[Muenchener]

STG (Easter): under 80kg. This week's average 83.1, up 0.4  Kochel 6C trav project.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: 40 minutes shoulder mobility & core
T: Too late at work to be able to do a family outing to the wall with M jnr. So ... Beastmaker. Am currently in PE phase, therefore: repeaters? Hard work, painful, low chance of feelings of success/fulfillment/achievement. Strength maintenance via max hangs? Hard work, enjoyable, higher chance of feelings of success etc.
 
Did max hangs. Matched previous bests on most things, enjoyed them.
W: Bike one hour
T: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Light bouldering to warm up, 5 redpoint goes on hard circuits then 5 aerocap (?) laps on easier circuits. The latter probably not easy enough.
F: Bike one hour
S: Boulderwelt. An hour's bouldering with M jnr, fairly relaxed up to around onsight level, then half a dozen aerocap laps on circuits 6a to 6b.
   Bike to & from the wall about an hour
S: Snowboarding, Spitzingsee with M jnr.

[tomtom]

M > W work. Lovely conditions and could t get out.

Th: hoped to get out but too much to do in prep for an early start on Friday off to Tenerife for fieldwork. Went to the Depot at lunchtime for a quilt last fix before heading away. Managed to twist my knee (something went twang) on #19 of the comp circuit felt bad pressing up on the leg from low so went home.

Fr > Su Tenerife. After a couple of painful days knee has eased off thank god. Lots of snow up in the caldera but there won't be any climbing for a week... Took a portable fingerboard but nowhere to hang it in the hotel - so been doing some experimental therabanding

[tomtom]

M > W work. Lovely conditions and could t get out.

Th: hoped to get out but too much to do in prep for an early start on Friday off to Tenerife for fieldwork. Went to the Depot at lunchtime for a quilt last fix before heading away. Managed to twist my knee (something went twang) on #19 of the comp circuit felt bad pressing up on the leg from low so went home.

Fr > Su Tenerife. After a couple of painful days knee has eased off thank god. Lots of snow up in the caldera but there won't be any climbing for a week... Took a portable fingerboard but nowhere to hang it in the hotel - so been doing some experimental therabanding

[the_dom]

Mon: Lunchtime deadlifts - 3/3/3, PM Hangboard - max hangs
Tues: Trail run
Wed: Deadlifts over lunch (5/3/1) - very solid session. Hangboard in the afternoon - max hangs.
Thurs: Hangboard and core
Fri: Rest day
Sat: Hangboard - max hangs and one arms, deadlifts (5/3/1)
Sun: First day bouldering in 2 weeks. Mellow 90 mins indoors, but shoulder held up. Trail run in the evening.

Solid week.

[Footwork]

Been feeling like fighting a cold all week

Mon Wrecked from Scotland. Felt like I was surfacing from a warm bath all day. Bliss
Tues Sorted out my calves with some serious prodding. Some physio for shoulder
Weds Turned up to Physio after cycling in grim piss like snow at half 7 to be told it was actually on Friday.
Luckily other 8am didn't show and I took the slot. Coming to an end of his knowledge. Sadly shoulder is nowhere near fixed and after my final session in 6 weeks it will be a journey if self discovery and patience. I just wish I knew what the hell was going on 
Thurs Stretching
Fri Session at the Depot on the circuit board 6a-6c round and round. Shoulder physio after.
Sat Weather was complete rubbish
Sun Did nothing, physio

Sweets bought: zero

[shark]

Thanks Muenchener

11.3-4

M. Late PM. Cloudy cold and Keith Sharples kept texting me. Headed out to Remergence to join him. Met Keith C at car park At Remergence with Joble and Emma there too. Keith decided it was too cold and went home. Bouldered with Keith C and took a look at Backstreet Mime Artist - looks amazing. Got very close to holding left slot on Blind Date several times. As it was getting dark worked top off a ladder. Tall Tom showed as I was leaving.
T.
W. Blizzard on M62 but better at Malham though lots of run off - then blue skies and tops off. Led Cons then T'Red it 2x then 3x. Oak was drying and Nick persuaded me to get on it. Super apprehensive. Just tried it from throw upwards Moves went OK - bit glassy. 3 goes on it. 4th go bailed as got too cold. Led Cons to get draws back then T'red it x3
T. Eve Shoulder mobilty yoga shizzle
F.
S. eatswood. Unpromising day with snow etc. Nick C and Robin bailed on me. I was not with it - too much gin night before. Forgot food and drinks. At crag discovered I had only packed one shoe. Fortunately the left. Managed to cope by lacing my approach shoe tight. Worked on the Reverse. Weather got nice. A guy called Dave (from Lichfield ) showed. The worst thing about Dave was that he had small feet. He managed the Reverse. I didn't.
S.
 
