[nai]

Thought it'd be a bit much for a lunch time, saw Ben Moon do them all in about 10 minutes without breaking sweat a couple of weeks back but he is Ben Moon for a reason.

Yeah that was him AeroCappin apparently

Yeah, at the same time I was AeroCappin on a 6a+ on the autobelay 

[nai]

Catch up time:

WC Jan 4th & 11th - 2x AeroCap. 1x AnCap, 2x AeroPow, 2x conditioning as per plan.

WC Jan 18th - family ski holiday - managed 2x fingerboard workouts on a door frame.

WC 25th Jan came home with a cold picked up in the chalet so had to skip the hard PE workouts:

M - fingerboard & 1/2 AnCap session
T -  new black circuit and 3x10 mins AeroCap at miniworks
w rest/ill
th rest/ill
F - feel better - short boulder in garage then 1/2 HI AeroCap
S - miniworks with kids, all the blacks, all the yellows and most murples including a couple I'd not done before. Either the new problems are easier than previous or I'm going ok. 1/2 HI AeroCap back home.
S rest, start feeling shite again, come down with cold going around school 

[webbo]

Mon. Weights Dumbbells did an extra set on all exs.
Tue. Abs, core and deadhanging. Appt with consultant Achilles op booked for tomorrow.
Wed.  Achilles op.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Weights Dumbbells seated 5 sets on all exs, deadhanging.
Sun. Nothing.

[cheque]

<b>STG-</b>7s/ Extremes on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.

<b>MTG-</b> 7b/+ in 2016

<b>LTG-</b> 8a

<b>M-</b> Wide push-ups.

<b>Tu-</b> Notts Depot- new blue (fourth-hardest) circuit- flashed them all without a rest. Tried some of the yellow (second-hardest) and pink problems I'd not done (all the thugs ones basically), not very productively.

<b>W-</b> Rest.

<b>Th-</b> Notts Depot- new red (third-hardest) circuit- flashed all but 5, only one of which I needed more than a second go on. Pleased with that, even though the consensus is that they're a bit soft. Unproductive attempts at remaining yellow problems after.

<b>F-</b> Started doing some wide-arm push-ups but during 1st set realised that I could slide the stand things I use across the floor under load so proceeded to do a thing where I did one wide push-up, slid the stands into the middle, did a normal push-up, pushed them back etc. It felt like the sort of thing euro training wads do in those boring training videos and was very hard- 16 in a set max rather than 25 in a set comfortably.

<b>Sa-</b> Woke up early with very stiff back, pecs and triceps. Early as I'd decided to do Parkrun with my girlfriend, against her will. This is the third time I've run since school PE 20 years ago, the first time I've done a timed race (although I'm told it's not a race) and it felt like the hardest thing I'd ever done. My arms were flapping about like a sedated chicken by the last 500m. Did 25:51 which I'm told is OK as it's a hilly one. Knackered all day. Back, pecs and triceps DOMS sets in like a motherfucker in the evening.

<b>Su-</b> Extreme calf, shin and quad pain. Notts Depot with girlfriend, against her will. I probably wouldn't have even gone without her, but she'd got up and run 9 miles before I even woke up so I didn't want to admit defeat. Saw Rich D whose kids seemed pretty psyched for the easy problems. Surprisingly my girl was (a bit) too and got up some easy problems which is more than she did on her previous visit in 2012. I made more progress on the burly yellows than previously but no ticks.

Only one rest day and lots of exercise this week. Unsurprisingly I'm now Ill.

[tk421a]

STG: Albarracin Easter - 7B+
MTG: 8a
LTG: 8A/8b+

M: Wall sesh, ancap, hard boulders with low rest. Some messing around for fun
Tu/W: -
Th/Fr/Sa: Sport climbing in Bulgaria, ~3-5 routes a day. Flashed a 6c+ which was great, not bad for not putting a rope or touching rock for 4 months. Tried some moves on a dirty short 7a+. Definitely need to put more focus on getting out on weekends. London is rubbish for that.

Booked the trip to Albarracin, going for 12 days, really psyched for it now.

I'm also considering saving money this year to fund a year long climbing trip. Would be travelling solo so any tips on where people would go, would be great. Will want to go to places that I could find partners to climb with.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
6 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 15sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Had nerve conduction test at the Hospital.

Eve: Plas Power - 15 mins ARC traverse warm-up.

20' Board - Repeated the usual stuff up to 6B+, repated a ~6C+ from last week and climbed a new problem which was about 6C.

45' Board - Repeated 6B+, climbed new project after a few goes, ~6C+.

AnCap - Same circuit as last week as didn't have time to make a new one.

13 moves x 10 (1min rest between reps) Powered out on sets 9 & 10.

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches

Morning: Went to physio in work to discuss alternatives to steriod injections/surgery in wrists as a result of Nerve Conduction test on Tuesday which showed nerve compression in both wrists.

Physio assesed and identified my ulnar nerve is irritated on both arms and Carpal Tunnel tests didn't really show much up other than slightly in the left hand. I've also got golfers elbow on my right arm too which isn't helping with tightness in my forearm. Got some stretches to do for 2 weeks before I see her again, in which time she said if the stretches are going to work they should of worked by then. Also, she did say it's possible to reverse the nerve compression I have if it isn't too bad already but this seems to be at odds with what others say.

