[shark]

..to stay front-on.

I wasn't

[nai]

Back around

[shark]

Back around

You make the rules up as you go along.

Its a self-limiting trait.

[webbo]

Mon. Weights
Tue. Deadhanging 7 different grips all plus 4lbs( weighed cast and shoe which is another 4lbs)  increased duration of hangs to 8 secs,pull ups 5+ 4lb 4+8lb 3 + 12lb 2+16lb 1 +20lb then back up to 5 again.
3 sets of repeaters on the big slots with pencils to make them smaller + 4 lb
Wed weights
Thu. Deadhanging same session as Tuesday.
Fri left elbow stiff at the back ,feels like it's related to when I broke it 35 years ago.
Sat. Nothing elbow not as stiff.
Sun. Elbow still improving, crutches round the garden centre with the missus.
Not sure what caused elbow issue might ease things back next week re pull-ups and heavier weights.

[rodma]

Mass: 61.5kg

Mon: Weights, slightly increased but maintaining form, so am only lifting very light weights for deadlift, straight leg deadlift and clean and press
Tues: wal sesh with campus. not too bad, definitely slowly feeling more steady on the campusing on the shoulder front
Wed: weights again, same as monday
Thurs: wall with campus again: more tired tonight, but still ok
Fri: pizza and wine
Sat: toddler birthday bash
Sun: wall session: manage a couple of slopey things i couldn't previously do and feel relatively strong. nice to have two days rest to asses how things are progressing. can't take the pain and don't have the strength to really try problems on wee crimps yet. hopefully in a month or so.

a good week all in, not the best sleep-wise but still progressing nicely

[Wood FT]

Mon -
Tue - foundry routes 8 x 6b-7a with a few wave L2s and one L3 to start
Wed -
Thu - foundry routes, partner lost psyche so went home
Fri - wave, finished L2s and worked green spotty. 10mins of easy campus.
Sa - Roaches, nice day of bouldering. Few goes on Entropy's, good falls from top.
Su -

Weekends booked up now till Spain so focus is all on that, heading to Devon this weekend but climbing looking unlikely.

[shark]

BTW Anyone fancy a Remergence lamping session tomorrow evening??

[filz]

M: nothing
T: board climbing. Hard session
W: rest
T: I woke up early, so I did some ring and body weight exercises before going to work.
F: Got a wisdom tooth removed
S: Bouldering. Good conditions but I was weak and didn't do any progress
S: Not feeling well. Did some fb

[tomtom]

BTW Anyone fancy a Remergence lamping session tomorrow evening??

Weds?

[jwi]

I'd say the edge is about the size of a medium campus rung. 25mm or so

you hang it four finger, open or semi crimped using a pulley to stay front-on.  Tom mentions in his podcast that even folk who are adding extra weight use the pulley with 1kg loaded to ensure they stay straight.

25 mm and allowed hold the counterweight with the free hand and the percentages I've heard starts to make a bit more sense. I had to try to check (still too tired on my left hand from yesterdays bouldering session, but the left hand is usually 1-2 % stronger than the right). Around 0 kg for 5s.  (1 kg in pocket, 1 kg counterweight). Could probably have hold on another second or two. Rp around 8a in 2-5 tries and is not particularly weak (or strong) for my grade on deep edges.

[shark]

Is it a one arm hang test?
Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?

Also, on the test, do you hang front on or sideways? For how long time?

+1

Duration of the hang still not spelled out?

5 secs

[tomtom]

10st 10-12lb

M: Work. Pressups and antagonistic wrist curls

Tu: As above

We: Bit hungover - work in AM then over to Curbar in the afternoon. Repeated Trackside for first time in ages - then went to GW pit to work Early Doors. Did the finish (from the campus style move onwards) three times in a row - then got in a twist on the bottom part. On my final burn got accross to the campus holds but big swing led to a large side dab on the big block on the right. Then greased off the crimps at the top :-/ landing right at the back of the pit in the 20 cm gap between boulders and my mats.. bruised heel and wounded pride...

Th: Work, depot. Good session

Fr: Burbage North. Fantastic conditions in freezing fog. Solo'd up some warm up crack/wall things on the left then on to Remergence area... Made some big progress on Blind Date. Toe on working well, then found that rocking weight over the toe (even a little bit) made the next move up to the slot much easier. Slapped closer, then got it a couple of times and let go in surprise - then got it and spooned off going for second slot. Then got the second slot twice in a row. First time got in a bit of a knot what to do - second time worked it out, but fell off blindly flailing around for the hold over the lip (its not all over at the second slot Shark...). Despite progress - both those attempts were missing out the first move! so can't call it a near miss Anyway, it feels like it will go very soon which is good.

