UKBouldering.com

UKB Power Club week 309 18th Jan - 24th Jan 2016 (Read 11362 times)

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1687
  • Karma: +155/-4
Hope everyone's had a good week :) (I'm assuming anyone is allowed to start these??)

Anyway,

STG: Exorcist short 8a
MTG: Yorkshire Classics
LTG: 8B

M: Depot. AnPow x4, AeroCap cool down
T: Ab ripper x
W: Lamp session on Red Baron Roof. Couldn’t feel my feet. Seems like just one hard, could be a goer.
T: AnCap x3 on the 50 board, failing on the 3rd set, a wee bit tired.   
F: rest
S: Almscliff. First proper session on Exorcist short. Such a good problem. Very surprised to do it from the DBS arete, and it didn’t feel too bad. Although the first 3 moves may make all the difference. I think I’m turning into a one trick roof pony. I love that bit of rock.   
S: Quick hit at Almscliff before the sunset. Good session, although most things were wet. Finally got round to trying Dreamland 7a+, sent starting with the higher holds. I don’t know whether this is kosher? Excellent moves regardless.

All in all, a pretty good week.

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2008
  • Karma: +83/-0
M Felt a bit tired from the shed session the day before so worked and did the easiest ciruit on the Foundry Furnace board (7a) More moves than I usually do in a whole session. Started to feel a bit ill in the evening so slept a lot.
T Didnt manage a full day at work
W Felt a little better. 8 easy routes in the gym at night
T Beastmaking
F Foundry. Easy traversing to warm up then core on kettlebells, balance board, floor etc.
S Although the weather wasn't great went to Froggatt. I wanted to have a look at Hot Toddy but it was wet. Did Glamourpuss on the pinacle then lots of laps on Tody's playground - just climbing for fun cos I was enjoying it
S Gentle 10 min run with youngest daughter in (her) Frozen baselayer suit then core at the gym later. Swiss ball, VPR and TRX


Not a bad week but feel like Ididnt get in one really hard session

ashtond6

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 363
  • Karma: +14/-4
Mtg 7b+/7c
Ltg 8a / 7B

Terrible week climbing wise. Not helped by parties I had to go too and the weather!

M - rest
T - good session at the works, flashed a white and v close to some other hard stuff. May 7A max
W - rest and bmc meeting
T - partner bailed so rest
F - rest
S - giant hangover, Burbage West for 6B among others. Still can't do a 6A there!
S - went to stanage end and stoney, both soaking wet all day :(

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3091
  • Karma: +150/-5
85Kg

M -
T - School pm. Mainly 30deg then re-tweaked finger crimping. Did some rings exercises.
W -
T - Foundry lunch. LI Aerocap.
F - Foundry lunch. One arm deadhangs with assistance on big holds. Front two pockets. Basically worked around left ring finger, everything fully open.
S - Brief repeaters session, managed 3 x 6 x 7 front 3. No issues fully open. A few rings exercises.
S - Re-opened fell running account, Kinder Downfall from Snake Pass and back. Obviously very muddy but reasonable visibility along the northern edges. Enjoyed it but knackered.

Careful finger management continues. Been giving it the cold water treatment all week. Will try not to get carried away this week at the Schoolroom.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
mon - Works, did the yellow 7b and got to the down climb on the 7b/+. Spent rest of session on the comp wall and faded fast
Tue - Foundry Wave, hadn't recovered from previous day so skin not feeling great, did a few new ones by skin of teeth
Wed - Stanage, friend over from France. New tick in form of Crescent Arete right-hand which I'd never spent enough time on before. Had a good few days to think on it and agree with Nige that it might be the best problem on Grit. End of day session on West Side Story, tried new beta and touched 3rd side pull, happy.
Thu - Foundry routes, 10 routes 6b+ - 7a. Sandbagged myself onto a 7c and climbed well, might try and red point it for the novelty (Foundry 7c = 8a+ right?)
Fri -
Sat - Burbage North, climbed Small is Beautiful after micro-siege, hadn't warmed up properly and pulled something in the ribs. end of day on WSS, got up to 3rd side pull but couldn't hold it.
Sun - Injured, walked into town and back to pick up new day-glo harness, 6 miles.

