[a dense loner]

What I want to know is who shot the cunt?

[Duma]

Very good

[r2d2]

I'm guessing you just don't get JR

Is this a division between those that know they don't get JR and those who don't know that they don't get JR

So who doesn't get JR then?

[cjsheps]

I'm usually one for the poetic stuff, but I thought that article was a complete pile.

The gist seem to be "John Redhead goes and fucks around in a muddy quarry and thinks that anyone who doesn't is ruining his muddy quarry fucking-around". Well sorry John, but most of my best friends have had their life enriched by the "clean" sport climbing culture. The wall-style "climbing by numbers" he frequently criticises is far less constrictive than his all-or-nothing singular vision for climbing culture.

For all his incredible acomplishments back in the day, he comes across as a bitter old man. If you don't like Beris anymore, fucking move. Take your sledgehammer to some Scottish highland and complain from there.

[bendavison]

I'm usually one for the poetic stuff, but I thought that article was a complete pile.

The gist seem to be "John Redhead goes and fucks around in a muddy quarry and thinks that anyone who doesn't is ruining his muddy quarry fucking-around". Well sorry John, but most of my best friends have had their life enriched by the "clean" sport climbing culture. The wall-style "climbing by numbers" he frequently criticises is far less constrictive than his all-or-nothing singular vision for climbing culture.

For all his incredible acomplishments back in the day, he comes across as a bitter old man. If you don't like Beris anymore, fucking move. Take your sledgehammer to some Scottish highland and complain from there.

Well said. Why did I bother to skim read that drivel? It's like reading a bloody tabloid written by someone with a strong aversion to clarity.

[Oldmanmatt]

I'm guessing you just don't get JR

Haha that's pretty patronising

I don't find it so, even if it was meant to be.

We can all read (despite the authors best efforts to prevent that).
However, what I read was the bastard child of Victor Meldrew and a Thesaurus, on acid, during a Psychotic break.

If it was intended as proselytising a better "way", it failed singularly; it's obscurity damning it to all but the ears of the converted.

[r2d2]

It's like a thesaurus on acid, on acid

[Doylo]

I don't like purple blobs either.

[Oldmanmatt]

I don't like purple blobs either.

Stick to the red ones then. [emoji12]

[submaximal gains]

This is a funny response to a very similiar JR rant from years ago that seems worth putting here

http://footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/he-who-fell-to-earth-climbers-tale.html

[Mumra]

I'm guessing you just don't get JR

Haha that's pretty patronising

I can be more patronising than that you turd

[petejh]

https://medium.com/@georgieabel/confessions-of-a-spray-queen-87c7abc5d8e0#.6aovs7gor


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

One of the most shit-awful pieces of writing I've ever read on this topic and an example of the downside of the disappearance of editorial filters in the age of social media/blogs etc. Thanks OMM 

The TLDR basically amounts to 'I like what I'm doing and I'm not listening nah na na naa na'.
 

[fried]

But she got lots of 'likes' from teenage girls which is the important thing.

[slackline]

But she got lots of 'likes' from teenage girls which is the important thing.

Metrics at bottom only indicate 36 "Likes" and 15 "Comments" and whilst you can see the username of those who have commented I can't see how you determine the age and gender of those who "Liked" the article? 

[36chambers]

https://medium.com/@georgieabel/confessions-of-a-spray-queen-87c7abc5d8e0#.6aovs7gor

This kind of article makes me wish I was well-read in psychology.

my personal highlights include:

"3. It’s hard to understand the point of view of a Spray Queen when you yourself are not a Spray Queen"

"It’s also cool to see companies choosing to give free gear to someone who doesn’t climb 5.15. It’s a very rebellious, fringe, punk rock way of doing things. And that’s totally in line with the personality of our sport."

For me, the crème de la crème was saved until the very last line.

"We just love rock climbing. And you’re gonna hear about it."

[Nibile]

But she got lots of 'likes' from teenage girls which is the important thing.

Metrics at bottom only indicate 36 "Likes" and 15 "Comments" and whilst you can see the username of those who have commented I can't see how you determine the age and gender of those who "Liked" the article? 

Slackline, some people have something called "imagination" and something called "irony". Sometimes these qualities are used together, to try and raise a smile to make our sad lives less sad.
I think the above is an example of what I'm talking about. But I have no proof.
 

[Duncan campbell]

This is a funny response to a very similiar JR rant from years ago that seems worth putting here

http://footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/he-who-fell-to-earth-climbers-tale.html

Such a good piece by one of today's strongest, boldest climbers! I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with Redhead - on one hand I am in awe at the things he put up back in the day and aspire (mainly in my dreams) to do his routes, but its his rants about stuff that and his "holier than thou" attitude that pisses me off. I really hate people who preach about how others should live their lives when those others aren't harming anyone. lest we not forget he bolted some sport routes on the slate!


However, he does sort of help me out in my previous argumentation on this thread, as basically here is someone who is condemning many of those who previously condemned others who they felt didn't fit in with 'the spirit of climbing'. To my mind proving what a load of  that argument is as its a total sliding scale!!

Climbing is a broad church as long as you can do what you want in the way you want, let everyone else get on with what they are doing...

[Will Hunt]

I like the Caff/Cosmic Moondog/Spacedog (who is that btw?) article more.
I think there is a place for people like John. Climbing needs its nutters to keep things interesting. I'm not saying we should all adopt his views wholeheartedly and he's flat wrong about plenty of things, but I appreciate that by perching on the extreme end of one side of the seesaw, he helps balance out the hashtag spew going on on the opposite side.

[Duncan campbell]

Yeah I'd agree with that statement.

Cosmic Moondog is Craig Smith I believe...

[andy popp]

Craig is Cosmic Spacedog on FB but have no idea if he is the co-author of that piece - I can well believe he might be though.

[Rocksteady]

I respect Redhead's climbing achievements. But he's the head shaman of a particular sect of climber/person who likes to mythologise their weekends.

So going trad climbing becomes slaying ones inner demons and having an adventure on the margins of the mind. There is an element of truth in that. But there's also a lot of prolix baloney.

On the other hand, I'd like if he sat at the desk next to me at work because the 'what did you do at the weekend' conversation would be a lot more surprising.

[Oldmanmatt]

https://medium.com/@georgieabel/confessions-of-a-spray-queen-87c7abc5d8e0#.6aovs7gor

This kind of article makes me wish I was well-read in psychology.

my personal highlights include:

"3. It’s hard to understand the point of view of a Spray Queen when you yourself are not a Spray Queen"

"It’s also cool to see companies choosing to give free gear to someone who doesn’t climb 5.15. It’s a very rebellious, fringe, punk rock way of doing things. And that’s totally in line with the personality of our sport."

For me, the crème de la crème was saved until the very last line.

"We just love rock climbing. And you’re gonna hear about it."

Their audience is that which has chosen to be such, no more no less.
If you don't follow them, you don't get covered in their spray.
This applies equally to the companies that "sponsor" them.

That "sponsorship" hardly warrants the name and has zero impact on more serious support for those at the cutting edge.

JR's assumed right to protect and direct "his" holy, spiritual, all eclipsing Way-of-the-true-climber is equally banal and meaningless.

They are both shouting, on social media, "This is what makes me happy! Look at me! Give me affirmation!".

If anything, the Spray Queen is more honest.

[lagerstarfish]

but we all know which one has the biggest penis

and that's what counts

[fried]

but we all know which one has the biggest penis

and that's what counts

Do you have any specific data to prove that? 

[lagerstarfish]

I've seen a paper-mache model of JR's piece