Having run out of fingertips, I went to Curbar to play in the GW pit again, but had no beans left. A few bad attempts then gave up. Had a play on Jihad too...

Sa: Open day at Work - no time to climb

Su: Met up with friends for lunch and afternoon walk. Good quick evening session at the Manc Depot - good to bump into PaulB & Nat (and hound) there.

Frustratingly I have alot of work on and not much opportunity to make good of the conditions window.... they'll still be there next week I guess...

PS - left Golfers Elbow seems to be receeding. The odd ache, but dumbell work and stretching seems to be helping on the days off...

[shark]

BTW Anyone fancy a Remergence lamping session tomorrow evening??

Weds?

Strong possibility of snow blowing in on weds.

[Sasquatch]

STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training, 2 local boulder projects that may be winter doable - The Loony project(8a and the Rutted Project.
MTG - 1 arm pull-up, 1-arm hang BM2K middle lower slot, Spotted Dick Project
LTG - To Bolt...

M - Backcountry Ski w Wife
T - Campus/1 arm/Sloper work -  1-4-7, 8 of 8 times.
W - 1 hr hike/explore, plus a little bit of random landing work for a couple of new local boulders
T - Max Hangs and Moonboard
F - 40 min bike
S - Campus/1 arm/Sloper work - Stuck 1-4-7, 7 of 8 times. 
S - rest (a bit hungover)

The weather has been money, but I haven't been able to really get outside for a session.  I was hoping to get out today, but I had too much work.  Maybe Wednesday. 

I'm pretty excited about the 1-arm training. 

[Sasquatch]

Is it a one arm hang test?
Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?

Also, on the test, do you hang front on or sideways? For how long time?

+1
Duration of the hang still not spelled out?

5 secs

Quite funny.  I've been doing my 1-arm hangs on the bottom center slot of the BM2K, which I measured at 25mm.  I can hang 1-armed for 10 seconds at -30lbs, or roughly 83%.  I've also been using a pulley to the harness system so I have to engage the shoulder differently.  I'll test it on Thursday to see my 5 sec max.

[shark]

Had thought I'd permanently deleted camera footage of my best go on Blind Date by accident but just found and recovered it

[shark]

Is it a one arm hang test?
Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?

Also, on the test, do you hang front on or sideways? For how long time?

+1
Duration of the hang still not spelled out?

5 secs

Quite funny.  I've been doing my 1-arm hangs on the bottom center slot of the BM2K, which I measured at 25mm.  I can hang 1-armed for 10 seconds at -30lbs, or roughly 83%.  I've also been using a pulley to the harness system so I have to engage the shoulder differently.  I'll test it on Thursday to see my 5 sec max.

I'll see what my score on the BM rung is too

[Mumra]

Had thought I'd permanently deleted camera footage of my best go on Blind Date by accident but just found and recovered it

That's pretty much it! 

[Nibile]

The bottom center rung on the BM is a strange hold, IMO. It's good and everything, but I think it's quite hard to one-arm hang, because it's quite incut, and thus you have to half crimp it, you can't hold it more openhanded. The latter being easier.

[jwi]

The bottom center rung on the BM is a strange hold, IMO. It's good and everything, but I think it's quite hard to one-arm hang, because it's quite incut, and thus you have to half crimp it, you can't hold it more openhanded. The latter being easier.

By far.

[T_B]

Had thought I'd permanently deleted camera footage of my best go on Blind Date by accident but just found and recovered it

Lookin good!

If you're not averse to using a ladder, it might be worth working the move from the two slots as it's eminently droppable and possibly the redpoint crux if you're at your limit. 

[T_B]

The bottom center rung on the BM is a strange hold, IMO. It's good and everything, but I think it's quite hard to one-arm hang, because it's quite incut, and thus you have to half crimp it, you can't hold it more openhanded. The latter being easier.

By far.

I can one arm drag #14 on the BM, but I agree, it's not a very nice hold.

[Nibile]

Hey I never said it's not nice! Every hold is nice on my BM! 
I said it's tricky. You feel it, feet on the ground, and think 'Who's your fuckin' daddy?!'
Then you try to one arm it and...

[shark]

If you're not averse to using a ladder,

Me? <cough>

[Sasquatch]

The bottom center rung on the BM is a strange hold, IMO. It's good and everything, but I think it's quite hard to one-arm hang, because it's quite incut, and thus you have to half crimp it, you can't hold it more openhanded. The latter being easier.

I agree it is quite odd to openhand.  I can do so(not 1-armed w/o assistance), but it's quite a drag on the skin at that point.