shame the app's exploded with the black and whites - hard to change now without pissing a lot of folk off. Any way they could remove some of the worst/least used of those sets to give enough space for the new ones? Still would be very difficult with the number of problems now.

[dave]

The other way of looking at it is there are enough boards around the world with the white/black/yellow setup for it to be above the critical mass where it has self sustaining momentum, so introduction of more hold sets are not going to kill those setups off. Everyone doesn't have to be on the same setup.

[standard]

https://www.facebook.com/frictionlabs/videos/vb.184722175056365/587437884784790/?type=2&theater

[gme]

There will be a whole new set up out this year. Going to be all tested to ensure there good then released as a set.

It won't piss anyone off as the app allows multiple setups so the new holds will just add to.
It will still be possible to add to the set used now. 

Imagine the new set will eventually take over from the old but it will take time. Or maybe the walls will just have two boards.

[highrepute]

After initially being skeptical about the moonboard I've had a couple of sessions at the foundry board now and like it. I think it climbs well. I think i enjoy the ease of finding new problems to climb and the fact I get to log stuff. Grown to like (or at least not hate) the black and white holds.

New holds can't be a bad thing, especially if they are an improvement on the current sets. There might be a short period where there's not many problems in the app but that won't last long with the amount of moonheads out there now.

Got some ply holds on my board and they are nice. But with feet following hands on the moonboard not sure how long they'd last being stood on all the time.

[Three Nine]

yeah, shame the app's exploded with the black and whites - hard to change now without pissing a lot of folk off. Any way they could remove some of the worst/least used of those sets to give enough space for the new ones? Still would be very difficult with the number of problems now.

Moonboard at TCA is the wrong angle anyway, so its not like you can really try the same problems anyway 

[standard]

Is it? Or is that a lattice angle dig?

[Duma]

41 degrees instead of 40 I was told. Just have to get stronger...

[Three Nine]

41 degrees instead of 40 I was told. Just have to get stronger...

A couple of people have commented that its less steep than the one in the school, which I assume is the correct angle? I don't think TCA bothered to change the angle of the panel when they put it in.

[Duma]

I know they didn't, Paul reckoned it'd be close enough. If the school's steeper then I think he's right!

[Fadanoid]

For the sake of argument, according to the instructions on the website I have calculated the angle is 40°45'5", so you could round the minute off and it is indeed 41°

We are however only talking a linear distance difference of 63mm at the top of the boards though between 40-41°. If you can detect that when climbing you should approach ITV to revamp 'you bet' and use this skill for charity...

[tomtom]

Could you not compensate for this by climbing with shoes with 1cm thick soles?

[dave]

I think the angle of the school one was changed (Gav?) not that long ago to be slightly less steep. Not sure if this is now the offical angle or not now, if so maybe it was setup too steep originally.

[lagerstarfish]

We are however only talking a linear distance difference of 63mm at the top of the boards though between 40-41°. If you can detect that when climbing you should approach ITV to revamp 'you bet' and use this skill for charity...

or emabark on a Milo of Croton style training regime?

[Three Nine]

I was just picking holes because the MB is the only bit i use at TCA and I dont want it clogged up with psyched Dumas.

[gme]

 

I think the angle of the school one was changed (Gav?) not that long ago to be slightly less steep. Not sure if this is now the offical angle or not now, if so maybe it was setup too steep originally.

The one at the school is adjustable and fastened back with chains. at some point it go moved and I re set it a few months back. It's 40 degrees now.

[Sasquatch]

Having climbed on one that was 43, then moving to a 40, there are some problems that are hugely different(i.e. 1-2 grades), and some that aren't. 

[tomtom]

its amazing how the moonboard has been around for ages - but only seems to have taken off with the lights and app combo..
Mr Moon owes those guys who first wired one up with LED's a few drinks....

[Sasquatch]

Those are my friends here in AK  

One of them is the business side of the LED kits, which he sells to Mr. Moon.  He's doing just fine with it.

I actually hope they load some of the old setups and problems into the App.  There were some good stout ones on the old setup.

[tomtom]

Those are my friends here in AK  

One of them is the business side of the LED kits, which he sells to Mr. Moon.  He's doing just fine with it.

I actually hope they load some of the old setups and problems into the App.  There were some good stout ones on the old setup.

I thought it was