Was intending to go to Malham tomorrow but its wet so going to eatswood again instead. With both shoes. Ordered a set (pair?) of rings.

[Muenchener]

Ordered a set (pair?) of rings.

Normally, yes.

[csl]

STG
Rehab Finger - going well - still definately injured, but starting to push it a little further each session.
Be able to climb in Siurana - 10th March - pretty confident I'll be ok, just have to make sure not to crimp.

MTG - June
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, and climb Privilege du Serpent

LTG - End of Year
8a

Mon

Easyish boulders as finger was feeling a tad tender. Managed a couple off v3-5 circuit.
10 on 10 off Aerocap for an hour

Wed

Did 8 V3-5 Circuit and a couple from the 4-6
Rings

Circuit of:
One legged tucked front lever
Tucked front lever pullups
offset pullups
pressups
ring i's
x2

Fri

Boulders
Tried a couple from the V5-7 circuit - did one in halves and off the last move of another. Repeated a few V4-6 and 3-5.
Aerocap - 5 on 5 off, higher intensity for an hour
Same ring circuit as Wednesday.


good week. Pushing the finger a little further with no real pain during the session, need to get back on the training program as only 12 weeks to Ceuse. Will have 2 sessions training this week and then 4 days in Siurana over the weekend.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training, 2 local boulder projects that may be winter doable - The Loony project(8A? stand, and 8B/+? sit) and the Rutted Project(8B+?ish), also Arkenstone project(8A?)
MTG - 1 arm pull-up, 1-arm hang BM2K middle lower slot, Spotted Dick Project,
LTG - To Bolt...

M - Work, then ended up  on way home. 
T - 
W - Feeling better, but still recovering
T - Started doing a MAW workout, but quit after warmup.  Still no energy
F -  Feeling much much better, went to small local boulder comp.  After mixup with scoring rules ended up sneaking into second-should've won it.
S -  Bouldered at other local wall, good session
S -  routes at wall.  good session

Not anything close to what I planned for the week, but getting sick and local comps meant it was never going to be the week I planned.   

[ashtond6]

M- rest/physio
T - broomgrove wall, did in 3 sections
W - rest
T - Broomgrove, now done in two overlapping sections. I'm sure that crux in isolation is 7A!
F - rest
S - ridiculously hungover, took a friend to yarn yarncliffe for his first ever route. Then minus ten was wet, then went to tegness quarry to try the new 7As but they were wet too!
S - indoor stamina training, got spanked. Did 2 laps of 6a, x2 laps 6a+, x2 laps 6b, almost x2 laps 6c , x2 laps 6b+, couldn't even do the moves on a 6c+, x2 labs 6b, failed 7a, failed 6a+! So 14 pitches? God I'm crap at indoor routes

2 weeks to Spain

[a dense loner]

Wait a minute you took a friend to yarncliffe for his first route then you took him to stoney? My god man is he still a friend?

[shark]

Ordered a set (pair?) of rings.

Normally, yes.

Wasn't sure what the collective noun was.

[filz]

M - worked till late. Quick easy session: loaded carries, plank, hiit
T - board climbing with friends 2h. Tried some random problems and circuits.
W - morning workout: ring planks, dips, L-sits, tuck planche, tuck front lever pull ups. Super tired from board climbing
T - fb max hangs. Weighted pull ups, finishers
F - board climbing 1h
S - same as Thursday. fb max hangs, weighted pull ups, finishers
S - climbing on Nibs' board with friends. Good session despite being tired. Topped my first problem YYFY

[36chambers]

STG: training for Font
MTG: Yorkshire Classics
LTG: 8B

M:
T: Sports massage for my back. Indoors, felt pretty weak.
W: Spontaneous sunset session at Almscliff, it was dry but cold, windy and miserable. Having previously thought I had nailed the beta for exorcist, I've realised I can climb it in two halves but there's one foot movement linking said halves I've yet to figure out. Should have taken the rest day.   
T: Indoors. Easing back into the 30 and 50. Good session.
F:
S: Indoors at a new venue, unorchestrated. 
S: Called in at Shipley Glen as I was passing by. Luckily caught the good, late afternoon, conditions and somehow managed to drag myself up Red Baron Roof 7c+. Finally done something hard that's not at the cliff \o/

Been a tad slack on the training front these past two weeks due to the good weather. However, good conditions > training, all day everyday.

