[Duma]

His future "profession" in climbing, I would say, as he's also made a business out of it etc.

[Nibile]

Hey, is it correct to say that British 6c translates roughly into French 7b and British 7a into 7c? As single moves.

[Lund]

Hey, is it correct to say that British 6c translates roughly into French 7b and British 7a into 7c? As single moves.

As single moves?

I would say a *very* short F7b might have moves on it that were bottom end english 6c... but more likely 6b.  A long 8a would probably have a fair few 6b moves on it?  The problem is that british technical grades describe that hardest move... so an E5 6c has E5 exposure and length, and the hardest move is 6c.  This would probably be a longish 7b - but the 7b is an overall grade not a hardest move grade.

It's probably better to compare british tech grades to bouldering grades.  6c is somewhere V6-V8, maybe?

I've confused myself now...

[Will Hunt]

I personally wouldn't even try to compare the two. The English grade is supposed to describe the difficulty of a single move (and runs into difficulty even when trying to describe moves that form part of a harder crux sequence) and so there is huge variation when comparing it to French grades. A one move wonder slab with an English 6a move as the crux might be circa 6c French (sorry if that's shite, not my area of expertise)? Raindogs is supposed to be 6a all the way I think and comes in at 8a!

If you give us the sentence you're trying to translate, or even the name of the route that Ben is describing we might be more useful?

[jwi]

I assume you mean font grades Nibile? (Btw. Single move. That's clearly nonsense. A single move has nothing to do with climbing. Except perhaps if it's a long dyno.)

[Nibile]

Yes, I know it's quite confusing.
Let's put it in another way.
British 6c could translate into a very short and powerful boulder of Font 7b?
and 7a into Font 7c?
It's not for a route in particular. I need it for a footnote.

[tomtom]

Yes, I know it's quite confusing.
Let's put it in another way.
British 6c could translate into a very short and powerful boulder of Font 7b?
and 7a into Font 7c?
It's not for a route in particular. I need it for a footnote.

I'd say yes - but the English tech grades span several Font grades (hence why Font grades are so great )

[Nibile]

Ahahaha, ok it's just to give a rough idea to those sad bastards that haven't seen One Summer with its final list of problems and grades. 

[nai]

Are you by chance referencing the "when 6c isn't that hard any more and 6b is approaching a rest" quote?

6c could be anything from a short 7A up into the 8s
7a will start somewhere around 7B+ up
And in case you need it in future 6b is probably around 6B to low/mid 7s


 

[Johnny Brown]

What Nai said.

[Nibile]

He's talking about the grade of the moves on Agincourt.
Cheers guys.

[Nibile]

Here I am again.
Is "Snore" and old monicker for Raven Tor? Page 138 of the book.
Where does it come from?

[Will Hunt]

Don't know about the history of that nickname, however a "snore" is the snorting/grunting sound some people's breathing makes when they sleep.

Snore, sounds a bit like Tor: the implication being that the Tor is boring/passé and thus puts you to sleep. Does that make sense in context?

[Nibile]

Don't know about the history of that nickname, however a "snore" is the snorting/grunting sound some people's breathing makes when they sleep.

Snore, sounds a bit like Tor: the implication being that the Tor is boring/passé and thus puts you to sleep. Does that make sense in context?

Yes, it does. Interesting.

[Nibile]

Anyone else knows anything about Snore/Tor?

[Johnny Brown]

Is "Snore" and old monicker for Raven Tor? Page 138 of the book.
Where does it come from?

Exactly, yes, it's a nickname. It is still in use, my guess is as Will said.

[Nibile]

Cheers guys. 

[Nibile]

Here I am again, nearly finished.
In the last page of the Unfinished Masterpiece chapter, when they talk about the two different sequences used by Ben and Steve on the Kilnsey project, it reads: "There’s not much to be gained in entertaining the counter-factual for
long."
What does this mean? That it's not worth talking about what could have been if...

Cheers.

[erm, sam]

Yes basically. I think.

[Nibile]

Hey guys!
Wen Ben climbs Voyager low, Gav "Aussie" Portman was filming. Is "Aussie" his nickname, or also his nationality or just the nationality?

Thanks.

[fried]

If written like this it's his nickname. He may or may not be Austalian.

[tomtom]

If written like this it's his nickname. He may or may not be Austalian.

+1

[Falling Down]

He's from Australia and his nickname was "Aussie Gav" to avoid confusing with GME.  Used to post on UKB quite frequently ten years ago.  Might be lurking...

[Nibile]

Cheers!!!
I checked it out and it's written "Aussie" Gav Portman. Makes sense that it's both his nickname and nationality.

[Nibile]

YYFY!!!
Just finished the first draft of the book!!!
It should be all downhill from here, hopefully.

Thanks to you all guys.