[cheque]

STG- 7s (at this point I'd settle for 6C)/ Extremes on grit this season.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016 is the ideal- may have to settle for "finish film without slipping further into punterdom" though.

LTG- 8a

M Rest.
 
Tu Notts Depot. Feeling weak and rubbish. No new problems had been set in my grade range so tried repeating hard ones I'd done before and crimpy ones I hadn't.

W Rest. Didn't feel like I'd done much the previous day but seriously sore forearms.

Th Notts Depot. Circuit board- Jesus Christ I've lost fitness. Had to work 6b before doing it, then could only get 50% of the way round the 6c.

F Rest.

Sa Millstone/ Mother Cap. Major breakthrough on Technical Master- I can now get to the flatty every time! Chickened out of the topout though, then the wind changed, Millstone was completely still and the top felt confidence-sappingly greasy every time I got there. Pretty psyched to suddenly be able to climb this problem though. Got on Conan after- fell hitting sloping rubbish at the top a number of times (could get up there every time), checked the top and saw the hold but realised I was about to go through my tips as I scrambled down. Settled for encouraging mate up it- as he's moving to Australia the same time weekend I move to Sheffield this seemed like the priority! He did both this and Technical Master but, when we drove to Higgar at the end of the day, had a meltdown on The Big Slab. Who could leave this kind of fun?

Su Roaches. Glorious weather, awesome conditions. Did loads of easy stuff at the Far Skyline, took photos of routes at Skyline, tried hard powerful problem I'm not strong enough for (Too Drunk), did easy stuff at Attic boulders (just when I think I've been everywhere at the Roaches I find more!) then finished off not doing powerful stuff at Upper Tier. 

More fun being rubbish.

[T_B]

84.3Kg

M - F/Board 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp on Metolius. R hand 8 secs on #14 with 7.5Kgs off. L much weaker (10Kg in #5 for 8 secs). Finished with 10secs no added weight middle 2 on #12 (first time on this since pulley strain).
T - School - lunch. Light session. Did 3 sections of the pink circuit, including the starting crux. Not so good on 50deg. Overall finger sore but felt stronger and felt like I could claw in with fingers generally. P.M. Rings with Mrs T_B & MIA.
W - School early P.M. right wrist tweaky, so had to be careful as couldn't undercut. Linked some sections of the pink circ. Tried white tagged wood up problem on the right, slapping finishing hold.
T - Wrist sore : (
F - F/Board 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, failed on 3 trying back 3. 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp on Metolius with 10Kg added. R hand 5 secs on #14 with 5Kg off, l hand 5 secs on #10 with 5Kg off. 1 x 6 x 7 middle two #7 but hurt, failed on 3 trying front 2 in #7 due to split. 1 x 10secs middle 2 #12. 2 x 10 pull ups and some front lever attempts.
S - P.M. Headtorch run Owler/Higgar/Apparent N/Burbage Edges/Longshaw 10.8Km, 238m. Mistake running Burbage Edges at night at the mo - tough.
S - P.M. Left hand Plantation. Wrist definitely caused by Brad Pit, tried it once to confirm. Did 10 problems mostly around 6c with a "guy that put some wood in a crack", and had a look at Silk Sitter. Great to do some mileage, on a beautiful late afternoon/evening.

2 weeks til CWIF, 4 weeks til Font, 20 weeks til Peru. Climbing training plan gone to sh*t, but running has re-ignited my love of the Peak. Even at night by headtorch 

[Wood FT]

Did 10 problems mostly around 6c with a "guy that put some wood in a crack",

Ron Jeremy?

[Falling Down]

A great week making more progress back to previous form.  With Fatneck's birthday bash coming up I thought I'd better ditch the rope and get on with some bouldering as I was anxious about whether I'd even be able to do any "easy" problems.

S - Westway bouldering.  Felt quite light on the warmup traverse.  8 problems up to V3 feeling pretty good. Flashed four V3's on different angles and flashed a white V3/4 coming out of the steep section.  Tried a Black V4 on the steep bit in the fridge and struggled to complete some of the moves in isolation.

M - Westway bouldering.  Felt battered after yesterday, couldn't finish some of the Pink warm ups in the fridge so top roped some routes up to 6a+ instead to get the blood flowing

T/W - Super sore so worked and rested.

T - Still feeling a bit sore. Had a great session, ended up doing the problem I'd tried on Monday first go; flashed another Black in the fridge and did another tricky one in two overlapping sections.  Finished with some hangs on the board which now feel OK rather than something dangerous to the body.

F - Train up to Runcorn to meet Andy and drive to Abersoch and drink beer and chew the fat with Adam, Jim and Jon.

S - A leisurely start after a fab breakfast from resident chef Jim.  Wandered down to Ysgo feeling really quite anxious about the climbing but enjoying the company of the team, soaking in the amazing surroundings and looking forward to meeting Si and the others gathered for the weekend.  I had a really great day and my anxiety was misplaced.  It was all still there and managed the whole day pacing myself & not getting on anything too hard.  A really rewarding day out, loving the climbing, catching up with old friends, putting faces to names from here and getting to know some great people I'd not met before followed by a long evening bulling in the pub and whisky before bed.

S - A bit hungover... Two breakfasts thanks to Jim's mouthwatering bacon butty skills and then waffles and coffee in Abersoch with two of my best friends and Adam.  We walked down to Talfarach late'ish as some of the scouse team were leaving.  What a place... a crazy jumble of Giants' D&D dice all piled atop one another.  You need a spot on the approach to some of the problems.  I couldn't face the spicy arête as a first problem so pootled about on some easy problems with flattish landings.  Si took us over to the Ministry of Silly Hats which went second try (it gets 6c+ but it's not); then a brilliant undercut arête problem after a few tries that should've gone first go but I kept stepping off for fear of falling higher up and then another brilliant monkey on a pole layback thing and a few tries at the slab to the L of Ministry before packing up and heading out. Watching the team climb well; Choughs wheeling overhead; big Ravens nests on the cliffs above; sunshine and shiny sea; views across to Cilan.  A joyful day topped off with amazing views of Snowdonia frosted with snow in the sunset and a huge murmuration over the A55 near Conway.  Brilliant....

Siurana in ten days so back to some fitness indoors on the ropes.  Very excited to be climbing again.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: Very quick 4x4s session at TCA. Booked flights to Spain for Santa Gadea in June! 
Tue: Max hangs (14kg 16mm 10s).
Wed: TCA, Woody. Long explosive moves.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: TCA again, did some from the 6c-7b circuit. Knackered.
Sat: 4.5km run.
Sun: Neath Abbey bouldering. Great day out, ticked a 7A in a few goes (with an excess of burl and minimal technique), did a sweet 6A slab, ran out of juice to do a rather nice 7B (Techtonics). Next time...

Ok week, feeling pretty drained though; rest required for a few days. Nice to get out at the weekend.

I've been madly sandpapering my tips to try and build up skin. It works really well. Anyone ever tried it?

Yep, do this all the time otherwise I get bloody horrible splits. Does the business.

[Duma]

Sun: Neath Abbey bouldering. did a sweet 6A slab...

Perfect slab? brilliant isn't it?

[petejh]

A great week making more progress back to previous form.  With Fatneck's birthday bash coming up I thought I'd better ditch the rope and get on with some bouldering as I was anxious about whether I'd even be able to do any "easy" problems.

S - Westway bouldering.  Felt quite light on the warmup traverse.  8 problems up to V3 feeling pretty good. Flashed four V3's on different angles and flashed a white V3/4 coming out of the steep section.  Tried a Black V4 on the steep bit in the fridge and struggled to complete some of the moves in isolation.

M - Westway bouldering.  Felt battered after yesterday, couldn't finish some of the Pink warm ups in the fridge so top roped some routes up to 6a+ instead to get the blood flowing

T/W - Super sore so worked and rested.

T - Still feeling a bit sore. Had a great session, ended up doing the problem I'd tried on Monday first go; flashed another Black in the fridge and did another tricky one in two overlapping sections.  Finished with some hangs on the board which now feel OK rather than something dangerous to the body.

