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Stu's Roof Left-Hand
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Stu's Roof Left-Hand
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B0405413
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Posts: 120
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Stu's Roof Left-Hand
January 18, 2016, 11:35:18 am
Had a play on this at the weekend but couldn't get the right toe to stick in the undercut to bring right hand out onto the face. Do most people jam it in there or just put it on one of the footholds in there? Or is there another way of doing it? Cheer y'all
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peewee
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Wilko Baggins
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If in doubt, Lock it out (Dynamically)
#1 Re: Stu's Roof Left-Hand
January 18, 2016, 12:20:36 pm
Its a tricky one to get right, put the foot in and then twist to lock it in (a slim shoe helps). I've heard of it being done with a high left heel instead but not seen it in person.
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B0405413
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#2 Re: Stu's Roof Left-Hand
January 18, 2016, 12:41:19 pm
Nice one cheers, i'll give it another bash.
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36chambers
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#3 Re: Stu's Roof Left-Hand
January 18, 2016, 12:47:49 pm
My method was similar to this
Although I actually place the left heel even higher/closer to the LH (on nothing in particular).
For the right toe I just press it hard onto the small foothold in the undercut and then clamp my legs a little once I've placed the high left heel. At first it feels quite awkward, but once I figured it out it felt solid.
Disclaimer: this beta may not work if you're really tall.
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andy_e
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#4 Re: Stu's Roof Left-Hand
January 18, 2016, 12:50:12 pm
Yeah, right toe in the pocket, then clamp with the left heel. I found the move was very on-off and couldn't get it right every time on the link!
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AlistairB
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#5 Re: Stu's Roof Left-Hand
January 18, 2016, 12:54:51 pm
If you have a reasonable span it may be easier to go RH first to the far crimp, then do the foot clamp, then bring the LH to the other crimp. You get surprisingly good shoulder engagement on the right, I couldn't do it the LH first way at all.
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