The frustrating weather at the start of the week meant no mopping up of boulder tick list. Really enjoyed the foundry routes but have lost structure this week. A shame about the injury due to being unprofessional but it'll go away soon. Need to reverse weight gain and rein in the drink, heaviest in few years.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20288
  • Karma: +642/-11
Cheers for kicking off 36C.

Guy - I can give you some sneaky 3rd sidepull WSS microbeta...

10:12

M: Depot

T: One of the Wiltons - it was damp - I may also have Monday and Tuesday mixed up! Flailing around on a 7A I can't get close to :(

W: Drive Manc > Newcastle > Hull. Felt horribly hungover all day (no booze the night before..) (rest day!)

Th: Work etc.. drive back to Manc late. (rest day!)

Fr: Depot.

Sa: A.N.Other Wilton. Or might have been the same one. Only one bit of dry rock - which unfortunately contained the problem I was trying and couldnt do :) Friends house in the evening for Curry and Beer. Had headache all day :( Dreaded potential hangover..

Su: No hangover! Went to driving range with friend and his Son. Re-affirm that I (a) am really shit at golf (b) don't like it. Back home and Depot. Good scene. Only popped in for a quick hour session ended up being there for 2 and a bit. Good to bump into a few folk I know (from here and elsewhere).

I seem to be successfully managing a tiny bit of golfers elbow in my left arm.. using the Tom Randall lie on front stretch and some finger antagonistics seems to be working well. Also mixing up my bouldering - so just one session of mainly overhanging shizz per week - then the rest a mix of fingers and less steep stuff. Also tried a new warm up routine at the wall - of bounding up easy problems (missing loads of holds - big moves etc..) then downclimbing them using every single hold. Well it felt different anyway :)

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2969
  • Karma: +335/-2
STG: rehab. finger
MTG: tbc according to finger recovery
LTG: the usual LH+F.

M - Westway: 6 easy routes with buddy-tape only.
T - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc.
W - Shoulder routine
T - Westway: 10 easy routes with buddy-tape only.
F - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc. Inclined pull-ups.
S - Shoulder routine, dips, biceps etc. Finger swollen and hurty.
S - Country walk. Finger still swollen and hurty.

Finger has had a setback. Too much, too soon, probably. Back to supportive exercises only for a few days, quite getting into these. Then perhaps some foot-on campus board work so I can be sure I’m not twisting the finger even slightly.



andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
Finally got round to trying Dreamland 7a+, sent starting with the higher holds. I don’t know whether this is kosher?

How high exactly?

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20288
  • Karma: +642/-11
Finally got round to trying Dreamland 7a+, sent starting with the higher holds. I don’t know whether this is kosher?

How high exactly?

French start is de-rigeur..

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7998
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
Power Club
STG - board projects.

Mon - board climbing. Brilliant session despite starting a bit tired. Again, incredible progress on the project. A tactical approach that borders the pathological perfectionism.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Tired, bad vibes, mind not there. Useless and dangerous session.
Thu - climbing class. Very tired, fingers achey.
Fri - rest. Visited Motor Bike Expo in Verona. Lots of beer and food. And tits. Oh, and bikes.
Sat - 100 cleans, 50 snatch pulls. Hard.
Sun - BM max hangs. Back3, monos. Not bad despite not doing this session for ages. Protocol 4 x2. Phew!

Mixed week. On Monday I was on fire and I did my project, albeit with a big dab. It felt mega hard and I was super happy despite the dab. I wanted to get a clean ascent, so on Wednesday I tried it again and I was miles away. Fell on the second move. My mind was totally elsewhere. I will try it again soon but if I feel out place again I'll take the dab and move on, it was the first session which I didn't enjoy.
Felt a bit burnt out during the week, it was good to take it easy for once.

