[Duncan campbell]

Hi All,

Starting to think about planning a trip Sport climbing mid-April time and am looking for some suggestions as to where to go (especially keen for recommendations for slightly off the beaten track/less regularly heard of places)

The main criteria being:

1. medium to long endurance pitches preferably at a "traddy" angle - vert to slightly overhung. This is essentially a trad training trip
2. Somewhere that'll be nice and warm but still have either good connies or shade to hide in
3. Good doss/campsite

Went to the Gorge du Tarn last April which was perfect had some great long enduro pitches, lots of traddy angles, sun/shade nice river to swim in and a good doss up on top of the hill. I will return one day but first I'm keen to go elsewhere.

I'm really keen for Chulilla but my friend reckons it will be too warm - North facing wall should be ok though?

France is preferable as I'm going to meet up with a friend who lives in Chamonix. She has mentioned Rodellar but that could be a bit hit or miss?

Any suggestions welcome!

[jwi]

Rodellar will definitely be hit or miss. It's dry now I've heard, but some big march & april rains can quickly change that.

Briançon? Close to Chamonix. Lots of vertical limestone on iffy rock. Basically trad.

St. Léger? Really good. Very quite during weeks as well. Not all of it is steep/seeping.

Verdon? Risky at that time, but if you're lucky with the weather and can pull it off, what could better prepare you for trad?

Tres Ponts/Col de Nargo? Lots of vertical rock in the area.

[Fiend]

Rodellar isn't really in france.

Chulilla has a lot of North West facing sectors that will be in the shade most of the day (all day at the end of January) and South East facing sectors that will get afternoon shade.

[jwi]

Rodellar isn't really in france.

Ah bon?

[Duncan campbell]

Rodellar isn't really in france.

Chulilla has a lot of North West facing sectors that will be in the shade most of the day (all day at the end of January) and South East facing sectors that will get afternoon shade.

Yeah, I know smartarse!! I said PREFERABLY in France. Chulilla is even less in France you know?  Good knowledge about choobeeloobies (that is how you pronounce it right?) though. A friend is heading out in April so gonna see how they find it then I'll go next year I reckon!

St Leger looks awesome!

[SA Chris]

France is preferable as I'm going to meet up with a friend who lives in Chamonix. She has mentioned Rodellar but that could be a bit hit or miss?

From Cham you could easily access the crags in the Arve Valley. There are all sorts of angles, single and multipitch, and both on N and S sides of the valley plus a wide variety of altitudes and easyish access from the Autoroute Blanche.

The new guidebook is excellent too,  http://www.escalade-74.com/topos/topo_arve.htm

[IanP]

Siuarana/Margalef is certainly climbable April, conditions on shady crags (of which there's a pretty good selection) will be fine when it's sunny, Montsant is higher up and can be good if it's breezy.  My experience is that temps in April range from mid teens to low 20s so other crags can be fine if you're not too bothered by a bit of sun/warmth.  Personally I quite enjoy the combination of good climbing conditions on shady crags followed by good beer drinking conditions in the sun!

[siderunner]

Presles might fit the bill if you want multi pitch and slightly adventurous sport.

[ghisino]

finale ligure!

[abarro81]

Buoux, lourmarin, St leger, venasque are all close enough to be combined into 1 trip, probably some others too. The very/slab buoux stuff will make high tor routes feel like a walk in the park too!

[shark]

Buoux, lourmarin, St leger, venasque are all close enough to be combined into 1 trip, probably some others too. The very/slab buoux stuff will make high tor routes feel like a walk in the park too!

Basically anywhere old school. Check On the Edge for details

[Wood FT]

Buoux, lourmarin, St leger, venasque are all close enough to be combined into 1 trip, probably some others too. The very/slab buoux stuff will make high tor routes feel like a walk in the park too!

Great place but Buoux would be boiling non? St. Leger Duncan, it looks like a really nice place.

[Gus]

KA-LYM-NOS

[danm]

I reckon St.Leger is a good call. There is a decent campsite in Buis which is cheap as sin, open from the start of April. There's other decent crags around and some traddy multi-pitch stuff on St Julien and the Dentelles (first is in Buis, second is about 35 mins drive away). Sun and shade to suit. Some of the best food and wine in the world as well. Go to the market on Wednesday and get some wild boar salami  (sangliers) and some Banon goats cheese, on rest days go visit some vineyards and buy some Cote du Rhone.

[Dave Mayes]

Finish work mid april and don't live too far from St Leger, so might see you there if you go!

[bigironhorse]

finale ligure!

 

Finale ligure has loads of variety and there is a free campsite at the crag Monte Cucco with a cheap pizza place across the road. Not France but fits the bill otherwise!

Muzzerone is a bit further down the coast and has long vert routes above the sea. Maybe some multipitch? Think there may be access issues on the main cliff though. There is a good and reasonably cheap rifugio with good and cheap food as well.