[fried]

STG - Get outside
LTG - 7A by 50

M - Planned to climb but still rundown with cold/ Jet lag.
T - Nothing
W - Indoors, just happy to be climbing something, managed 1.5h stopped by sore hands.
Th/ F / S - Nothing
Su - Indoors, skin slightly better, then ripped a hole in my finger. Stupid fucking beach holidays.

[Muenchener]

STG: Get through half term family snowboarding trip without anybody suffering from:
(a) multiple fractures
(b) bronchial fever
(c) bruised ribs
(d) expensive damage to avy beacons

M: 15 minutes shoulder mobility. Not as easy as I expected to kick the sharkathon habit and take a complete rest day.   At least I didn't feel the need to stretch it out :-) to thirty minutes
T: Bike to work one hour.
   Beastmaker max hangs; first attempt at added weight on the small edge. Oh my this is a lot harder than a small campus rung.
   Half hour shoulder prehab.
W: 15 minutes elbow & shoulder prehab. Proving hard to get completely out of the shark-a-day habit.
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. First time with M jnr since plaster removal. He had a good time but tired quickly; I just felt weak. Subjectively. But then I managed a problem that felt improbable a couple of weeks ago with a sit start on horrid slopy sidepulls, so maybe wasn't actually as weak as I felt.
Weighted pull-ups 5 x 2 x 20kgs felt easy too.
F: Actual rest day. Nothing at all. Felt odd.
S: Beastmaker. Good session. Mostly max hangs, rounded off with a couple of sets of repeaters to (a) get properly trashed before taking a week's training break, (b) transition into spring PE season
S: Snowboarding. Family holiday in Ötztal. Not a huge amount done on the first day: M jnr understandably suffering from severe Mojo Loss since his big accident. See Short Term Goals.

[tomtom]

M: Work. Press ups and shoulder stretches
Tu: More work. Press ups and shoulder stretches
W: Work - Manc Depot in the afternoon. Great session
Th: Shite weather. Rest - started doing dumbell antagonistics for golfers..
Fr: Peak. Started as fairly log weather, drizzle stopped, wind dried a few things. Spent a couple of hours in sector du Remergence. Took ages to warm up (temperature and muscles) but made progress on Blind Date - after watching endless variable quality videos of lots of different people doing it, I gleaned one tiny bit of beta - to move my right foot about 10-20cm left along the back wall from where it was. This opened up my stance so I could more easily get my LF onto the smear. When I got my aim right and it stuck it worked, and locked me in with a big flag underneath and I could move up with some confidence. Though not enough confidence to get the slot (I was more surprised at getting in a position I could move from) - still happy to have made progress. Whilst letting my left tips rest, I flailed around on Submergence with all the moves nicely dialed to the crux (I like the moves under the lip..). but the tall persons way lunge at the end feels deeply unsatisfying and I'm coming up about 1-2cm short. Not sure I'll bother continuing with it as it feels like a bit of a crappy crux after some nice moves. Anyway. Progress
Sa: Visiting mother in law - went to Whitworth and saw an excellent exhibition about Tibor - the fabric designer. Not something I would normally think I would like but it was very interesting. Good lunch - then out in the evening
Su: I really should have gone to the Depot - but there was sunshine, and a strong drying wind so I felt I had to try and get out somewhere.. Went to Lobb Mill (outcrop with 6-8 move around an overhanging lip problems) but it was full on in the wind, was scrittly and I didnt like the problems I tried. Seeing on google there was lots of traffic on the M60 between me and the Depot - I went to Wilton4 to piss about on the Square again. Desperately close to Blind Flurry - then managed to pinprick split my left tip so bailed out.

[Hugh]

STG: Get properly well again. 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

25th - 31st Jan:

Got released from hospital on the Tues and spent the rest of the week feeling shit. Managed a bit of fingerboarding on the Sunday though.

