UKBouldering.com

What did everyone do on the Grit yesterday? (Read 6083 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8744
  • Karma: +629/-17
  • insect overlord #1
What did everyone do on the Grit yesterday?
December 24, 2015, 09:09:16 am
Looks like it was awesome out there. I see on FB that Dobbin did Walk on by  :clap2:

What did everyone else get done?

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
I had Breakfast but couldn't handle the Famous Grouse right after.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
Lagers and myself flashed a few tough 4's and spent some time trying to do the nose with the no technique technique.

Snatched SEALS as the last send of the day... Closest 7A to the car on Peak Grit??

Grubes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1440
  • Karma: +50/-0
  • Fat and Weak
I sat in my office looking longingly out the window  :rtfm:

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8060
  • Karma: +641/-118
    • Unknown Stones
I went for a lantern session at Almscliff and couldn't figure out a decent sequence for Underhand Extension. Couldn't get access to any beta videos except for Ben Freeman's tricky undercut method which didn't suit.

I did do Stu's Roof stand start, which is a contender for the most horrible, pointless couple of moves in Yorkshire.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
I went for a lantern session at Almscliff and couldn't figure out a decent sequence for Underhand Extension. Couldn't get access to any beta videos except for Ben Freeman's tricky undercut method which didn't suit.

I did do Stu's Roof stand start, which is a contender for the most horrible, pointless couple of moves in Yorkshire.
Full of seasonal good feelings? ;)

I like the stand to Stu's. I can't do it bit like it...

chris20

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 239
  • Karma: +19/-0
I kept failing on the arete at Higger, no matter how many times I watch Lagers video it never gets easier

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8825
  • Karma: +820/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
I kept failing on the arete at Higger, no matter how many times I watch Lagers video it never gets easier

key for me is to either be climbing well, or resort to a slight twisting to the left of the right leg/foot/knee as I imagine myself corkscrewing upwards

from 1:15 onwards

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11

I kept failing on the arete at Higger, no matter how many times I watch Lagers video it never gets easier

key for me is to either be climbing well, or resort to a slight twisting to the left of the right leg/foot/knee as I imagine myself corkscrewing upwards

from 1:15 onwards


Having studied at Dojo Lagerstarfish for a few years and being tutored by Obi Wan Lagers a few times I've tried the twisty right foot method and found I do a variant - looking at the vid below (from 1:10 onwards) I start the move with my right hip already twisted into the Rock. It's a great knacky problem. Once it clicks it feels straightforward (ish).


dave

  • Guest
I maintain the whole high right foot thing on this problem is a complete red herring. Left foot high on the upper arete and go.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
I maintain the whole high right foot thing on this problem is a complete red herring. Left foot high on the upper arete and go.
Yes but you're better than me :)

Having watched Lagers video properly I'm heartened he didnt top it out properly either :)

dave

  • Guest
No but I've always done it that way even back when I was shit.

When I've been in a crowd trying it, the ones who insist on putting right foot on high are almost always the ones who don't end up doing it.

Mr_Cus

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 90
  • Karma: +4/-0
I'm a right foot twister


Seems a pretty reliable method.


As for yesterday - How do you do deliverance?!! I'm on the good right foot hold and left smeary edge but feel like my legs are to far apart or my feet at the wrong angles to get any height in my jump.  I'm usually alright at dynos :(.

turnipturned

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 719
  • Karma: +108/-1
except for Ben Freeman's tricky undercut method which didn't suit.

Don't insult BFree like that, that would be Jon!  :w00t:

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8825
  • Karma: +820/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
Having watched Lagers video properly I'm heartened he didnt top it out properly either :)
because I was fooked from failing so hard

anyway...



Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4384
  • Karma: +147/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
One of these days I'll make it to the peak, maybe then I can have a video of The Arete too. I feel left out.  :'(

chris20

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 239
  • Karma: +19/-0
Having watched Lagers video properly I'm heartened he didnt top it out properly either :)
because I was fooked from failing so hard

anyway...



Beat me to it.  Although I haven't seen video evidence of you topping out the arete LH. It looked desperate and scary so I adhered to the tomtom school of topping out

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1152
  • Karma: +126/-0
As for yesterday - How do you do deliverance?!! I'm on the good right foot hold and left smeary edge but feel like my legs are to far apart or my feet at the wrong angles to get any height in my jump.  I'm usually alright at dynos :(.

Drop your left hand then windmill it up to generate momentum.

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8825
  • Karma: +820/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
what 205Chris  - and bend your knees so that your legs have some push in them - I put more weight over the left leg

(or learn to do it with the high right foot)

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2020
  • Karma: +84/-0
I sat in my office looking longingly out the window  :rtfm:


What's this SEALS thing Tom ?
Not clever enough to work out the acronym

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8825
  • Karma: +820/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
it's the latest trendy thing to be seen on, Dolly

everyone's talking about it

short easy arete, low start


tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
#21 What did everyone do on the Grit yesterday?
December 24, 2015, 01:09:43 pm
I fail to see how anyone could ascend it more stylishly than those two...

I couldn't..

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8825
  • Karma: +820/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
we even filmed some of it with an iPhone for fashion value

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2020
  • Karma: +84/-0
Well done lads
Bit highball for me though

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1694
  • Karma: +155/-4
I went to scope out Scout Hut Crag near Widdop. Really good little crag with some awesome looking highballs, which also got the glorious sun all day. Unfortunately, I was too much of a wuss to do the highballs on my bill, so instead I just got shutdown by some 6s. Excellent day regardless.   

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal