[slackline]

I've seen a paper-mache model of JR's piece

http://youtu.be/wGKtEB-8IXE?t=4m20s

[Fiend]

Redhead is obviously going to be a marmite character for most people. In my case it's equivalent to marmite appreciation within me - except that I am fairly indifferent to marmite, but find JR simultaneously pompous/obscure/misguided AND inspirational/spot-on, sometimes in the same article. Either way, as someone above said, climbing does need characters...

Crucially, though, although he can be preachy / angsty / holier-than-thou etc etc, the climbing scene bloody well needs people taking someone sort of stand in favour of a deeper / richer / more inspired experience. JR's own motivations might be a bit too arty farty and his own approach might be a bit too confrontational, but the slide of climbing overall into a bland, shallow, number-bagging homogenous sport, oft-characterised by irrelevant "you can do what you want in the way you want" garbage is insidious enough to make his presence and stance worthwhile.

[Oldmanmatt]

Redhead is obviously going to be a marmite character for most people. In my case it's equivalent to marmite appreciation within me - except that I am fairly indifferent to marmite, but find JR simultaneously pompous/obscure/misguided AND inspirational/spot-on, sometimes in the same article. Either way, as someone above said, climbing does need characters...

Crucially, though, although he can be preachy / angsty / holier-than-thou etc etc, the climbing scene bloody well needs people taking someone sort of stand in favour of a deeper / richer / more inspired experience. JR's own motivations might be a bit too arty farty and his own approach might be a bit too confrontational, but the slide of climbing overall into a bland, shallow, number-bagging homogenous sport, oft-characterised by irrelevant "you can do what you want in the way you want" garbage is insidious enough to make his presence and stance worthwhile.

 But that's just it, you can make it what you want. Others and their opinions only matter if you choose to let it.

If they actively work to prevent your enjoyment of the world, intentionally or otherwise; then I could understand a militant standpoint.
Anything else is you (not You, any old "you") choosing to be affected.

I've expressed an opinion on JR's rant linked above (not JR in toto, that essay) but he affects me not a jot.

And,

Don't let the #'s grind you down.

[benno]

I've seen a paper-mache model of JR's piece

http://youtu.be/wGKtEB-8IXE?t=4m20s

... and the award for "Links I Won't Be Clicking At Work" goes to... 

[Will Hunt]

I've seen a paper-mache model of JR's piece

http://youtu.be/wGKtEB-8IXE?t=4m20s

... and the award for "Links I Won't Be Clicking At Work" goes to... 

Exactly what I was thinking! If it's the one I'm thinking of, it's John chasing a load of people round a town centre with a giant paper mache strap on.

Why? John Redhead, that's why.

[tomtom]

I've seen a paper-mache model of JR's piece

http://youtu.be/wGKtEB-8IXE?t=4m20s

... and the award for "Links I Won't Be Clicking At Work" goes to... 

Exactly what I was thinking! If it's the one I'm thinking of, it's John chasing a load of people round a town centre with a giant paper mache strap on.

Why? John Redhead, that's why.

Because he's on one end of the 'chasing people round a town centre with a giant cock' see saw

(I liked your point earlier Will - I think he adds some bonkers balance to the #spraying)

[Doylo]

Girls blog = pish . John Redhead = gorgeous

[Oldmanmatt]

https://medium.com/@georgieabel/confessions-of-a-spray-queen-87c7abc5d8e0#.6aovs7gor

FWIW the author of this piece is the same person who has the ugly vendetta against Andrew Bisharat, to which I alluded on the first page of this thread. I find it impossible to view this as anything other than the wannabe-journalist ramblings of someone has had their tedious self-referential opinions indulged in a nice university liberal arts course for a few years, is now grappling with the inconvenient reality that the world has very little economic need for their "skills" and so hopes to find a niche as a provocative writer on climbing issues.

Love that evisceration, it explains a lot.

Just one thing...

I'm sorry but as a man (at least you were the last time we met and Canada can be a bit odd), I don't think you should be offering an opinion on this unless you have walked 1.6 km in high heels and a dress.

Only Mumra is qualified to address this.

Except JR says she's not, because she's a she.

[Duma]

Thank you Andy.

[slackline]

Slightly related to this thread is the following blog-post from Steph Davis in response to an email she received on frustration in climbing...

I think it’s contentious because climbing grades have changed from something intended to provide information to others into a way of ranking who is better than someone else–climbing grades have become inextricably linked to human ego.  After a quarter century of climbing, I can safely say I don’t understand climbing grades at all

[slackline]

Since irony seems to be difficult to express within the confines of the forum post,

Need a new smiley....

[tomtom]

Since irony seems to be difficult to express within the confines of the forum post,

Were you being ironic there...?

Shit - this is all going a bit post modern...