1st Feb - 7th Feb:

Mon: Felt ok after brief cycle ride, so had a very gentle session at TCA. Unsurprisingly knackered afterward, but generally not as bad as feared.
Tue: Quick fingerboard (repeaters)
Wed: Another TCA bash, short but a bit less gentle than Mon.
Thu: Nowt
Fri: Decent few hours at TCA, managed a bunch of the 6a-6c circuit. Wiped out afterward though.
Sat: Nowt
Sun: Max hangs (13kg 16mm 10s). Lower weight than previous as felt form has been poor.

Better than expected week after the unpleasantness of the prior two. Still getting tired really easily though, so have to remember to take it easy for a while.

[36chambers]

STG: exorcist short
MTG: Yorkshire classics
LTG: 8B

M: lunchtime "RowFit" class.
T: Depot, working semi-hard problems
W:
T: Depot, semi-hard problems
F: lunchtime circuits class
S: Depot, limit bouldering a la RCTM.
S: Almscliff... ridiculously windy, even for the cliff. Fell off setting up for the last move on exorcist. I think it's a goer
 

[Falling Down]

Came back from Spain on Tuesday with a nasty cold so have done nothing this week apart from starting some easy deadlifting again as my back's been iffy.  Feeling much better today so back to it this week.

[csl]

STG
V8 indoors
get out on rock - done
book summer sport climbing trip - done

MTG
7c in Siurana

LTG
8a

Mon

Tue

Hard Boulders + Fingerboard.
Arch.
 Low on energy as I'd been unable to eat because of toothache. Didnt do much on boulders but did have a good fingreboard session.
5 on 10 off x 5.
BM2000 crimps with 5kg added - 2 sets
Medium pocket - middle two - 2 sets
Wed

Thu
Hard Boulders + Core
Arch.
Great session - felt really strong. Did a V7 and made progress on another couple of Greens.

Fri
Arch - Ancap + AeroCap

Good ancap session. 2 sets of 5 reps on the board. Good intensity made up problems.
Aero cap 3 reps 5 mins on 5 mins on.


Sat

Sun

Cuttings
Started off on a 6b, then put the clips in Live by the Sword 7a+ as they share the same lower-off. Did that first go today (tried twice in Nov).
Tried Hall of Mirrors 7c - couldnt really work out how to do the crux - watched a video on the way home and realised i was doing it all wrong! One for next time.
Then flashed Holy Hand Grenade - 7a.

Good day out - didn't get particularly pumped despite only really training Strength + AnCap and not tying in for 2 months.

[filz]

M: fb max hangs
T: body weight and rings: dips, push ups, weighted pull ups, L-sits, handstands, bridges
W: worked late. Did a quick weights session
T: fb repeaters. Bad on slopers, hadn't done them in a while. Overall good session
F: rest
S: bouldering. Felt tired, forearms got pumped after some moves, but made good progress on a 7c I'm working
S: rest

Not much climbing this week, but the progress on the 7c pleasantly surprised me

Inviato dal mio Nexus 7 utilizzando Tapatalk

[shurt]

Stg: get fit for Spain,  do routes outside as much as possible beforehand
Mtg: 7b+ sport, E4, f7a+
Ltg: 8a sport

M: General stamina on fingerboard 140 moves (feet on) x 3 with 5 mins rest in between
T: same as Monday
W: rest
T: Back at Sea Mills (limited time). Tried easier traverse to warm up and had a brief step off before finishing it which I'd never done before. Had a rest then tried the harder wall and managed the whole first go which was great.
F: 3 sets on fingerboard (power endurance version) with 5 mins rest in between (first time I'd done this configuration I've been trying which was good)
S: did some press ups at some point
S: Same as Friday

Had a good week training wise. Feel like I'm getting stronger especially as I managed the traverse this week and making progress on fingerboard sets.

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.3-5

M. Systems board. Short session of 20:10s Did one set and stopped before pumped in second set
T.  AM Foundry. Bouldered on Wave with Keith. Tried something hardish that he did. Lacklustre session - can't remember much about it. All those problems are gone now.
W.
T. Eve. Fingerboard. DT came round. I didn't do very well and sulked. DT is in tune with his forearms or deluded. I can't decide.
F.
S. FBO with Tom. Came second out of three in Vets category. Must have frightened off the competition - or they died in last week's cold snap. Beaten by Tom and Dolly but the Larger man lost. Managed to aggravate my elbow niggle on one of those stupid volume problems.   
S.