Lunch: Stretching and nerve glides

Eve: Plas Power - 20 mins ARC traverse warm-up.

20' Board - Repeated the usual stuff up to 6B+, climbed new problem which is about 7A, took about 30 mins work, felt hard. Front on on not so positive crimps.

45' Board - Repeated 6B+, and ~6C+ from Tuesday. Came up with a new project which I probably would of done if I hadn't of spent so long coming up with it, need to come up with a few projects to try instead of always just trying one new one.

AnCap - Quickly tried to come up with a new circuit and did that for 6 reps then powered out half way through on sets 7 & 8 which was on my old circuit.

15 moves x 6 (2min rest between reps)
14 moves x 2 (1min rest between reps)

F: Lunch - Stretching and nerve glides.

S: Cave - Left Wall Trav - Felt stonger on the moves again but still powering out 5/6 moves in. Beta feels all wrong for that move, have tried multiple ways that all feel just as hard. Need to find a way that "fits" me.

Not helping that every time I'm in there I'm tired from previous sessions, especially this week having done 2 AnCap sessions.

Need to try 2 rest days prior to a session.

S: Stretching and nerve glides

[Falling Down]

STG (end Jan): Rebuild base (route and bouldering pyramids) do a load of good routes and have fun in El Chorro (Done)
MTG (end Mar): weight 78kg, do a load of good routes in Siurana/Monsant.

M - Westway, felt a bit heavy and tired.  Bouldered and did some circuits for an hour and a half.

T - Nowt.  Packed for trip.

W - Train up to Sheffield and an annual visit to my opticians. An hour or so easy bouldering on the Irn Bru circuit at The Works whilst Martin had his coaching.

T/F/S/S/M - El Chorro area.  A really great enjoyable trip learning to climb again.  I was rubbish at first, over-gripping, scared and reluctant to do anything committing above a bolt.  I knew what to do of course, but the mind and to a lesser extent body weren't willing.  Started to relax though and did some great "easy" routes.  Several long 30m+ classic 5's and 6's at Escalera Arabe; a brilliant 6a at Desplomilandia called Sin Mantenimiento; a superb long sustained High Tor-esque 5+ called Putifero at Los Albercones.  The highlight was the last route of the trip. A hard, relatively short 18m 6b at Poza de la Mona called Poda Higuera.  Gently overhanging for most of its length and sustained throughout.  Martin, who was on sighting 7a and 7a+ every day was huffing and puffing his way up it as his warm up.

My first attempt failed at the third bolt where I just wouldn't commit to climbing past it for fear of falling so climbed up to the next bolt after a rest and did some falling practice - utterly terrifying at first - which did the trick.  The next attempt saw my foot pop off a crucial foothold and I plopped off.  With 30 mins to go before we had to leave for the airport I had one last go and successfully clipped the chains after digging in and fighting.  Really really happy & felt like I was climbing properly again.

So that's one short term goal ticked.  Had a fantastic time just going climbing with Martin and really pleased with the progress I've made since the beginning of Jan when I was struggling to complete 5's on the self-belay at the Westway.  It was a real pleasure to do loads of 3* "easy" routes with the climbing feeling challenging and the outcome unknown rather than just enjoying them as warm-ups as I might have done several years ago.

It's given me loads of motivation to get fitter and shed some more lbs before Suirana next month.  Now I know my level it'll be easier to work out some better goals over the coming weeks.

[T_B]

Good work FD

[csl]

Nice one! Looking forward to Siurana! 

[seankenny]

Good stuff. 

One for your ticklist: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=18018

[Falling Down]

Thanks gents.  Sean - that's a cracking route.

[shurt]

I'm looking forward to it as well,  can't wait.

Stg: get fit for Spain,  do routes outside as much as possible beforehand
Mtg: 7b+ sport,  E4, f7a+
Ltg: 8a sport

I can't remember all ins and outs of the week as my little boy hasn't been sleeping very well so in a bit of a brain fug.  Having said that I did a good amount of sessions on fingerboard (2-3),  mainly pure stamina stuff and got back on the Sea Mills traverse wall and did best link yet which was great. Only downside was I tweeked a middle finger which I had to rest and massage for a few days.

Think I'm going to try and use Sea Mills as much as possible before trip as it is like climbing on real rock so good  for building up skin rather than the wall (and cheaper!).

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Maui. Hikes and swimming. Lots!
T: Leave AM
W: Back to Sydney PM. Only non sharkathon day...
T: St Leonards. Week off, climbed like poo. Just ran laps on things. No campus/fingerboard.
F: Theraband work.
S: Crumbly. Been so monsoonal in Sydney lately, everywhere wet and spoogy. Falling off the end of a long/airy-ish V7 extension to a "classic" V5- Anorexic. Literally falling off the last moves. Just want it done because I hate the V5... Fantastic fall in double toe hooks by a mate...... So fucking funny.
S: St Leonards. Running laps. Making hard problems that I can't do...........

2nd last move of the extension.
This was a fall, shouldn't be cutting there.