Pics from the bike expo:
IMG-20160122-WA0004 by Nibile, on Flickr

IMG-20160122-WA0005 by Nibile, on Flickr

IMG-20160122-WA0007 by Nibile, on Flickr
« Last Edit: January 25, 2016, 09:55:55 am by Nibile »

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3398
  • Karma: +523/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
New tick in form of Crescent Arete right-hand which I'd never spent enough time on before. Had a good few days to think on it and agree with Nige that it might be the best problem on Grit. End of day session on West Side Story, tried new beta and touched 3rd side pull, happy.

Sounds like an awesome day. I need to get on CA left-hand.

STG-7s/ Extremes on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a

M- Right shoulder feeling a bit tweaky. Probably due to doing a pullup while freezing cold on the bar over the Rivelin carpark entrance on Sunday with my pad and camera gear-filled rucksack on my back. :slap: Did some wide pushups anyway.

W-F Pushups possibly another bad idea- shoulder sore Wednesday and Thursday. Rested Friday just to make sure it was better.

Sa- Shoulder fine. Stanage Plantation- a bit damp. Did lots of easyish problems, either ones I'd done before very quickly (mainly first go) or ones that had eluded me before quickly. One of these was Crescent Arete- the first highball I've done for years. That might not sound impressive as it's both easy and I'd done it before, but I've had head issues above a certain height that I now feel like I can control again. Didn't do anything hard despite lots of trying.

Su- Walk around local nature reserve.

Easier week this week, largely due to shoulder issue. Still haven't succeeded on a satisfyingly-hard boulder problem this season but I'm climbing better every time I go out.

fatneck

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2898
  • Karma: +143/-3
  • Fishing Helm
Good stuff people!

Weight on 18.01.16 - 14st 9

Mon - Pilates and Hangar sesh. Did lots of Friday's comp problems and surprised myself by flashing a lot of them!
Tue - Walked to and from work
Wed - Three day first aid training at work = half hour lunches and late finishes = no lunch time training so walk to work every day
Thur - As above but Hangar sesh with wife, she climbs well, I complete a few reds/comp probs I didn't manage last time. Sore left elbow!
Fri - As Wed
Sat - Busy with family including roller disco where I manage to fall on my arse/elbow = sore right elbow!
Sun - Fishing in the morning (first time this year!) then park followed by Hangar sesh with the munchkin. Didn't do much climbing. Beers with ageing scouse climbers in the evening but only three and a relatively early night.

Not the best week training wise but nice to get some regular indoor action. Weighed in at 14st 8 this morning which is 4lbs off in 4 weeks = on target!

Birthday this Wednesday so likely to be eating a bit more than usual this week!  :strongbench:

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 787
  • Karma: +93/-2
STG
V8 indoors
get out on rock
book summer sport climbing trip - progress, should be booked this week.

MTG
7c in Siurana

LTG
8a

Mon-Sunday. Rest Week.

Had one session of easy aerocap.

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1687
  • Karma: +155/-4
Finally got round to trying Dreamland 7a+, sent starting with the higher holds. I don’t know whether this is kosher?

How high exactly?

Same place as the legend himself (@ 4:30)


(I may have used two pads so I could reach the holds)

French start is de-rigeur..

French start with LH on, slapping up with the RH? that shouldn't be a problem :) 

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
That start is perfectly cromulent.

Luke Owens

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
Week 3 of my training plan. Wrist not as bad this week.

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
6 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)
3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 15sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises

Eve: Plas Power - Got there late and the wall was rammed with a scout group so didn't get to train properly until about 20 minutes after my warm-up. Felt like a rushed session, would of liked more rest between Boards/AnCap.

20min traverse ARC warm-up

20' Board - Did some warm-up problems up to 6B+. Set a hard crimp problem and managed after about 15 minutes, around 6C+. Came up with a problem/moves that might help with Left Wall, hard to replicate the starting moves but got a rough idea of holds to use.