Feel ready to train again. Not been outside for 27 days. Too busy make moolah. Having my metabollocks tested by Randall on Tuesday. Hopefully he will have advice to prevent premature ejection on the top traverse of the Oak.   

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

6 day on training week....

M: St Leonards. Decided to do volume, 50 problems no repeats up to about V5/6. Tiring.
T: St Leonards. New stuff on 45. Flashed all bar hardest 2. Did those in overlapping halves but couldn't link. Campus after.
W: St Leonards. 30 problems then campus, then gym.
T: St Leonards. My own problems. They're hard... Abit of campus after.
F: Rest. Much needed.
S: Backline. Small older crag, hadn't been before. Only ~13 problems up to V6. Did all bar the 2 V6s. Struggled on the V5s, they took quite a few attempts.
S: Bonnet Bay. First time here. Another micro crag, 12 problems up to V12/13. Usual low roof stuff. Ticked the classics; Everest V2, K2 V5 and Lucky 7 V7. Worked Cling Thing V9/10, definitely one to come back to when abit cooler.

[the_dom]

A decent week for once, even if the weight is stubbornly static.

Mon: Deadlifts and core
Tues: Campusing and a very short boulder session
Wed: Bouldering (indoors)
Thurs: Deadlifts, hangboard - one arm training
Fri: Rest day. My first rest day since late December
Sat: Bouldering - various things up to 7A+ first or second go
Sun: Bouldering (indoors) - really good session on new problems

[tomtom]

Hopefully he will have advice to prevent premature ejection on the top traverse of the Oak.

Have you tried thinking about Margaret Thatcher?

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - board projects.

Mon - dumbbell complex (speed); clean and press; hill sprints.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Amazing session, power recruitment before. Climbed two projects, for a total of about two minutes and half of actual climbing. Perfect. Rings after.
Thu - dumbbell complex, cleans, press; climbing class. A little bit of campusing, did 147 first go but slightly strained right shoulder when leading with the LH. Not bad though.
Fri - rest.
Sat -  rings, dumbbell complex, cleans. Good.
Sun - board climbing. Tired from Saturday's party. Little volume but good. Nearly iced a project. Low gravity day. Rings.

Good week. As per YYFY thread, discovering that I am two kg heavier than I used to think didn't affect the climbing. Feeling stronger than ever.

[T_B]

85.6Kg

M -  Foundry lunch routes. A 5+, 6b then 8 x red 6c with 2 mins rest. Felt like HI AeroCap.
T - Totally knackered having done something 8 of the past 9 days. So didn't go to the school.
W - Repeaters. Front 3 on Moon lowest 7 x 7, then 7 x 7 with 6Kg added. Middle 2 in #7 7 x 7 no weight. Front 2 in #7, 7 x 7, then failed on 5th rep of a second set - big improvement on 28 Jan. Front 3 #10 x 2 @ 7 secs. Finally 7 secs with 6Kg assisted on right #5…
T - Run to work (7.9Km). P.M. Rings inc wipers and 3 x 5 offset pull ups on each arm.
F - Repeaters. Front 3 on Moon lowest 7 x 7, then 3 x 7 failing on 5 of 3rd set with 2.5mins rest. Pull ups.
S - Repeaters. Front 3 x x 7, then 9 x 7 x 2 with non-timed rest. Pull ups.
S - Run - Owler Tor/Millstone/Padley/Yarncliffe Edge/White Edge. 11.5Km / 300m of ascent.

Did I say my finger was still getting better? I'm now able to get it into a more of a 'semi-half crimp position' on the f/board. But all of this week's deadhanging was open, either front 3 or front and middle two. Sticking with repeaters and also pushing towards the AnCappy end of it just to see. Might have another week off bouldering as it's feels as though I'm pushing it quite hard without re-tweaking it. Plan to go on a mid-week run with headtorch this week in lieu of Schoolroom - what is happening to me? #endorphins

[nai]

goals - train, taper, crush.