[ashtond6]

Wait a minute you took a friend to yarncliffe for his first route then you took him to stoney? My god man is he still a friend?

Hahaha! Yeah good point, we went to yarncliffe then he had to get a train...

On another note, I thought minus ten was always dry! I've been at least 5 times this year and it's been wet every time 

[TobyD]

at Almscliff, it was dry but cold, windy and miserable.

is it ever anything else?

[TobyD]

Was intending to go to Malham tomorrow but its wet

do you mean just the oak, or most of the crag?

[T_B]

84.8Kg

M -
T - School lunch. Mainly Pink circuit sections. Worked out a good sequence for coming back under the arête at the end. P.M. Rings, avoiding anything too wrist tweaky
W - Wrist worse that ever - no more rings  Foundry lunch - routes up to 6c+. Shouldn't have really.
T - P.M. Run Cutthroat Bridge - Back Tor return. 12Km / 275m. Amazing clear connies - best run yet.
F -
S - A.M. Run Limb Valley - Houndkirk return in mud and snow. 16.3Km / 300m. Ace. Only the second time I've ever run more than 10 miles - hanging on for the last few Km and bad ankle starting to pack in. P.M. F/Board repeaters. 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, 1 x 6 x 7 back 3 (first time I've managed this since pulley injury), 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp on 15mm edge.
S -

Bl*ody wrist! Such a specific injury only set off by certain things (rings mainly). Anyway, going to have to be very careful early on this week, then rest for CWIF early morning session on Saturday. 3 weeks till Font so really need to get wrist sorted. Will try and fit a run in somewhere.

[shark]

Was intending to go to Malham tomorrow but its wet

do you mean just the oak, or most of the crag?

Most of the crag is affected by run off - see Rob Greenwood and Robert Fenton's photos from yesterday on the FB Conditions Lifts and Partners page

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - board projects.

Mon - static  dumbbell complex x2. Strong! Cleans, snatch pulls.
Tue - rest.
Wed - BM max. Good! Rings, snatch pulls, overhead carry.
Thu - light weights, rings, overhead and shoulder carry 2'+1', hard. Climbing class.
Fri - hill sprints x8.
Sat - board climbing, tired. Too much recruitment before. Cleans, snatch pulls finisher. Rings. Heavy.
Sun - board climbing with friends, good vibes, good power, if a bit tired. Too much volume for sure. Mega fun though. Need some rest.

First week of new schedule, board and weights, and I went all in. Feeling good, but tired. Seems that focusing on speed and low reps is paying off. Feeling quite brutal.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Ticked all bar 1. Ended with dynos. Campus, lever and light fingerboard after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. All bar 1 again and then made own problems. Some tough ones that I barely did after alot of working. Campus, leaver and light fingerboard.
F: Middle Cove. Have been wanting to find some potential hard-ish highball to work on. So have been perusing local sport/trad crags for something suitable. Think I've found it... Put up by Mike Law in 1988 as a top rope only route (now has 2 extra carrots), 7m high, slightly overhanging, all on small pockets and sidepulls, blind deadpoint crux at the top and gets 26 (7b+)...... Standard Mikl grading... Haha. Threw rope on it and worked out most of the moves but definitely didn't get them all. Linking them will be a fucking nightmare but definitley one to work on (and only 15min away), so will frequent quite abit before the pads come out for this one.... :D
Also finished the arvo with a couple of easy solos.
S: Work.
S: Black Cave. Quick warm up then jumped back onto The Plunge V9/10. Quickly did through to the dyno (last move), and then set about working that move. Alot of dabs (cave is maybe shoulder height) and its an all points double dyno backwards to the lip... Closest I came was a minor scrape-age dab but no luck. Finished off lapping a fun V6.


Highball project.....




The Plunge. Too low.

[Wood FT]

Mon -ill
Tue - ill
Wed - Awesome walls, 7 routes (6b+ - 7a) great session considering illness.
Thu - Works, circuit board, 5 goes round yellow 7b failing 3/4 on all but first go. few problems after but had no little power left. not sure if this was a good session or not.
Fri - more
Sat - none
Sun - climbing

enjoying the length of the AW routes and am chompin' at the bit for Spain, going to ramp up volume this week then relax week after. Very surprised at ability on Wednesday after crippling cold at start of week. Weight ok.