45' Board - Repeated 6B+ and fell off the top of the 7A again, worked the moves on a new project and tried to scope out some more. Finding it quite difficult to come up with new projects on the board but completely forgetting the fact that a move being too hard is a good thing.

AnCap - Rushed this a bit as ran out of time:

14 moves x 4 (2mins rest between reps)
14 moves x 4 (1min rest between reps)

Powered out on rep 8 at the end of the circuit.

Need to come up with a new harder circuit next week, the current one is getting easier (can rep with less rest) and unbalanced in that it seems to tax the right arm a lot more than the left... Wrist feeling a bit better, avoided any twisiting/savage pinching with the left hand.

W: Rest

T: Cave - Greasy conditions but a good session - Got a more efficient sequence for the very end which makes it less powerful. Moves on the rest of it felt easier again, managed to get ~6 moves in the 6 times I tried it from the start. The problem seems to be my beta when I hit these moves is really inefficient as I end up hanging around too long to move my feet a lot to do one hand move only to move them back up to where they were. Spent the end of the session trying to figure out a better sequence for this bit. Found a way that keeps the feet high but the hand move is harder but I can keep climbing quicker. This will hopefully change things next time!

F: Rest

S: Penmaenbach Boulder - Short  3 hour session, warmed up flashing a 6A+ and a 6B then did "Lo Pan" (6C+) 3rd go, then the stand start to "Jack Burton" (~6C+) in a handful of goes. Next I did the "Wing Kong" (7A) trav in about 10 goes, trutchy but satisfying! Finished off the sesh trying the sit to "Jack Burton" and the 7B+ prow but didn't get anywhere on either. Felt like I'd done a lot in a short amount of time.

S: Rest

filz

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 152
  • Karma: +6/-0
M. isometric weight training, front lever progression, handstands
T. System and board climbing. Set 2 new problems
W. Late at work. Some explosive pull ups, weighted pull ups, headstands
T. Board session. Climbed some test problems and some tries at the new ones. Felt a little tired.
F. Body weight and rings: push ups, L-sits, tuck planche, front lever progression, ring rows, ring dips
S. fb max hangs
S. Body weight easy session. Loaded carries, squat, dragon flags, L-sits, headstand

Good week overall. I changed my fingerboard routine since I wasn't progressing any more. I added weight on bigger holds. I still have to find the right weight per hold/prehension.

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5034
  • Karma: +141/-13
Mon. Nothing other than limping round.
Tue. More limping ending up,with foot in pot.
Wed. Now on crutches and another pot.
Thu. Weights and dead hanging.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Weights crunches, lying cycling,seated shoulder press, seated dumbbell shoulder press, lateral raises, shrugs,bench press, dumbbell bench press, flys, bent over rows, dumbbell bent over rows,lying tricep press, lying dumbbell tricep press, bench dips, preacher curls, seated dumbbell curls, seated alternate dumbbell curls, golfers elbow wrist curls.
Sun. Crunches, lying cycling, lying body lowers, lying leg raises, planks. Dead hangs
3 sets 4 fingers, front 3 back 3 8 secs + 4 lbs 4 fingers bottom crimp 3 ste 6 secs + 4lbs
Front 2 middle 2 3 sets each hold 7 8 secs + 4 lbs 35 degree slower 3 sets 6 secs + 4 lbs
2 sets of repeaters using big slots with pencils in the back to make them smaller + 4 lbs.

rodma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1625
  • Karma: +60/-3
M: C&P and Deadlifts at home
T: wall session with campus start, pressup and pullup finish
W: C&P and Deadlifts at home again
T: wall session with campus start, pressup and pullup finish (tired, but better than Tuesday)
F: Rest
S: Wall session, no campus, just trying problems. feel ok, but am a good few weeks away from anything approximating full power, niggles depending that is.
S: rest

A decent week

i can just 147, but it doesn't feel very clever, so am currently overcooking/overpowering 146 and 136. once the shoulder feels good I'll risk fuller extension on my left arm.

i am weak at weights, but it has been a couple of years since I've spent any time on them. I'm also trying to have my shoulders back and down throughout the C&P which is the first time I have bothered with form really. it makes them much harder and fells tentatively much more beneficial (to climbing)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20288
  • Karma: +642/-11

French start with LH on, slapping up with the RH? that shouldn't be a problem :)

Indeedy. UT makes a reet pigs ear of that start :)

Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4890
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
Not much at all last week.  My parents left their colds behind after a weekend visit.  My left shoulder is a bit tweaky after my skating injury over the Summer...