F - Train up to Runcorn to meet Andy and drive to Abersoch and drink beer and chew the fat with Adam, Jim and Jon.

S - A leisurely start after a fab breakfast from resident chef Jim.  Wandered down to Ysgo feeling really quite anxious about the climbing but enjoying the company of the team, soaking in the amazing surroundings and looking forward to meeting Si and the others gathered for the weekend.  I had a really great day and my anxiety was misplaced.  It was all still there and managed the whole day pacing myself & not getting on anything too hard.  A really rewarding day out, loving the climbing, catching up with old friends, putting faces to names from here and getting to know some great people I'd not met before followed by a long evening bulling in the pub and whisky before bed.

S - A bit hungover... Two breakfasts thanks to Jim's mouthwatering bacon butty skills and then waffles and coffee in Abersoch with two of my best friends and Adam.  We walked down to Talfarach late'ish as some of the scouse team were leaving.  What a place... a crazy jumble of Giants' D&D dice all piled atop one another.  You need a spot on the approach to some of the problems.  I couldn't face the spicy arête as a first problem so pootled about on some easy problems with flattish landings.  Si took us over to the Ministry of Silly Hats which went second try (it gets 6c+ but it's not); then a brilliant undercut arête problem after a few tries that should've gone first go but I kept stepping off for fear of falling higher up and then another brilliant monkey on a pole layback thing and a few tries at the slab to the L of Ministry before packing up and heading out. Watching the team climb well; Choughs wheeling overhead; big Ravens nests on the cliffs above; sunshine and shiny sea; views across to Cilan.  A joyful day topped off with amazing views of Snowdonia frosted with snow in the sunset and a huge murmuration over the A55 near Conway.  Brilliant....

Siurana in ten days so back to some fitness indoors on the ropes.  Very excited to be climbing again.

A post that pretty much sums up what's great about climbing! 

[shark]

11.4-5

M.
T. AM eatswood with Nick C. Lovely day. Perfect temp. Reworked the crux of the Reverse but didnt come up with anything radically new. Few decent redpoints. At end Nick C went on ten Inch Zombies which I had previously swore never to try again. Nick played his lanky crimpmeister card to full effect and the fucker ended up doing it. I eventually found a sequence which might work, next time. Perhaps
W.
T. Noon. Systems board. Remarkably similar scores to Sunday so not in AeroPower zone yet. Threw in an extra go to at least have some difference. Was strong on the crusher crimps on the warm up though. PM. Was expecting it to be sunny all day but it clouded over so nipped out to Burbage, Mint conditions but obviously a bit tired from lunchtime. 3 lads acame and went and the Keith C showed up I managed to hold the left slot once then muffed it going for intermediate pebble. Also worked top moves off stacked pads. Got a hole in pad of right index finger
F.
S. Foundry. Tommy was competing in the YCS. I met Ollie Torr there for a coaching session following on from my session with Tom Randall.
S. AM eatswood. Perfect conditions. A guy called Ben from Duffield showed up with a short pass out from nappy duty (glad that's behind me). Taped my index to help the hole heal but had some slippage on a crimp that ruined a couple of the redpoint attempts. Got a move further than Tuesday. Had a few goes at Ten Inch Zombies again and came close to touching tiny pebble below the finger jug. Not sure if this way is going to work though (left hand on big pebble, left heel on foot ledge, RH up to minging front two crimp on tiny black nobble , RF by left heel left foot high and rock and reach with view to get aforementioned tiny pebble with RF still on ledge then rocking again for finger jug tapping RF up). lso worked out less sketchy finishing move using hold in crack as a fingerlock rather than layaway       

For those that dont know Ollie works with Tom's new partner and specialises on strength advice. Ollie noted some movement inefficiency typically dropping my shoulder forward (particularly the left shoulder) when making moves which doesn't allow the rhomboid muscle between the shoulder blades to help with the move. This is a habitual movement pattern that Leah Crane also told me she had identified and started correcting through working with a movement coach. Its not surprising it is something that happens given the stoop many (most?) climbers develop and the tightness in the shoulder area from all the work that is concentrated there. He also had some interesting ideas on finger strength application related to shoulder stability. Anyway I now have a number of worksheets and videos for stretching, bar and rings exercises and an assisted one-arm deadhanging routine. Not sure how Im going to fit everything in mind given that there are only 7 days in the week and conditions outside are good. It has certainly made me self-conscious, in a good way, over the last few days.

[tomtom]

No Malham Shark? Heard its all dry there... (or was...)

[shark]

No Malham Shark? Heard its all dry there... (or was...)

Tomorrow. 

That hole in my finger which was mending nicely is now a nasty gash from trying Blind Date yesterday evening. I was trying to resist going but Keith kept texting me

[Hugh]

Sun: Neath Abbey bouldering. did a sweet 6A slab...

Perfect slab? brilliant isn't it?

That's the one. Lovely balancy sequence [emoji4]

[webbo]

Mon. Dumbbell workout then deadhanging extended hangs to 8 secs with 12 lbs added. 3 sets of repeaters to finish.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Same as Monday.
Thu. Actually went out twice lots of crutching around.
Fri. Shoulders really sore, so nothing.
Sat. Same as mon and wed, struggling a bit.
Sun. Nothing.

[fried]

M - Nothing
T - Indoors, gradually getting back to normal after January's holiday. Felt stronger than last week.
W - Rest
Th - Spent a long time trying a traverse on undercut slopers, all on the thumbs, didn't do it but had sore fingers for days.
Fr - Rest

Sa - First session outdoors on a beautiful fresh, clear day at Beauvais Nainville, didn't climb great as I expected, but did a fair few blues, got shut down on some others. Tried a few red problems that I'd tried last year at the same period and found that I'm climbing exactly the same.

Had a few goes  on this https://bleau.info/beauvais/6709.html and took a couple of unexpected flyers, I was impressed by my ability to land on my feet as I though I was heading for a bruising.

Su - Rest

I have a problem, with my wall opening a second centre it's too easy to get to, which means no BM sessions. At my level should I sacrifice an indoor session for a BM session or will I be better served just climbing ?

And any cream recommendation for glassy skin, I failed a long due to slipping off holds on Saturday.

[kelvin]

Sa - First session outdoors on a beautiful fresh, clear day at Beauvais Nainville

Had a few goes  on this https://bleau.info/beauvais/6709.html and took a couple of unexpected flyers, I was impressed by my ability to land on my feet as I though I was heading for a bruising.

Should be up in Font on April 10th for a month - ready with a spot should you need one. Get planning which project you need one for!

[abarro81]

Fried - go climb, is say at your level don't worry at all about sacrificing fingerboard for climbing!

[Mumra]

Fried - go climb, is say at your level don't worry at all about sacrificing fingerboard for climbing!

agreed

Also try using Elizabeth Arden to soften your skin before hand. Also licking you fingers works before attempts (see Ondra!)

[Muenchener]

Wot they said.

I'm a punter and I only do board sessions when I don't have time to get to the wall.

I actually enjoy fingerboarding though, which I suspect won't do me any harm on the long road to slightly less punterdom. Assuming I don't hurt myself.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

In searching for projects mode atm.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Ticked all bar 3. Flashed all I did. Campus after.
W: Rest.
T: Night work.
F: Rest.
S: Black Cave. Small cave right on the water looking toward Manly. Warm up V4, V5 first go, fun V6 repeat, hard V4. Worked The Plunge V10. Finishes with committing backwards dyno. All moves bar dyno and I have hand over jug but just not committing to the swing yet. Should go when it cools down abit and abit of weight goes.
S: Bangor Blocs & The Villas. Just messed around at Bangor while mate started trying a V9/10 that he's keen on working. Villas, another mate working Savage V8. Glad I did that quickly. Jumped onto Paul's Present and Shoosh, both V10. Worked out most the moves on them bar the sketchy finish they share. Ones to come back to...


"Rest"... Did my level 2 this week. Very physical. But would still do front levers and sets of pull ups wearing full kit while waiting.

[fried]

Thanks everyone, I thought that was the case. I'll have a try with the Elizabeth Arden, I'm fed up spitting on my hands.

