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Virgin King at Stoney crux (Read 2080 times)

simon40

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Virgin King at Stoney crux
February 21, 2016, 03:32:15 pm
Hi

Has anyone got some clues with the crux, hopefully, on virgin king at stoney, garage buttress.
can get to the move after the large pocket, going up with right to long crimp, and big move up with left to three finger good crimp, this is below the big flake. Struggling to move right hand to this flake..

any help very welcome

kc

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#1 Re: Virgin King at Stoney crux
February 21, 2016, 06:42:14 pm
Sure that should read "lefthand" to long crimp as you would be undercutting the pocket with right. Match long crimp pull up to the good crimp as described, grab some shitty sidepull thing with right. The crux is then to imagine a smear with left foot and high step onto the long crimp with right and grab the good undercut with right.
However I remember having a bit of a tussle with this last year as the long crimp didn't fell quite as long as it used to. Hope that helps/makes sense?

simon40

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#2 Re: Virgin King at Stoney crux
February 21, 2016, 06:50:37 pm
Yes makes good sense thanks

I do go to the long crimp with my right, its easier and means no sharing, just go off left hand on tufa like sidepull, and use right big pocket for balance only

Will have a go at getting foot on crimp, thanks


 

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