M - Circuits at The Westway.  Left proper pumped.
T - Rest/Cold
W - Rest/Cold
T - Circuits
F - Rest
S/S - Nowt of note other than a gentle row.

Not a great week, but I'm off to Chorro this Thursday for four days.  Can't wait to climb outdoors again.

the_dom

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +10/-0
    • The Blog
Mon: Hangboard - 3/3/3
Tues: Weights - deadlifts, kettlebell swings and presses. Hike in the forest in the evening.
Wed: Hangboard - 5/3/1 followed by some bouldering.
Thurs: Weights - deadlifts and kettlebell swings
Fri: Hangboard - 5/3/1 and then 3 hours of standup paddleboarding in canals with all around surf wad Chris Bertish for a work do.
Sat: Post-work do hangover and desultory surf.
Sun: Not the best day of bouldering ever.

Decent week. Weight is still stubbornly in the upper-80s.

ashtond6

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 363
  • Karma: +14/-4
Sat - Burbage North, climbed Small is Beautiful after micro-siege, hadn't warmed up properly and pulled something in the ribs. end of day on WSS, got up to 3rd side pull but couldn't hold it

Must have seen you Saturday, I was climbing to the right of the big group on West side story... hanging hanging hanging so badly!

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2693
  • Karma: +117/-0
STG (January): sharkathon; onsight 6b+ on plastic
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Sharkathon Day 18: Still feeling very much under the weather. Just about managed half an hour shoulder prehab / antagonist stuff.
Sharkathon Day 19: Beastmaker max hangs. Good session, pb on small campus rung by 4kg.
Sharkathon Day 20: Wall, Boulderwelt. Less weak than last week.
Weighted pull-ups 4 x 3 x 17.5kgs
Sharkathon Day 21: Half hour shoulder mobility & forearm antagonists
Sharkathon Day 22: Wall, Boulderwelt. Sharkathon quota session, wouldn't have bothered otherwise.
Bodyweight rows, tgu's, i-y-t's afterwards: probably this was actual valuable part of the session.
Sharkathon Day 23: Wall, Gilching. 11 routes (attempts) to 6c+. Good session. Didn't onsight a 6b+, but fell off two whilst confronting my fear of juggy roofs. yyfy.
Sharkathon Day 24: Two hours hiking in the woods with gratuitously heavy rucksack - base aerobic training for when it's too icy to bike and I don't have time to go hillwalking.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3840
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
M - board and rings; tweaked right shoulder slightly on rings
T - 35 minute run
W - wave problems, fun but not too productive; guarding right shoulder
T - wave problems, long boulders - hard ish 12 move x 5  on board, shoulder felt mostly better
F - 30 minute run
S - short boulders, board
S - wave problems, easier 12 move problem on board, pockets and slopers, 10 reps with one minute rests, 20 minute aero

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
Sat - Burbage North, climbed Small is Beautiful after micro-siege, hadn't warmed up properly and pulled something in the ribs. end of day on WSS, got up to 3rd side pull but couldn't hold it

Must have seen you Saturday, I was climbing to the right of the big group on West side story... hanging hanging hanging so badly!

Ah yes on go west, hello!

Hugh

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 74
  • Karma: +2/-0
STG: 7B. More grit sessions. Stop being ill
MTG: Don't get broken.

Well, this is depressingly simple:

M-S: Ill

Gradually got worse over the week until I ended up in hospital being pumped full of antibiotics. Finally feeling better, but going to be a long recovery :(

Schnell

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 230
  • Karma: +5/-0
S - giant hangover, Burbage West for 6B among others. Still can't do a 6A there!

