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[Peak][Stanage High Neb][~6B, ~7B] (Read 2717 times)

ellis

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[Peak][Stanage High Neb][~6B, ~7B]
February 24, 2016, 08:46:07 am
Amazing conditions out there. A couple of surprising finds up at High Neb to throw into the mix:

High Neb Boa ~6B
The right arete of High Neb Buttress on its right side, using the arete for the L and a pebble for the R to gain an obvious toe hold.

Dunge Master ~7B
The wall left of Kelly's Variation using marginal crimps in a vague seam to slap the sloping break. An obsession for nearly a year and probably the hardest move I've done.

Sorry about the approximate grades, I've not been getting out much. Would be interested in opinions, especially if they're higher!

r-man

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#1 Re: [Peak][Stanage High Neb][~6B, ~7B]
February 26, 2016, 12:13:37 pm
Good effort Ellis!

grimer

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#2 Re: [Peak][Stanage High Neb][~6B, ~7B]
February 26, 2016, 12:29:44 pm
Good job Ellis.

El Mocho

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#3 Re: [Peak][Stanage High Neb][~6B, ~7B]
February 29, 2016, 05:41:23 pm
Dunge Master ~7B
The wall left of Kelly's Variation using marginal crimps in a vague seam to slap the sloping break. An obsession for nearly a year and probably the hardest move I've done

Went and did this today, def a hard move but I think 7B is about right. Conditions were pretty good so maybe worth a +...  Wasn't totally sure where you started, on tip toe with L hand on the poor crimp? That's how I did it. I then did a v. low sit start to it starting on 2 little pockets below the little break which is below the  poor crimp. Sat on pads you could pos start in the break but I didn't. About 7B+/C

The original is a good move, nice rock.

ellis

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#4 Re: [Peak][Stanage High Neb][~6B, ~7B]
March 01, 2016, 06:54:42 am
Cheers!

I got my L toe on with hands lower then reached up to the crimps, and pulled on to get the R foothold.

Shows that good things can come to those who belay SPSA trainees on Severes  :)

ellis

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#5 Re: [Peak][Stanage High Neb][~6B, ~7B]
March 01, 2016, 07:08:17 am
Good work with the sitter. Dave Musgrove also did a left hand variation on Sunday, out to the hold on the L arete, he reckons a similar grade.

 

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