[jwi]

Link to the survey over Hardest trad os of 2014

[jwi]

I opted to put in a few nuts instead of soloing some of the grade 5 pitches in Taghia. Around VS I assume?

[tomtom]

Can we wait a week or two until the next climbing poll is put up please? (I assume it'll be hardest sports route etc...)

Last year we had a load come out after I'd posted up the bouldering one and it felt a bit death by polls.... a bit of spacing would make sense to me...
T

[Will Hunt]

I did practically no trad last year but I did do a few highballs, of which a few were onsight. How do we deal with these?

Verge of Tranquility at Rylstone felt like highballing in the moment, but my partner later commented that he thought there was an element of danger.

Under the Awning at Sypeland felt phenomenally dangerous and a stupid thing to attempt alone with shitty pads.

[Fiend]

Highballing has no place here. Nuts and cams or beer towels, nowt else.

I did a few things graded E5, by far the hardest was the alleged softest, Warpath. The alleged hardest The Long Run was possibly the easiest 

[Johnny Brown]

As far as I'm concerned trad involves placing gear. Narcissus with all your mates' pads doesn't get you E6.

[dave]

So soloing without mats isn't trad? Tough crowd.

[Johnny Brown]

If anyone thinks they've done an impressive solo post up and let the jury decide. DWS wouldn't count either.

[Will Hunt]

I plumped with E3 given that the thing at Sypeland would have definitely got ugly, despite shitty pads, in the not unlikely event of the flake snapping.

[Mumra]

Invalid

[lagerstarfish]

I soloed The File one morning, mentally very unprepared

[ghisino]

spitalgie (annot).
absolutely no idea of what E grade it would get.

steep and pumpy f6c on pockets, a little exposed in the very beginning (relatively high 1st protection plus soft rock. the massive thread might crumble with a proper fall!!!). Then lots of opportunities for placing cams in pockets.
No in situ threads this year.

very unusual route, the slowest and the most pumped i've been on a 6c in a looong time!

[Mumra]

I soloed The File one morning, mentally very unprepared

Good effort especially in this style!

[duncan]

spitalgie (annot).
absolutely no idea of what E grade it would get.

steep and pumpy f6c on pockets, a little exposed in the very beginning (relatively high 1st protection plus soft rock. the massive thread might crumble with a proper fall!!!). Then lots of opportunities for placing cams in pockets.
No in situ threads this year.

very unusual route, the slowest and the most pumped i've been on a 6c in a looong time!

Offers in the region of E4?

On further investigation, this makes it look amazing and if you don't trust the big thread, why would you trust a small alien?! If the cams are no good, surely E5.

[ghisino]

the "problematic" thread is the very first runner, hidden below the roof, not the second one

the rock in the first 5 meters (up to the second thread, roughly) is a sandy/crumbly thing , quite reminiscent of some structures in wadi rum...

chatting with lionel the tradannot guy, he agreed and said more or less one day some idiot thinking big=bomber will deck on that route. This is why we decided not to replace the insitu threads

[Will Hunt]

Invalid

Since this has sufficiently bothered you to punter me, I will explain. Under The Awning goes up a couple of easy moves to a steepening. You grab a hollow flake in the roof and pull on it until you can reach right through to a green and scrittly sloper rail on the lip. While you're reaching through you're completely committed to this weak flake and you're pulling on it quite hard. You match the sloping rail and then slap the top of the boulder.

All of this takes place a reasonable distance above a horrible boulder, that you would hit and clatter down if you were unfortunate enough to fall off. The climbing is not hard - only English 6a - but I have done enough climbing to know what the difference is between an old skool E3 that in the modern style gets a font grade, and an old skool E3 that is still E3. This was the latter.

It's not even a hard grade. Not worth getting put-out over 

[tomtom]

I soloed The File one morning, mentally very unprepared

Good effort especially in this style!

I find being mentally unprepared a prerequisite for trad climbing

[csl]

by far the hardest was the alleged softest, Warpath.

I found this pretty hard when i tried it, granted ive not been on many E5's but it didnt seem like the total softy everyone says it is!

[kingholmesy]

I've voted, but could someone with great IT nous than me please create a single survey in which people can vote for hardest trad onsight, hardest sport onsight, hardest sport RP and hardest boulder sent?

