I'm 15kg+ stronger on 4 finger open hand (chisel) compared to full crimp
I challenge anyone to hang an edge with 4 fingers in a genuinely open-handed manner. All this talk of 4 finger open, or 'open crimp' is dumb. Open crimp is a freakin' oxymoron.Open = drag. Essentially not possible with 4 fingers on an edge unless you have weird finger lengthsNatural = normal position, what you lot probably mean by 'open'. It's not really open.Forced half crimp = what it says on the tinCrimp = what it says on the tin
Quote from: shark on March 04, 2016, 03:12:33 pmI'm 15kg+ stronger on 4 finger open hand (chisel) compared to full crimpI ain't got no figures but like my main Sharkey O says, I'm stronger open than crimp
Quote from: shark on March 04, 2016, 03:12:33 pmI'm 15kg+ stronger on 4 finger open hand (chisel) compared to full crimpabsolute values are meaningless unless you're working out how many pies you can eat should you want to switch between open handing and crimping full time - normalise the values!
infinitely stronger open handed. in fact max hangs half crimp feel so unnatural to me i must be weak as piss on them so really should train them more .......
Can't see why an open had would be stronger!
Quote from: monkoffunk on March 11, 2016, 12:14:32 am Can't see why an open had would be stronger!Err cos I’ve trained open handed for 20+ years and its predominantly the way I climb. (Principals of specificity - I train & climb open handed therefore I have become stronger open handed.)
Re the OP campusing will a pulley injury - you might get away with it on something rounded like the crusher sloper rungs but if its really fecked you are just going to have to suck it up and train something else for a while. (lock offs & weighted pulls on something rounded?) personally I’d be going for option 2!