If that was go west then I feel your pain. I got up it once ages ago and failed the last time I was there. Did a few laps on the nose instead to make myself feel better! :shrug:

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4244
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground
STG: 7B. More grit sessions. Stop being ill
MTG: Don't get broken.

Well, this is depressingly simple:

M-S: Ill

Gradually got worse over the week until I ended up in hospital being pumped full of antibiotics. Finally feeling better, but going to be a long recovery :(

 :wavecry: Get well soon.

ashtond6

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 363
  • Karma: +14/-4
S - giant hangover, Burbage West for 6B among others. Still can't do a 6A there!

If that was go west then I feel your pain. I got up it once ages ago and failed the last time I was there. Did a few laps on the nose instead to make myself feel better! :shrug:
Haha no it was the undercutty rib left of mermaid. Burbage bridge, not West!

Although that pebble on Go West is dirrrrrty sharp, I still have a small blood blister on Sunday from pinching it!

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk


36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1687
  • Karma: +155/-4
S - giant hangover, Burbage West for 6B among others. Still can't do a 6A there!

If that was go west then I feel your pain. I got up it once ages ago and failed the last time I was there. Did a few laps on the nose instead to make myself feel better! :shrug:
Haha no it was the undercutty rib left of mermaid. Burbage bridge, not West!

Do you mean Blocky Rib?

I remember doing Mermaid easily but couldn't touch the first move on Blocky Rib, it felt nails. There must be some sneaky knack to it.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8726
  • Karma: +628/-17
  • insect overlord #1
11.4-6

M.
T. Eve. Persuaded down Works by Ben. Norton and SamT there. OK session
W.
T. Eve. Wasn't in the mood to train after work then a parents evening but dragged myself to fingerboard and had an extended session with mega long rests . Eventually squeezed out some longer hangs than sunday. On a whim after midnight started doing some deadlifts and managed a PB at 145kgs. No idea where that came from
F.
S. Onset of some flu type thing. Did 1 set of 20/10s AeroCap then gave up.
S. Not well. Spent most of the day in bed

Wasn't in the mood to write things up yesterday as I still had the flu thing and also tweaked my back doing nothing. Also the realisation that my training plans had gone to shit. The endurance training for Chlilla and the actual trip was meant to provide an endurance base that would set me up for harder training and bouldering when I got back. Instead I lost finger strength and felt wiped out. And not lost weight. The Oak felt like a zillion miles away.

However, the flu is on the wane now and I just had a short board session and found that my crimp strength has returned so maybe there is light at the end of the tunnel. Going to see if I can regain some bouldering capability ready for FBO on the 6th 
   



Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4890
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
F On a whim after midnight started doing some deadlifts and managed a PB at 145kgs.
S. Onset of some flu type thing.

 :-\

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8726
  • Karma: +628/-17
  • insect overlord #1
F On a whim after midnight started doing some deadlifts and managed a PB at 145kgs.
S. Onset of some flu type thing.

 :-\

Lagers sounds like he got it as well an I'm certain he didn't catch it off a set of dirty barbells

tk421a

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 149
  • Karma: +4/-0
STG: Bulgaria this week (no real expecatations, haven't done much leading in a while, but 7b/7b+ would be ace, 7a fine too!)
MTG: Albarracin over Easter 7B+ target?
LTG: 8A / 8b+

M: Rest (sessions on Sat and Sun)
Tu: Trampolining - ACE, super fun first time, learnt to front flip :)
W: -
Th: Vauxwall, arcing circuit, + campusing for the first time, laddering 1-2-3-...10 with 1' rest 3 sets of 4 reps. Tried the circuit set for the kid squad, tiny holds... fell of the last move
F: -
Sa: Vauxwall, some hard boulders to try remember how to pull hard, felt generally weak, maybe i need more than a days rest after a campus session
Su: Turbo trainer 1.5hrs @135 HR

Gearing up for a trip to bulgaria, feeling like it should be great fun even if I don't climb that much hard stuff. Hopefully the weather comes round, forecast is ok but last week it was -16 in the day...

ashtond6

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 363
  • Karma: +14/-4
S - giant hangover, Burbage West for 6B among others. Still can't do a 6A there!