It would be interesting to see the correlations.

[Mumra]

Invalid

Since this has sufficiently bothered you to punter me, I will explain. Under The Awning goes up a couple of easy moves to a steepening. You grab a hollow flake in the roof and pull on it until you can reach right through to a green and scrittly sloper rail on the lip. While you're reaching through you're completely committed to this weak flake and you're pulling on it quite hard. You match the sloping rail and then slap the top of the boulder.

All of this takes place a reasonable distance above a horrible boulder, that you would hit and clatter down if you were unfortunate enough to fall off. The climbing is not hard - only English 6a - but I have done enough climbing to know what the difference is between an old skool E3 that in the modern style gets a font grade, and an old skool E3 that is still E3. This was the latter.

It's not even a hard grade. Not worth getting put-out over 

You've just described a high ball

[Will Hunt]

Invalid

Since this has sufficiently bothered you to punter me, I will explain. Under The Awning goes up a couple of easy moves to a steepening. You grab a hollow flake in the roof and pull on it until you can reach right through to a green and scrittly sloper rail on the lip. While you're reaching through you're completely committed to this weak flake and you're pulling on it quite hard. You match the sloping rail and then slap the top of the boulder.

All of this takes place a reasonable distance above a horrible boulder, that you would hit and clatter down if you were unfortunate enough to fall off. The climbing is not hard - only English 6a - but I have done enough climbing to know what the difference is between an old skool E3 that in the modern style gets a font grade, and an old skool E3 that is still E3. This was the latter.

It's not even a hard grade. Not worth getting put-out over 

You've just described a high ball

OK, whatever. I disagree with you, but notice that I'm not going to punter you. The punter button is normally used when somebody properly offends/abuses somebody or behaves badly, rather than simply holds a different opinion to you. I've accrued my fair share of punter points but its normally in happy banter from people I know or when I actually deserve it.

[webbo]

Invalid

Since this has sufficiently bothered you to punter me, I will explain. Under The Awning goes up a couple of easy moves to a steepening. You grab a hollow flake in the roof and pull on it until you can reach right through to a green and scrittly sloper rail on the lip. While you're reaching through you're completely committed to this weak flake and you're pulling on it quite hard. You match the sloping rail and then slap the top of the boulder.

All of this takes place a reasonable distance above a horrible boulder, that you would hit and clatter down if you were unfortunate enough to fall off. The climbing is not hard - only English 6a - but I have done enough climbing to know what the difference is between an old skool E3 that in the modern style gets a font grade, and an old skool E3 that is still E3. This was the latter.

It's not even a hard grade. Not worth getting put-out over 

It sounds like old school HVS i.e. Jokers wall, Virgin, Sour Grapes, Finger Knacker Crack, True Grit etc

[Will Hunt]

Don't you mean VS, Webbo? Getting soft in your old age?

[webbo]

No they were all graded HVS, however Propeller Wall was VS. So how does that fit.

[Mumra]

Invalid

Since this has sufficiently bothered you to punter me, I will explain. Under The Awning goes up a couple of easy moves to a steepening. You grab a hollow flake in the roof and pull on it until you can reach right through to a green and scrittly sloper rail on the lip. While you're reaching through you're completely committed to this weak flake and you're pulling on it quite hard. You match the sloping rail and then slap the top of the boulder.

All of this takes place a reasonable distance above a horrible boulder, that you would hit and clatter down if you were unfortunate enough to fall off. The climbing is not hard - only English 6a - but I have done enough climbing to know what the difference is between an old skool E3 that in the modern style gets a font grade, and an old skool E3 that is still E3. This was the latter.

It's not even a hard grade. Not worth getting put-out over 

You've just described a high ball

OK, whatever. I disagree with you, but notice that I'm not going to punter you. The punter button is normally used when somebody properly offends/abuses somebody or behaves badly, rather than simply holds a different opinion to you. I've accrued my fair share of punter points but its normally in happy banter from people I know or when I actually deserve it.

Thanks for telling me of how your version of a forum works. I care neither way of you punter me. However with you're own logic there are plenty of people who you seem to offend/abuse