Big FA at Stanage (Read 18556 times)

tomtom · February 17, 2016, 08:27:16 am

Quote from: dave on February 17, 2016, 08:13:38 am

Think Ned is saying 7c-ish on the old instantgrammar. Which means it's not even the hardest FA on grit this weekend. Move along people, nothing to see here.

We could all have the wrong interpretation of FA of course....

Bonjoy · February 17, 2016, 08:32:29 am

Last I heard he was going to call it Full House and was thinking 7C but wanted to do some other dynos to get a feel for the grade.
Landing wise Ned and Matt were both landing in pretty much the same (flat) spot every time and were only using three pads, you could do it with two decent pads and a spot. As is often the case the landing is more intimidating than terrible. Once they'd had a few throws and got the measure of it they could confidently go for the move without much fear of overshooting the pads.

Mike Tyson · February 17, 2016, 08:42:53 am

Quote from: Mike Tyson on February 15, 2016, 12:26:03 pm

Full house.

dave · February 17, 2016, 08:43:35 am

Decent name that.

SA Chris · February 17, 2016, 10:58:40 am

Quote from: dave on February 15, 2016, 11:27:12 am

Ace Of BASE

Ace of Spades, tribute to the recently departed.

r-man · February 17, 2016, 12:05:20 pm

Looks like the answer's in...

http://peakbouldering.info/problems/6007-full-house#.VsRhzvmLTZY

willackers · February 17, 2016, 12:23:38 pm

Nice one Ned, great to see this get done. I've looked at this loads over the years but never tried it due to the terrible landing.

Great stuff

dave · February 17, 2016, 12:34:30 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on February 17, 2016, 08:32:29 am

Last I heard he was going to call it Full House and was thinking 7C but wanted to do some other dynos to get a feel for the grade.
Landing wise Ned and Matt were both landing in pretty much the same (flat) spot every time and were only using three pads, you could do it with two decent pads and a spot. As is often the case the landing is more intimidating than terrible. Once they'd had a few throws and got the measure of it they could confidently go for the move without much fear of overshooting the pads.

Hmmm, not convinced I'd wanna be having goes on this with 2 mats without some serious balls. Let's not forget Ned's got balls coming out of his arse.

rodma · February 17, 2016, 12:41:13 pm

Quote from: dave on February 17, 2016, 12:34:30 pm

Let's not forget Ned's got balls coming out of his arse.

whoa there, i thought he had that sorted out years ago

Paul B · February 18, 2016, 12:48:09 pm

...and he thinks putting a pad beneath a route makes it a highball; questionable judgement on appropriate padding

GCW · February 18, 2016, 12:51:58 pm

Quote from: Paul B on February 18, 2016, 12:48:09 pm

...and he thinks putting a pad beneath a route makes it a highball; questionable judgement on appropriate padding

Like this??

jwi · February 18, 2016, 01:18:50 pm

also known as young man's legs.

Adam Lincoln · February 21, 2016, 09:23:41 am

Tom newman made a quick repeat of this the other day.

a dense loner · February 21, 2016, 09:25:54 am

6 door 4 guy repeats dyno, roll roll up

tomtom · February 21, 2016, 09:37:51 am

Quote from: jwi on February 18, 2016, 01:18:50 pm

also known as young man's legs.

knees
back
ankles etc...

a dense loner · February 21, 2016, 01:56:48 pm

6 door 4 would be impressive however I meant 6 foot 4!!!

tomtom · February 21, 2016, 02:10:06 pm

Quote from: a dense loner on February 21, 2016, 01:56:48 pm

6 door 4 would be impressive however I meant 6 foot 4!!!

I was wondering how you got your doors in your shoes...

Paul B · February 22, 2016, 10:29:24 am

I've seen the video of Tom on this and unsurprising he made it look about 6C. Dyno? You mean rockover!

Will Hunt · February 22, 2016, 10:33:13 am

Did he have any thoughts on the grade?

Bonjoy · February 22, 2016, 11:09:37 am

Probably the same thoughts as Ned - grading dynos is arbitrary at best.

Paul B · February 22, 2016, 11:59:00 am

Quote from: Will Hunt on February 22, 2016, 10:33:13 am

Did he have any thoughts on the grade?

Quote from: Bonjoy on February 22, 2016, 11:09:37 am

Probably the same thoughts as Ned - grading dynos is arbitrary at best.

Pretty much as the wise grasshopper above states; supposedly it's fairly hard to get into the position but once Tom (Chris says hi BTW) had his leg up he said it was very straightforward (and it did look that way). Perhaps it's just one of these things that's gone under the radar due to being perceived as futuristic (although I'm surprised if it's as it appears that Polish Dave didn't do it sooner)?

dave · February 22, 2016, 12:28:05 pm

Probably more that the lending was perceived as suicidal. I think anyone who is reasonably familiar with dynos will at some point have looked at it and written it off on the basis of the landing not the climbing.

Bonjoy · February 22, 2016, 12:34:38 pm

Quote from: dave on February 22, 2016, 12:28:05 pm

Probably more that the lending was perceived as suicidal.

Surely you'd expect a high interest rate in that case

dave · February 22, 2016, 12:36:11 pm

Big payday loan required to cover a safe number of pads.

r-man · February 22, 2016, 12:43:28 pm

Quote from: Paul B on February 22, 2016, 11:59:00 am

Perhaps it's just one of these things that's gone under the radar due to being perceived as futuristic (although I'm surprised if it's as it appears that Polish Dave didn't do it sooner)?

I just asked him. He's never tried it. He did mess around on that boulder, but not on that line. I think the landing put him off.