[duncan]

STG: rehab. finger & knee
MTG: tbc according to above
LTG: the usual LH+F.

M - Hip routine - squats, step-ups etc.
T - Westway: 7 x 3 routes to 6a+ with buddy-tape.
W - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.
T - Westway: bouldering, warm up inc. V0/1 x10; V1/2 x10. Trying big holds, steeper stuff to go easy on the finger. Felt left knee go during dropped knee move, last problem of the evening. Hobbled home. Ice etc.
F - Minor injuries unit in hospital X followed by A&E in hospital Y. Consensus is most probably medial meniscus tear, ACL and MCL intact, (I have a previous PCL injury and laxity in that knee, probably contributing to the injury) could be worse I suppose. Orthopaedic appointment in a week (Yay for the NHS!).
S - Pull-ups and shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.
S - Fingerboard, foot-on big slots and foot-off jugs. Crutch walking, been doing dips regularly for the last 6 months, shoulders feel really strong!

Fuckity, fuk, fuk, fukx. First time bouldering for ~5 months. I was feeling quite pleased with myself too, finger holding up, making a conscious effort to be a bit more creative with my footwork too, clearly I should stick to ledge shuffling. I blame Ondra.

Plan: drown sorrows/comfort eat. Footless madness continue being patient and gradually Increase load on the finger. Start knee rehab. Get scan booked. Assess progress in a couple of weeks before making longer-term plans.

[Duma]

S - ...Nibs' board... Topped my first problem YYFY

 

[SA Chris]

M- boulder session. OK did a few things, then a couple of routes to finish off - confirmed what I suspects - no stamina.
T - worked at home
W - nothing
T - worked at home
F - boulder session. OK session.
S - short walk in arvo with kids. Baltic
S - short walk in morning with kids. Baltic. Then out for a walk in evening taking aurora pics - still baltic. 

[csl]

Felt left knee go during dropped knee move...

Fuckity, fuk, fuk, fukx.

Shit, bad news Duncan! Sorry to hear it and hope recovery goes well

[36chambers]

at Almscliff, it was dry but cold, windy and miserable.

is it ever anything else?

On the Almscliff miserability scale, this particular instance was miserable enough for me to pass comment, i.e. pretty bloody miserable. Character building, as my mum would say.

On the way up we even turned back once before deciding to at least "have a look". My girlfriend (who was previously psyched to climb that day) then spent the next 40 minutes curled up, in a ball, in her down jacket at the back of DWR, while I failed to warm up, before we finally called it a day. Just as the cliff was engulfed by somber rainclouds.

[AJM]

Felt left knee go during dropped knee move...

Fuckity, fuk, fuk, fukx.

Shit, bad news Duncan! Sorry to hear it and hope recovery goes well

+1 - swift recovery...

[Coops_13]

STG: 7b/7b+ in Slovenia, heal fingers/wrist
MTG: Get on solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

M: Indoors, not an awful lot of psyche...
T: Nothing.
W: Nothing.
T: Indoors, short session, felt pretty strong on the PE I was doing.
F: Nothing
S: Brean in morning, got Roof of Inequity 7a+ 1st RP, had a play on Chulilla, fair way off that. Didn't give it a burn due to being scared of hurting my fingers more on those poppy moves. Went to Cheddar and started working Insatiable 7b+.
S: Cheddar, Insatiable was wet Puntered on a couple of other climbs waiting for it to dry. Then crushed it! First 7b+ YYFY! Finished off getting flash-pumped but succeeding to flash a very poor 7a...

[nai]

vSTG - week long trip WC 20/3
STG - crushage during April & June peaks


M - AM - Fingerboard & AnCap
     PM - HI AeroCap
     Eve - core

T - AM - weighted pullups. AeroPow Foot on Campussing
     PM - LI AeroCap

w rest

Th - AM Boresome Walls -  AeroPow, decent workout, managed to get very, very pumped.
        Eve - threat of school closure meant doing the bouldering workout, hard work with tired arms and sore skin, likely a bit sub optimal

F - Snow didn't happen - schooled by Works system board - AnCap,  LI AeroCap + core.

S rest

S Fingerboard & pullups

Another 1kg lost this week, 2.5kg dropped in all now.

Spain now definitely off but still have the week to get away, currently musing whether to doss around the UK trying to pick up partners and bouldering it not, or heading out to Font to try and pick up partners and gatecrashing folks working stuff if not.

[cheque]

Sorry to hear that Duncan, I hope it's not too bad.

Due to moving cities my entire on this thread are going to be even more boring than usual for a bit... probably means my grit bouldering goal will fail too. 

STG- 7s (at this point I'd settle for 6C)/ Extremes on grit this season.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016 is the ideal- may have to settle for "finish film without slipping further into punterdom" though.
LTG- 8a

M- Rest.

Tu- Notts Depot. Tried White (traditionally the hardest circuit) problems- did two! I'd never done a white before so I'm psyched. Ironically this comes a day after new Orange problems had been set so I'm still yet to do a problem off the hardest circuit, but this is definite confirmation of improvement.

W- Rest.

Th- Notts Depot. New pink (comp circuit) problems. This set are, by all acounts, much harder than usual, which is all good with me. Managed up to 22 of 30, only slightly less than normal for the first session but defnitely had to try harder earlier.

F- Rest.

Sa- Moving. Lifted some boxes.

Su- Moving. Shifted my vinyl collection, which I'm sure is eliciting a grimace from anyone on here who's ever done it- my collection is in 4 figures. I use the "Bags for Life" method, which is definitely some sort of shoulder training  . Whether that's the type of training that's good antagonist work or the type of stuff that gives you injuries remains to be seen.

[fried]

Be careful with those knees folks.

M - Rest
T - Indoors, climbed like a sack of potatoes, tired, gave up.
W- Rest
Th - Indoors, new reset at old wall, tired again, not motivated, but had an O.K session
F - Nothing
Sa - Cooked currys all day.
Su - Lay on the sofa with a hangover.

NNFN - The prez has no room left in the bivouac for Easter. It'll just be a  couple of day trips for me.

[a dense loner]

T_B have you tried the rings for girls and small children? Aka trx, the bar grip may be better for your wrists? For more ring-like stuff try and get the bottom,where it straps to the handle, as low as possible, this will make the exercises harder. As in the further the handles are from the apex of the 2 slings the better.

Girls and small children who are gymnasts are excluded from the above!

[tomtom]

Sorry to hear about the knee Duncan

[T_B]

T_B have you tried the rings for girls and small children? Aka trx, the bar grip may be better for your wrists? For more ring-like stuff try and get the bottom,where it straps to the handle, as low as possible, this will make the exercises harder. As in the further the handles are from the apex of the 2 slings the better.

Girls and small children who are gymnasts are excluded from the above!

Our rings at home are quite fat, fatter than the ones at the Schoolroom. It doesn't hurt when I do stuff, so not sure it's the ring as such. I think it's just pushing exercises generally. It's getting worse unfortunately, though doesn't seem to mind straight down pulling on a F/board, so maybe I'll stick to that. Annoying as my finger is now totally sorted!

[Dolly]

M HIT and then Pilates
T My leg hurt too much to climb on the wave so went on the Furnace board. First time I've trained on a board for ages and found it nails. I need to do more. HIT later
W Kettlebell and dumbbell HIT. Tried spiderman press ups for the first time and couldn't complete a set of 10. Found them desperately hard.
T 10 routes top roped at gym
F Gym core
S Gym core hoping to save myself for climbing on Sunday
S Walk around Apparent North. Lots of snow, but too wet to climb


Feel like I've hardly climbed last week - will remedy that this week

[nai]

First time I've trained on a board for ages and found it nails. I need to do more.

Exactly how I felt on the Works board.  Only 5 degrees steeper than my home board but in a totally different league. Like trying to switch to lime from grit, completely different, completely spanked.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: Rest, broken after Sunday.
Tue: Rest.
Wed: Rest. Getting ill (again )
Thu: Max hangs. Despite feeling rubbish managed an ok-ish session. Proceeded to feel more ill throughout the day.
Fri: Unwisely decided to try going to TCA as was feeling a bit better. Pootled on easy stuff, had coffee, went home.
Sat: Rest.
Sun: Max hangs. Really pleased, feeling much better and managed to get a new pb - 16kg for 10s on 16mm edge, not dropping form (unlike previously).

Good end to the week; shame about being ill again, although relieved that recovery seems to have been fairly swift.

Ordered a set (pair?) of rings.