M - fingerboard & 1/2 AnCap routine

T - Warm up at home the head to the Foundry for Boulders with Short Rests only to find the level 2s have been reset and the circuit I have worked out is gone.  Try to work out a few of the new problems but with no enthusiasm knowing they'll be reset before the weekend.  Workout doesn't go well, fall off a lot and have to use lots of intermediates, wrong footholds etc cheat.  Too tired for AeroCap afterwards

W - LI AeroCap 3x10 mins

Th - AeroPow - Works circuits board, double laps of green spots with a short rest between, usually do this at a lead wall but went ok despite the odd bit of minor cheating.

F - HI AeroCap & conditioning

S rest

S - tried to get going to repeat Monday's workout but just couldn't. LI AeroCap 3x10 mins

Cold is dragging on beyond 2 weeks now, can't remember the last time this happened, if ever.

[rodma]

Weight: 60.8kg

M: weights at home: slightly increased weight, but still concentrating on form.
T: Wall session with campus: shoulders feeling slightly more stable, manage 147 on mediums with ok form, don't attempt smalls.
W: rest
T: campus at home. manage 147 face on with reasonable form, quite a way away from static though.
F: rest
S: wall session. reasonably strong. manage an 8 i had prviously done with greater ease.
S: rest

a tiring week work and life-wise, but still seeing some progress. managing to get the deadlifts to really target my weakspot, which is satisfying. shoulder mobility improving and discomfort reducing.

[webbo]

Mon. Dumbbell workout then deadhanging 7 different grips 8 second hangs 3 sets on each. Weighed cast and shoe = 4lbs 4 ozs 3 sets of repeaters to finish on big slots with pencils in them to make em smaller. 4 mins between each set.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Dumbbell workout, then deadhanging reduced hangs to 6 secs but added 4lbs so 8lbs 4ozs 3 sets of repeaters to finish. I had my operation reviewed by the nurse and I'm allowed slight weight bearing when standing.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. 30 mins walk/ hobble on the crutches.
Sat. Dumbbell workout then deadhanging, same as wed but reduced rest on repeaters to 3 mins.
Sun. Nothing.

[cheque]

STG-7s/ Extremes on grit this season. Wall of Horrors (or any grit E3) before it's too hot again.

MTG- 7b/+ in 2016

LTG- 8a

M- Came home from work ill.

Tu- Woke up ill, slept most of the day then felt fine when I woke up.

W- Rest.

Th- Notts Depot- new comp problems. Flashed the first 22 (of 30) which is my second-best performance ever. Worked the next 5 problems with no success. 

F- Rest.

Sa- Rest.

Su- Went out despite unpromising forecast, largely 'cos my mate was up from Cambridge. Millstone for Technical Master- I dread to think how many fruitless sessions I've had on this now! Last time (October 2014) I was falling from the move to the good flatty but it took a while to get the beta back together this time, by which time it pissed it down. Decamped to Mother Cap and had an inaugral session on Conan (as a librarian I feel obliged to tick this) unfortunately we were both literally blown off sideways each time we committed to the thin rail... walking back to the car met Mark20  who was trying something with an obscene name that was both dry and out of the wind. Unfortunatly I was to weak for it and it pissed it down again. Got soaked/ pelted with hail wandering around at Higgar afterwards.

[ashtond6]

Hi all, thanks for starting

Goals still hazy! I've suddenly got really psyched for Yosemite again... but LTG is still probably 8a

M - rest
T - Awesome Walls, onsighted another 7a YYFY: 6a, 6a, 6c OS, 6c OS, 6b+ OS, 7a OS, did all the moves on the prow 7b?, 6b+, 6a, arms melted
W - rest
T - did lots of the new wasps circuit, now starting to campus, I like how its measurable, rather than extremely subjective bouldering. Currently 1-4-5/6 on slopers, 1-3-4 on big rungs (I think). Hoping to improve both of these this week
F - rest
S - rain rain rain rain
S - Curbar, had a fun day but climbed badly. Onsighted x2 6Bs, did a 6C second go (6B in guide). Can't rock onto the heel on trackside, feel so tangled up with my long legs when it goes in!

[Dolly]

M Foundry Wave lunchtime. Managed 2 more level 3s inc a Flash
T Knackered after not sleeping
W HIT in morning before work. One more level 3 on the Wave before they were all stripped
T HIT early in morning before looong day in that London. Drank too much free wine on the way back on the train
F HIT in morning before work
S FBO 16. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Didnt get sandbagged by Lagers and had a pint with Shark afterwards. Battered.
S Coming down with some sort of cold thing. Sore throat and sneezing

[Wood FT]

wasn't going to do it this week as my ribjury is annoying me but thought best to keep it up and stay thoughtful

mo -
tu - foundry, 8 routes 6b - 7a, felt a bit tweaky on harder things
wed -
Thu - foundry, 6 routes, very busy and couldn't get going, gf did her first 6b+, good lass.
Fri -
Sa - F-BO comp, good fun early on then got a bit too cramped for my punting around so did a few routes waiting for the final and cheering on team Joble
Su - 5 mile walk at a very muddy Chatsworth

Feel okay today (apart from sneezing or coughing) so will tentatively try a little session on the new wave set tomorrow. Booked Siurana accommodation for easter 

[Fiend]

Good effort Webbo on doing some regular training despite his operation / achilles 

[webbo]

I need to do something to keep me out of the fridge.

[Wood FT]

[Sasquatch]

Missed a week, so here's a double:

STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training,
MTG - 1 arm pullup, 1-4-7, Spotted Dick Project
LTG - To Bolt...

M - Campus Session - first time on new home campus board, and ring work
T - 45 min Skate Ski, Sore from monday
W - Campus/1 arm work - Stuck 1-4-7 both arms twice....     Out of nowhere...
T - Moonboard session - surprisingly good session considering campusing Wed
S - 3 hr Hike with Wife
S - Travel for Work

M - Travel for Work
T - Travel for Work
W - Travel for Work
T - Campus - Felt HEAVY and weak.
F - 30 min cardio on bike trainer
S - Campus,1 arm work, boulder, rings - HARD log session, but felt good.  Managed 1-4-7 on one side, but not the other
S - Ski with Daughter at Special Olympics

two weeks ago I had the very distinct realization that my raw pulling/lockoff strength was a big weakness.  As such, it's now a major focus for my training.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks

Also did stretching and some rotator cuff/delt dumbell stuff

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
4 x 10 Dorsal Raises
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 12 Bent over flys (5kg)
3 x 15sec L-Hangs (Paddle Legs)

Stretching and Nerve glides

Eve: Plas Power - 15 min ARC Traverse Warm Up

20' Board - Repeated 3 ~7A's and managed to do a 7A+ I'd done a month ago first go today.

45' Board - Did project I'd be trying for the last couple of sessions in about 5 goes, felt really solid on it. Tried the moves on a 7A i've done before and felt really strong on the crux, body tension feels better.

No An-Cap this session in hope to be less tired at the Cave on Thursday...

W: Lunch - Stretching and nerve glides

T: Lunch - Stretching and nerve glides

Eve: Cave - Tried new beta for move I always fall off on the link, beta works great and the move feels a lot easier but it makes the next move harder...

Managed a link from the start and did the move I always fall off but then fell off straight after, progress - albeit small.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Cave - 6th Session on Left Wall - Arms feeling less tight as a result of all the stretching of shoulders and neck, warming up feels easier.

Linked from the start into my new beta and stuck the hold 4 times but now the next move is stopping me...

[csl]

How do people manage finger tweaks whilst training?

I've had a new one appear after the weekend - initially only hurt when fully straightening the finger - but after training last night its a bit tender in all positions now.

No swelling, no pain whilst climbing, just a bit sore when i squeeze the finger in certain place.

Current plan is to cut back for a few weeks and do aerocap? Then slowly build back up with fingerboarding till i feel ready to boulder hard again. Any sage advice or good articles i should read?

[Three Nine]

Dont squeeze it.

[csl]

I knew that was coming!

[Will Hunt]

Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice.

I've now had four sessions on Red Baron Roof. This is the first time I've ever really projected something (other than Underhand which I tried for a long period of time with a crap sequence and then did quickly with the right one) and it feels like an enormous step up in terms of difficulty from anything I've done previously. Its not my style at all. Having said that I'm finding it a very satisfying process and with each session I see significant gains. I don't know whether this is all down to working the moves and doing them more efficiently/learning them/refining beta etc etc or whether it is also making me stronger as well?

I'm now at the stage where I KNOW I can do it - its just a matter of getting a really good link on it. Last night my best attempt saw me fall off trying to match left foot/hand (can't remember which) to the arete, which is pretty close to the end. I failed on it because I just didn't have any power left in the tank to finish the burly 7A+ stand.

So this suggests to me that I need more power endurance - fine. The best training I can think of for this is trying Red Baron Roof, as it would be very difficult for me to replicate how knackered the problem makes me using the pull up bar, fingerboard, and woodie that I have access to. The advantage of having more goes on the problem is that I might actually get a great link on it and tick the thing!

The problem with this is that this problem is really eating my skin in three unusual spots. Left hand palm between the base of my ring and middle fingers, right hand thumb at the MCP joint, left hand thumb on the IP joint. These three places are now open and will take a couple of weeks to heal properly. They're unusual places to lose skin and unusual in that, because I don't require any sensitivity on the rock in these place, I can still climb reasonably well on the problem even when they're taped (with the exception of the palm "split"). However, even when thickly taped, the rock still eats skin - so unless I let the skin recover completely this only going to keep getting worse.

I feel so close now - I don't want to stop trying the problem. If I stop for two weeks, then I might come back to the problem and be completely out of form for it, or at least won't have made the PE gains I need and could have got through trying the problem; but I feel like in the long term, I need to let my skin recover completely to give me a decent shot at it.

If I stop, am I going to doom myself to failure? Or is there a PE routine that somebody can recommend that will simulate the extreme burl of the problem adequately? Lots and lots and lots of pull ups until complete and utter exhaustion?

[tomtom]

Stop over thinking it. Sounds like you're at the stage now when you just need a go where it all falls into place. Have a day or two's rest then try again - and repeat. Might be Connies - muscle memory or just getting better at some parts - it'll all fall into place.

[Mumra]

Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice.

I've now had four sessions on Red Baron Roof. This is the first time I've ever really projected something (other than Underhand which I tried for a long period of time with a crap sequence and then did quickly with the right one) and it feels like an enormous step up in terms of difficulty from anything I've done previously. Its not my style at all. Having said that I'm finding it a very satisfying process and with each session I see significant gains. I don't know whether this is all down to working the moves and doing them more efficiently/learning them/refining beta etc etc or whether it is also making me stronger as well?

I'm now at the stage where I KNOW I can do it - its just a matter of getting a really good link on it. Last night my best attempt saw me fall off trying to match left foot/hand (can't remember which) to the arete, which is pretty close to the end. I failed on it because I just didn't have any power left in the tank to finish the burly 7A+ stand.

So this suggests to me that I need more power endurance - fine. The best training I can think of for this is trying Red Baron Roof, as it would be very difficult for me to replicate how knackered the problem makes me using the pull up bar, fingerboard, and woodie that I have access to. The advantage of having more goes on the problem is that I might actually get a great link on it and tick the thing!

The problem with this is that this problem is really eating my skin in three unusual spots. Left hand palm between the base of my ring and middle fingers, right hand thumb at the MCP joint, left hand thumb on the IP joint. These three places are now open and will take a couple of weeks to heal properly. They're unusual places to lose skin and unusual in that, because I don't require any sensitivity on the rock in these place, I can still climb reasonably well on the problem even when they're taped (with the exception of the palm "split"). However, even when thickly taped, the rock still eats skin - so unless I let the skin recover completely this only going to keep getting worse.

I feel so close now - I don't want to stop trying the problem. If I stop for two weeks, then I might come back to the problem and be completely out of form for it, or at least won't have made the PE gains I need and could have got through trying the problem; but I feel like in the long term, I need to let my skin recover completely to give me a decent shot at it.

If I stop, am I going to doom myself to failure? Or is there a PE routine that somebody can recommend that will simulate the extreme burl of the problem adequately? Lots and lots and lots of pull ups until complete and utter exhaustion?

Give it up......take up gardening or something less stressful. This is clearly not your sport

[nai]

Stop over thinking it. Sounds like you're at the stage now when you just need a go where it all falls into place. Have a day or two's rest then try again - and repeat. Might be Connies - muscle memory or just getting better at some parts - it'll all fall into place.

Spoken like a true anti-trainer.

Are you powering out or pumping out?  It looks like it takes a minute or so to climb, that's probably AnCap territory rather than PE. Bit of a 

Obvious thing, make sure you have the stand absolutely wired.

You're idea of lots of pullups might work, basic but effective. how about this pullup intervals workout on the BM slopers

http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/training-muscular-endurance-part-1.

Try chucking in some  pressups after your pullups for added burl.

[ashtond6]

Anyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?
 

[tomtom]

And climb faster...

[nai]

And remember to breath...

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[webbo]

Anyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?

No

[tommytwotone]

Stop over thinking it. Sounds like you're at the stage now when you just need a go where it all falls into place. Have a day or two's rest then try again - and repeat. Might be Connies - muscle memory or just getting better at some parts - it'll all fall into place.

Spoken like a true anti-trainer.

Are you powering out or pumping out?  It looks like it takes a minute or so to climb, that's probably AnCap territory rather than PE. Bit of a 

Obvious thing, make sure you have the stand absolutely wired.

You're idea of lots of pullups might work, basic but effective. how about this pullup intervals workout on the BM slopers

http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/training-muscular-endurance-part-1.

Try chucking in some  pressups after your pullups for added burl.

I remember when I was trying Gorilla Warfare and was struggling for endurance / oomph to finish it off I did a whole load of pullup / frenchie workouts. Seemed to help.

[dave]

Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice.

I've now had four sessions on Red Baron Roof. This is the first time I've ever really projected something (other than Underhand which I tried for a long period of time with a crap sequence and then did quickly with the right one) and it feels like an enormous step up in terms of difficulty from anything I've done previously. Its not my style at all. Having said that I'm finding it a very satisfying process and with each session I see significant gains. I don't know whether this is all down to working the moves and doing them more efficiently/learning them/refining beta etc etc or whether it is also making me stronger as well?

I'm now at the stage where I KNOW I can do it - its just a matter of getting a really good link on it. Last night my best attempt saw me fall off trying to match left foot/hand (can't remember which) to the arete, which is pretty close to the end. I failed on it because I just didn't have any power left in the tank to finish the burly 7A+ stand.

So this suggests to me that I need more power endurance - fine. The best training I can think of for this is trying Red Baron Roof, as it would be very difficult for me to replicate how knackered the problem makes me using the pull up bar, fingerboard, and woodie that I have access to. The advantage of having more goes on the problem is that I might actually get a great link on it and tick the thing!

The problem with this is that this problem is really eating my skin in three unusual spots. Left hand palm between the base of my ring and middle fingers, right hand thumb at the MCP joint, left hand thumb on the IP joint. These three places are now open and will take a couple of weeks to heal properly. They're unusual places to lose skin and unusual in that, because I don't require any sensitivity on the rock in these place, I can still climb reasonably well on the problem even when they're taped (with the exception of the palm "split"). However, even when thickly taped, the rock still eats skin - so unless I let the skin recover completely this only going to keep getting worse.

I feel so close now - I don't want to stop trying the problem. If I stop for two weeks, then I might come back to the problem and be completely out of form for it, or at least won't have made the PE gains I need and could have got through trying the problem; but I feel like in the long term, I need to let my skin recover completely to give me a decent shot at it.

