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[Peak][Back Tor][Various][4-6c] (Read 1401 times)

JHarding

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[Peak][Back Tor][Various][4-6c]
August 12, 2018, 11:11:19 am
Small wall (Baby Back Rib area) and two boulders (Cripple Slab and Power Shart) at the far left (north) of Back Tor Left End. I've made a little PDF guide to help find and boulders and lines: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZICrscPZMUWEwGo1yLb-KZPCuX6q-FS7/view . This has probably been climbed before, so welcome to retro-claims! Tim and I put these up a few months ago and have had a few friends verify the grades, but let me know what you think.

Baby Back Rib area (from left to right):

- Scratchings (5+) ☆ Sit start on lower rail jugs, under-clings to top.
- Joe’s Micro Dyno (5) Straight up from juggy upper rail statically, unless you’re as small as Joe.
- Micro Pig (5+) Up from the lower rail jugs, trend leftwards on high slopers to the spike. No underclings.
- Baby Back Rib (6b) ★ Sit start on the rib, then straight up via crimps out left.
- Riblet (5) From the crimps under the roof, go up past the shelf and top out leftwards on high rib.
- Short Stack (6a) Tricky sit start from the pocket, then up the juggy breaks. 4+ from standing.
- Cocktail Sausage (4+) The right arête climbed on the left from standing.
- Full Rack (6c) ☆ The low traverse: Sit start on Scratchings’ leftmost jugs, traverse the lower break rightwards all the way to the far right arête, and finish up Cocktail Sausage.
- Porchetta (6b+) The high traverse: From Scratchings’ crimps, traverse the higher break rightwards and finish up the juggy top of Short Stack.

Cripple Slab (just down the hill on the left):

- Left Arête (4) The left arête from standing.
- Cripple Slab (6a) ★ Gain the good feet, then go straight up using the not-so-good feet to an exciting finish. Avoid the left arête and clusters of nipples out right.
- Nipple Slab (5) The right wall up prominent nipples, without the right arête. Tricky pull-on, easy slabbing.
- Orbital Battle Station (6a) Start standing down to the left without the foot block and go up the side wall using both arêtes. Avoid swinging left until the top.

Power Shart (slightly further down the hill on the right):

- Power Shart (6a+) ☆ Sit start on the left arête, throw for the top from a nice guppy and swing left to finish.
- Follow Through (6a+) Start as per Power Shart, but finish right.
- Dirty Stop Out (6c) Sit start at the break, with a nasty hand-jam and heel, and straight up.

 

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