Just got some on Saturday. Had a brief crack at some flys etc - was frankly humbling!

[shurt]

STG: do some cool stuff in Spain
MTG: 7b+
LTG: 8a

Totally forgot to make a note of what I was doing this last week but I have managed a fair bit of stuff even though not been feeling that motivated.
Did some Power Endurance stuff on fingerboard, tried some frenchies (I was shit at them), did some other more pure stamina stuff on fingerboard. All a bit scattergun to be honest. I think I'm bored and desperate to climb outside. Its been quite a while. Am off to Spain this Thursday and may get to the wall tomorrow so that should be good.


 

[Dolly]

First time I've trained on a board for ages and found it nails. I need to do more.

Exactly how I felt on the Works board.  Only 5 degrees steeper than my home board but in a totally different league. Like trying to switch to lime from grit, completely different, completely spanked.

I think its a) because its pure power - technique can (not necessarily does) have less effect and b) its steep, so your core is properly worked. I usually do at least one board  sess a week, 2 if I'm on my board. I still think its the best way to get bouldering strong

[nai]

technique

cheating on a board isn't it?

[rodma]

two in one

m: rest
t: weights
w: wall with campus
t: weights
f: rest
s: mrs rodma is looking after the wee one (ill) so i can get out. first day on rock since the early autumn, went to Bowden and flailed around a bit. did v-crimps for the first time since the roof jug was annihilated
completely overdid it on the mileage front and have a very tight and tired lower back from so much cave flailure
s: rest

m: rest
t: still resting, but have a good stretch
w: wall with campus, feel a lot better/stronger
t: rest:
f: rest
s: wall session, resonably strong
s: have a day at home with the wee one to let mrs rodma out on rock, to reciprocate for the previous weekend.

been a hectic couple of weeks work-wise and with the wee one teething and being generally ill. my shoulders have finally settled down and i now have no discomfort in either shoulder, but the pull on my left side is still a little hampered.

[webbo]

Mon. Dumbbells followed by deadhanging 7 different grips increased added weight to 16lbs 3 sets of 5 secs on each grip. Followed by the crusher version of repeaters 5 sec on 5 secs off X 5 did these on the big slots but with cardboard in them to make smaller 5 sets 3 mins rest between sets with16 lb added.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Same as mon.
Thu. Starting with cold so nothing
Fri. Cold better so same as mon and wed.
Sat cold back
Sun still feel shit.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - Max Hangs - 20mm incut, half crimp.
Progressive Set:
10sec (0kg), 10sec (2.5kg), 10sec (5kg)
Main Set (all 10kg added):
9sec, 9sec, 7sec, 7sec

T: Lunch: 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

W: Lunch - 3 x 10 Shoulder Rotations (5kg)
3 x 10 Bent over flys (10kg)
3 x 20 sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Eve: Plas Power - 20 min ARC trav warm-up

20' Board - Repeated 7A and 7A+, tried a new problem my mate put up, complete anti-style - Drop-knees and a sloping pinch, been awhile since I've not done anything on this board in a session.

45' Board - Repeated 6C+, tried project from last week. Did all the moves this time and linked to 2nd to last move, 2 big cut loose moves lots of power required! Keen to finish this off tomorrow...

T:  Lunch: 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Plas Power - 15min ARC trav warm-up

20' Board - Managed to do my mates problem that I tried yesterday, felt the living end, complete anti-style on a flat wide wooden pinch...

45' Board - Repeated 6C+. Psyched to complete the project we had on there too that I was trying yesterday, 3rd session. 3 big moves, ~7A+

Tried some random moves, got some good ones to turn into full projects.

Felt good 2nd day on, I don't do 2 days in a row that often.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Tremeirchion - Did Flag of Iron (6C) in about 10 goes, took ages as I had a nightmare with an undercut at the start which was seeping like crazy and wouldn't dry, water was basicly running down it. Kept soaking my hand making the next move nails.

Tried "Lone Wolf RH" (7A/+), couldn't commit properly to the last move, a smeary rock over deadpoint high off the deck with no spotter. Split 2 tips, fell in the mud and split my trousers open... epic!

Would love to be able to one day do the 7C's there, they look amazing.

New problems on the Plas Power board:

[Nibile]

Nice board action!

[Luke Owens]

Nice board action!

Cheers Nibs, love the board! We've just put a load of screw ons on it this week... brutal!

Using the School Room Moon hold set too which are real nice to climb on.