If I stop, am I going to doom myself to failure? Or is there a PE routine that somebody can recommend that will simulate the extreme burl of the problem adequately? Lots and lots and lots of pull ups until complete and utter exhaustion?

Or just get a bit stronger/more efficient on the start, so you won't be as knackered for the finish. If you can get more efficient on the start that's a quick win that doesn't require any training, just beta refining.

[tomtom]

Anyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?

No

No from me too.

[Footwork]

Will, you do climb quite slowly. Getting it all wired and climbing quickly does help a lot! 4x4's on steep problems at the depot?

Edit: I enjoy Mumra's posts

[36chambers]

Anyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?

No

No from me too.

I actually wish Mumra would post more often

Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice...

Welcome to the world of projecting. You're pass the honeymoon stage with RBR and now it's getting serious. This purgatory-esque period should not be underestimated, it ruins families and can damn even the greatest of people. (Just be glad you're not sport climbing). 

Will, you do climb quite slowly. Getting it all wired and climbing quickly does help a lot!

+1

Watching back the send footage of myself on Dialectics I noticed that I got to the break in 40 s, whereas on all the other attempts I got there in at least 50 s. It made all the difference. Although I wasn't consciously climbing quicker, I just nailed every move perfectly...

...so I suppose my point is that you should nail the moves perfectly

[Will Hunt]

Watching back the send footage of myself on Dialectics

Less about your pre-sex foreplay routine, please.

you should nail the moves perfectly

I might just try that.



So no thoughts about whether two weeks off it will put me back more than trying it with shit bleedy skin?

[webbo]

Do something that makes you stronger/fitter while your skin recovers.

[tomtom]

Success vs failure attempts for me on Weedkiller... learned to move faster/more efficient sequence in the first part and leave myself enough to finish..

[shark]

Interesting way to compare it. As far as I can see you were only 2 secs quicker on the start and spent longer on the jug. I doubt pace had much to do with it.

[Wood FT]

climbing fast is the path to true righteousness Will


Tom - Agreed. once I had the start nailed I went so fast on weedkiller, man isn't supposed to sloth around at that angle.

[Sasquatch]

climbing fast is the path to true righteousness Will

Tom - Agreed. once I had the start nailed I went so fast on weedkiller, man isn't supposed to sloth around at that angle.

Unless one has a kneebar

[Nibile]

Fuck me I miss The Tor.

[a dense loner]

Only cos you've been twice nibs

Ashton if your long legs are causing problems on the heel move on trackside have you tried keeping left foot high but under the cap bit and lurching up for just below top with right hand?

[Nibile]

 
Actually once.
Miss it even more now.

[tomtom]

Only cos you've been twice nibs

Ashton if your long legs are causing problems on the heel move on trackside have you tried keeping left foot high but under the cap bit and lurching up for just below top with right hand?

I did trackside again (first time in a couple of years ) on weds - the trick for me (and I'm tall) is all in the right foot placement. I place it on the left hand wall - like everyone else - then bring my left heel up. The precise position of the rf is important here as I put a load of my weight on it to move over onto the left heel - if it's too low I can't get across. About 30cm down from the roof is perfect for me - there's no mark to put it on. Also if you point your right heel out then it puts you in more balance. Once you get it right it's piss and you'll wonder what all the fuss is about.

[ashtond6]

I will try the lurch method, thanks!
Tomtom, do you mean rf on the mini arete' or actually on the wall under the roof?

I felt like I couldn't rock onto the heel as my rf was taking all my weight as well as being bunched up

[tomtom]

I will try the lurch method, thanks!
Tomtom, do you mean rf on the mini arete' or actually on the wall under the roof?

I felt like I couldn't rock onto the heel as my rf was taking all my weight as well as being bunched up

Left wall of the cut out. Once that rf is high enough you can sit in that left heel. Then reach the top. No need to lurch.

[a dense loner]

There's no need to climb

[tomtom]

There's no need to climb

We're not talking GCW trackside methods here