[fried]

Sa - First session outdoors on a beautiful fresh, clear day at Beauvais Nainville

Had a few goes  on this https://bleau.info/beauvais/6709.html and took a couple of unexpected flyers, I was impressed by my ability to land on my feet as I though I was heading for a bruising.

Should be up in Font on April 10th for a month - ready with a spot should you need one. Get planning which project you need one for!

Looking forward to it. Hope you'll be back on form then.

[Luke Owens]

I've been training hard (for me) since December now, feel like I've made great strength gains from all the board sessions but it's beginning to feel like when I'm outside although I'm stronger on 2 - 4 move problems anything longer than this feels like it's getting harder and harder I just don't have the energy for it. The 8 move problem I tried on Sunday I found the moves so easy in isolation or even linking 4 moves together felt fine, but as soon as try anything more I just power out.

Do I take it easy for a bit or just man up and crack on?

M: Lunch - Max Hangs - Half Crimp - ~20mm slightly incut smallest rock ring edge
Progressive Set:
10sec (0kg), 10sec (2.5kg), 10sec (5kg)
Main Set:
3 x 6sec (10kg)

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Shoulder Rotations (5kg)
3 x 12 Bent over flys (5kg)
Stretches

W: Cave - Got to a high point (1 move further) on Left Wall (7 moves in). Felt stronger on the moves again and spent the last half an hour of the session repeatedly trying the moves where I fall off, got some good small beta changes too.

T: Lunch: 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Plas Power - 20 mins ARC traverse Warm-up

20' Board - 3 x 7A, 2 x 7A+ (All repeats)

45' Board - 6C+ and 7A (Both repeats). Came up with a new project to try.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Talfarach for Fatneck's 40th!

Leaning Wall - 6A+
Ministry of Silly Hats - 6C+ (repeat)
Bardsey Blues - 6C+
Cream Seam - 6B+ (repeat)

Then tried Brethren Court (7A+) again and fell on the 2nd to last move, i'm useless at doing more than 6 moves in a row lately, just completely lose all power.

Had a quick go on the 7A+ wall above the boulder field too before we left, felt hard with no energy or skin left. Did the left 5C arete.

Awesome day with ace weather! Think I may of met a few people that post on here?

[Footwork]

STG - don't eat/ buy sweets for a whole month. After visiting the haribo factory in Pontefract I feel this is an important goal

MTG - Keep stretching and rehabbing shoulder

LTG - As much highballing and trad climbing as allows

Monday - nothing
Tuesday - Went to Caley and did death drop 2000. Mint problem!
Wednesday - Shoulder rehab
Thursday - Shoulder rehab
Friday - drove up to Scotland in evening
Sat - amazing weather and climbing
Sun - exhausted but more amazing weather and climbing. Drove back to Leeds with a big smile on my face.

[SA Chris]

You certainly scored with the weather last weekend if you were in the hills. I was at home tending to sick family members

[Sasquatch]

STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training, 2 local boulder projects that may be winter doable - The Loony project(8a? stand, and 8b/+? sit) and the Rutted Project(8a+?ish)
MTG - 1 arm pull-up, 1-arm hang BM2K middle lower slot, Spotted Dick Project
LTG - To Bolt...

M - Rest
T - Planned on doing Mx Hangs, but sacked off after warmup.  fingers just not feeling right.  messed around a bit and tried a light campus workout.  Campusing felt good, so did a short campus session
W - rest
T - Moonboard session and 1-arm pullups -
F - Into local gym for a boulder session - 62 new problems up to 7B.  Fun session, but so wrecked by the end of it. 
S -  Family Day
S - Spent 14 hours traveling to Wisconsin(work trip), then drove 30 min to gym, climbed 48 problems up to 7B, then drove 1.5hrs to hotel. 

Not anything close to what I planned for the week, but I was craving loads of movement, hence the loads of problems. 

Felt pretty good to go to a different gym, start off feeling worked after an overnight travel with only 2 hours of sleep, and still be able to pull down reasonably well.  I think the local wall is getting more and more sandbagged...