[lagerstarfish]

lol

[r2d2]

I'm guessing you just don't get JR

Haha that's pretty patronising

I can be more patronising than that you turd

Nice one 

[Tommy]

Marc-Andre is the absolute dogs bollocks. In all my years I don't think I've been impressed by anyone else as much. Personally, I'd rank him above Hon-Wad for his high risk profile, substance appreciation and different take on life.

[Tommy]

Yeah, totally agree. I have an interview I recorded with him on dictaphone a couple of years ago and I still listen to it now. He's got one of the weirdly calming voices that makes you think it's going to be all ok, despite the fact he's telling you about onsight soloing some back country route that he's only checked the topo out in a climbing shop the day before. His stories of what he got up to in late teenage years are pretty committing. He's had the magic for a long time, but I think people are only just getting that.

[Johnny Brown]

Amazing. Seems like he's got just the right attitude.

[Will Hunt]

That's the best blog post I've read in ages. The writing flows effortlessly. And what an experience to write about.

It did make me really want to go bouldering.

[galpinos]

It did make me really want to go bouldering.

Now that made I larf.

[galpinos]

He (and Brette Harrington) seem to get a fair bit of coverage in Alpinist. He also got a mention on UKC re his recent soling efforts in Scotland and his Stanley Wall Triple but you're right, he's not well known this side of the pond

[petejh]

Great mindset and attitude. Love it.

He (and Brette Harrington) seem to get a fair bit of coverage in Alpinist. He also got a mention on UKC re his recent soling efforts in Scotland and his Stanley Wall Triple but you're right, he's not well known this side of the pond

No slight meant (as if anyone could or should towards such a genuine guy and a ledge already at twenty) but it is interesting to me that he needed to be rescued from Darth Vadar - a not particularly nails route.  Interesting when you consider the much harder (on paper) terrain he soloed in the lead up to Scotland; and a reminder that no-one is superhuman.

[Johnny Brown]

Interesting piece on Outside about the Iceland rescue and the wider implications of competency vs marketing. I didn't realise Renan was filming them, also manages to skip (probably wisely) the privilege aspect the UK media were so keen on.

http://www.outsideonline.com/2070866/social-media-screwing-over-explorers-iceland-coldest-crossing

[SA Chris]

it is interesting to me that he needed to be rescued from Darth Vadar - a not particularly nails route.  Interesting when you consider the much harder (on paper) terrain he soloed in the lead up to Scotland; and a reminder that no-one is superhuman.

Could have been down to many things though; out of condition, one harder move just above what is normally bomber gear, coarseness of winter grading, or simply that the bubble just burst.

[petejh]

Interesting piece on Outside about the Iceland rescue and the wider implications of competency vs marketing. I didn't realise Renan was filming them, also manages to skip (probably wisely) the privilege aspect the UK media were so keen on.

http://www.outsideonline.com/2070866/social-media-screwing-over-explorers-iceland-coldest-crossing

From that article,

Have we reached a point where it is more important for adventurers to be shrewd with presentation than proven in hardcore mountain environments?

Important for what? -

Profile? Being regarded as 'a good climber' by thousands of irrelevant punters who's views don't hold any personal worth? - I'd imagine yes.
Leaving a legacy of visionary hard climbs? Being respected and deemed a great climber by other great climbers and by knowledgeable well-traveled peers (not an internet audience)? - Surely no. Deeds will always speak louder than words over the long term. I hope!

My rough heuristic: if something doesn't appear on my non-facebook, non-twitter and non-instagram equipped radar then self-evidently it isn't worth me paying any attention to. Not that I'm unaware about a lot about of what's happening 'in climbing' but that comes from having spent lots of time in lots of places with lots of people. I'm of the mind that news editors should be similarly experienced and deliberately blinkered. I think this probably happens with most editors: Climb, Alpinist etc. - I remember Ian Parnell telling me about the number of requests he refuses each month from attention-seeking climbers seeking coverage of their non-significant sponsored/charity ascent of '8000m peak xyz' or 'climb abc'.

I like to think anyone who knows a thing or two knows who most of the truly cutting edge wads are, in the various disciplines of climbing. It doesn't go in line with who are working hard developing their profiles. Probably helps to keep a clear mind by deliberately avoiding FBing/twittering though, a theme that seems to be cropping up more and more.

[petejh]

it is interesting to me that he needed to be rescued from Darth Vadar - a not particularly nails route.  Interesting when you consider the much harder (on paper) terrain he soloed in the lead up to Scotland; and a reminder that no-one is superhuman.

Could have been down to many things though; out of condition, one harder move just above what is normally bomber gear, coarseness of winter grading, or simply that the bubble just burst.

Yeah it could have been any of those things. It's just noteworthy that none of those things happened on the terrain he soloed prior to Scotland , and then they did on DV

Actually, thinking about it I suppose it hints that you hear about the successful solo's when things go plumy, but not the wise bailings when things aren't right. Just this time it was a busy Ben on a meet. To me the bailings highlight well the sketchiness and skill involved in hard soloing, #fuckthat