If that was go west then I feel your pain. I got up it once ages ago and failed the last time I was there. Did a few laps on the nose instead to make myself feel better! :shrug:
Haha no it was the undercutty rib left of mermaid. Burbage bridge, not West!

Do you mean Blocky Rib?

I remember doing Mermaid easily but couldn't touch the first move on Blocky Rib, it felt nails. There must be some sneaky knack to it.

Haha that's it! Properly nails, maybe it's just a stand start on the jug and the top is the crux

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
STG - Prep new routes for upcoming season, continue training,
MTG - 1 arm pullup, 1-4-7, Spotted Dick Project
LTG - To Bolt...

M - 5/3/1 Week 3, DL, Wtd Pu's, Max Hangs
T - 5/3/1 Week 3, Squats, OH Press, 30 min bike
W - MAW, 4x4, Campus
T - Ski with Daughter, Check out a couple of potential project on way home, one of which looks pretty exciting
F - 2 hr touring ski, light campus session
S - Ski with Daughter at Special Olympics
S - Stretch and 20 min Bike


JackAus

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 811
  • Karma: +56/-0
STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: St Leonards. Usual shit then campus and fingerboard, then into gym for big session, then finish up with theraband work. Big session.
T: St Leonards. Usual new shit. Short session.
W: Worked night. Lost 2kg in sweat.
T: St Leonards. Short session. Fly to Hawaii at night. But plane delayed until next morning......... Fuckers. Made me miss out on seeing 50ft waves at Jaws.
F: Actually fly to Maui. Hikes and swiming.
S: Maui. Hikes and swimming.
S: Maui. Did a couple very easy dws problems barefoot. More hikes and swimming.

shurt

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • nincompoop
  • Posts: 724
  • Karma: +38/-1
STG: 7B. More grit sessions. Stop being ill
MTG: Don't get broken.

Well, this is depressingly simple:

M-S: Ill

Gradually got worse over the week until I ended up in hospital being pumped full of antibiotics. Finally feeling better, but going to be a long recovery :(

Holy shit Hugh. Get well soon. Any further prognosis other than 'ill'?

shurt

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • nincompoop
  • Posts: 724
  • Karma: +38/-1
well better late than never...
STG: get fit for Spain in March i.e. get back into some 7s on the bolts

m: did some PUs a set of 10 and a few sets of 5 I think
t: rest
w: had hatched a crazy pipe dream the previous week that the weather would be amazing and I would go and have a day up on the grit. the stars aligned and me and Oli were unable to decline the offer of solid blue skies all day so we went to Stanage - the grit tourists default venue (I didn't mind, I hadn't been for ages). A fair bit was wet but I got a fair amount of easier stuff done and I also ticked Help the Aged and Bunny Wailer which I got first go which was pleasing. I also appear to have witnessed Guy VG's ascent of Crescent Arete RH which he did so smoothly I thought it was part of some circuit or other rather than the significant ascent which has been noted earlier on this thread. The day was only marred by losing my new SIMless mobile I'd been using for its camera (thankfully a kind soul got it back to me in the post). Oli was keen to quest off to try Spring Voyage on the Buckstone as he'd got close the other week. It was dark and we were climbing by moonlight which was actually pretty cool. The crimps are small but hung both of them briefly on a couple of attempts, one for the list I guess.
t: by body needed scraping off the mattress in order to entertain le petit monsieur and I was no good without coffee
f: still ached like fuck and did a full days work
s: re-
s: laxin'

Was good to climb on the grit again and continue the boulder vibe but I know that I've got to get back on the bolts in prep for this Spain trip I've got planned in March or I'll be no good to anyone past the 3rd bolt.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal