1. DWS Project. Fucking done! Only took me 3 seasons...2. Get fitter and leaner.3. Rocket Man.4. V9s.
I think my aims are a bit unrealistic, so I'm including two tiers on the sport climbing:Onsight some 7as (4 so far, forgot to include this originally but was definitely a big aim)RP 7c - pretty unlikely so...RP 7b+ - I'd be really happy with this (done 7b as of March!)A good amount of 7A's (5-15?) 7A+ would be an overachievement I think Be strict with my antags & control my chronic issuesIf my emphasis shifts back to trad climbing - onsight/flash E4s
1. 8A - tick!2. 8A - tick!3. 8APreferably at least one not at Almscliff. Or at the very least, not on DWR.
Alright, I'm in this year just so that I have something to look back at this time next year.Bouldering: Breakthrough my long, long term plateau of 7B. I'm lacking inspiration of suitable local projects. Maybe Sabotage 8A. FailSport: F7b+ onsight. Up a plus from my current peak. Plus a load of 7a+ and 7b onsights would be nice. (fatten the pyramid) Very Nearly Flashed 7b, but tried very few sport routes this year. Did Marlina in short order, which was nice (Fr7c)Winter: Have some quality days in Scotland. I'm operating at a higher level than when I left Scotland, so loads of classics to go at. Did very little winter climbing after Jna - too busy at uniTrad: Consolidate E4 onsighting and get on loads of quality E5s, with improved pacing and tactics. My head was good in the autumn, so long may that continue. Maybe hit Fair Head, Lewis/Hebrides for some big fun trad. YYFY - smashing in the trad. Actually felt solid on some Es which is still hard to get my head around. Did a load of really, really, really good routes at Fairhead. Did Right Wall. Well. Chuffed. Oh, just remembered a far fetched plan. I'm going to join a mate working Requiem at Dumby. Just to see...just to see... NopeFor once I have few trips planned, so a bit of a grade focussed, rather than objective focussed year. N.America in September :-)Outside of climbing. Fix all injures. Fixed some, gained some others. Maintenance. Smash in my Masters with a solid distinction. 81% average so far (70+ is distinction) just my Thesis to do Get a job/set up a company. Working on it... Not much eh?
Climb Arch Enemies/New Dawn/Raindogs/PierrepointGet on Supercool and K3Had 2 more sessions on Arch Enemies, getting closer. Didn't try the others but did have a go on Supercool to see what it's like, predictably brilliant climbing but dismayed by how hard upper crux felt. Have since seen better beta on LisaA's video so am keen to get back on it. mid to long term goal. Do something of relative merit in Siurana at Easter Not a great trip, a few redpoints on L'escamarla one day failing at jump move then pulling on and going to the top each time. Annoying and busy. Get down to the South West more (Ansteys, Brean, Cheddar etc)Brean in January, cold but fun place and I enjoyed the climbing. Went to Cheddar a few weeks ago and did stuff like Shakin' like a leaf and Still waters.. Really good climbing. Rein in back in and climb classic E3 routes all over and become a competent and safe climber, been the butt of the joke for too long and it's funny up until I tool myself. Haven't really trad climbed except pitch 2 of yellow edge and Precious Metal the other week. Had fun and felt safe but enjoyed the 7b Dive Dive Dive round the corner more. Guess i'm just in a different mindset at the moment. Enjoy bouldering, I.e. get out and have fun on circuits with a good team. Get on Suavito ffs!Fun days out in winter, didn't go to Gardoms. General:Don't fuck it up - so far so goodKeep saving - dittoSee family more - dittoApply self at new job - We'll seeRide a horse - They're too scaredGet Nige on hard sport (the 3rd reincarnation of Kershaw) - not a chance, he's too busy trying to take Rob Clifton's crown as works circuit wad.Good luck everyone
Going reasonably well so farClimbing:1) Get back up to E2 on trad Did The Ghost in Dalkey just before heading to the states. Done it before, but its a great route and a good one to test faith in the dodgy ankle.2) Get comfortable onsighting brit technical 5C (have had a long standing mental block about this) Haven't reached this point yet, but feel like I'm moving better than I have before, so theres hope3) Go on a sport climbing trip4) Boulder 7A Done indoors. Hopefully will be ticked for real in the Autumn/Winter5) Solo El Cap again Virginia - Tangerine Trip in 10 days. Boo-yah!Non climbing:1) Play a gig with professional jazz musicians and not feel like a complete imposter Getting there slowly
I'm guessing if you've bouldered an indoors F7A (not exactly easy!) you should be walking up E2's? Keep it up!
8A.
At least one Font trip.
Get married. Survive wedding.
Make decision as to where my wife-to-be and I will be living.
I have two aims for 2016:Rain. Dogs.
Complete 2 routes of 7c-8a in each of 3 peak phases: Priorities = Raindogs & Powerplant + Call of Nature, Why Me?, Sissy & Body Machine plus some other Peak WIPsraise OS level from occasional 7a to consistent 7bOS E4s - Flakey Wall & Resurrection top of hit list.Make at least one trip somewhere with mountains
Better late than never... - Bouldering wise - any of the following would be good: Brad Pit, The Joker, Tetris, Roof of a Baby Buddha, Cosmic Wheels, Special K, Lotus, Mr Fantastic, Stoned Temple Pilots, Diesel Power, Rock Atrocity, Lou Ferrino...- Would also really like to do a trip to Swizzy having never been before.- But my main aim and new long term goal is 8b sport.
QuoteComplete 2 routes of 7c-8a in each of 3 peak phases: Managed 1 x 8a, 1 x 7c+ and 2 x 7c in the two phases so far. On track.Raindogs - did some good links over 2 sessions in Spring, poor nick on 3 visits since.Powerplant - still wetCall of Nature, Why Me? YYFYSissy - not managed to get on itBody Machine - still wetplus other Peak WIPs - Obscene Gesture, Laughing at the Rain, Obscene Toiletraise OS level from occasional 7a to consistent 7b, few 7as, 4 x 7a+ OS, flashed Tin Of (7b?). Heading in the right direction.consistently OS E4 - Flakey Wall & Resurrection top of hit list. - Few E2s, as ever not done enough.Make at least one trip somewhere with mountains - I was thinking Wales really but off to Chamonix next week. Still want to go to Wales...
Complete 2 routes of 7c-8a in each of 3 peak phases: Managed 1 x 8a, 1 x 7c+ and 2 x 7c in the two phases so far. On track.Raindogs - did some good links over 2 sessions in Spring, poor nick on 3 visits since.Powerplant - still wetCall of Nature, Why Me? YYFYSissy - not managed to get on itBody Machine - still wetplus other Peak WIPs - Obscene Gesture, Laughing at the Rain, Obscene Toiletraise OS level from occasional 7a to consistent 7b, few 7as, 4 x 7a+ OS, flashed Tin Of (7b?). Heading in the right direction.consistently OS E4 - Flakey Wall & Resurrection top of hit list. - Few E2s, as ever not done enough.Make at least one trip somewhere with mountains - I was thinking Wales really but off to Chamonix next week. Still want to go to Wales...
Main goal is the usual: E5. This year's twist, do it before 7th June. FAIL7b RP (Clashing Socks, Empire of the Sun, Still Waters Run Deep). Get on a 7b+. Not close. Postponed to Autumn unless Asturias or Switzerland trips turn into sport climbing.Climb at Gogarth and Fairhead. Pentire is a fine alternative for one of these.Climb at Font. at least once. Cancelled in May dues to floods, going there this Thursday.Rabada-Navarro +1 other at Naranjo de Bulnes. Short Picos/Asturias trip in two weeksGet ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives. Watch this space!Keep doing shoulder and other supportive exercises assiduously. Mostly doing these and shoulder is mostly holding up well. One lapse.Try hard enough, often enough, to fall off at least one trad. route. Trying harder, not fallen off yet.
Quote from: the_dom on December 23, 2015, 04:35:30 pm8A.Not quite, but decent progress thusfar.. A couple of 7Cs down.
climbing aims for the year are:Bouldering - V7 or harderSport - 7b+ or harderTrad - E4 or harderNot done 7b+ on bolts but have bouldered and tradded at those levels. As per the year just gone, I've been spending more time going sports climbing so feels realistic.
Ah go on I'll get involved. Some of these would be good, all of them and I'd be stoked. 1. Over the winter, V6/7 at home, in Albarracin and in Bishop. Try V8 at home some point. Some sort of hardish winter sport project - cuttings or whatever. Fighting torque maybe?
2. Actually get on Infinite Gravity. Maybe also try Fuel my Fire, Cider Soak and some harder Portland ticks (mainly west coast high 7s)
3. "Short trip" 8a send. If I can get an onsighting trip organised, try to break through into 7b+/c territory.
4. Trad. Get my mojo back, get back onto some E4s and have a decent go at an E5.
5. This, and be actually on my mental and physical game for it this timeQuote from: duncan on December 23, 2015, 11:24:56 amGet ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives.
Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives.
6. Build on last year's reintroduction to dws, get some obvious Swanage and Devon classics done and push the boat out a bit at Lulworth - 7b+ or more?
7. Buy a house, continue to get on well at work, complete other goals (cycling). Try to make various potential reunions with far flung road trip friends come about.
Get stuck in to a proper project...but get it done within the year (preferably without too much weeping at the bottom of the crag, sacrificing of first born children etc.) No joy. Spent lots of time ticking off things that were previously projects though, so can't complain too much.Trips to font, buoux, fairhead, mallorca, chorro Couple of trips to font in the bag, and fairhead was as good as the reports suggest. Think I even oversaw shark playing pool on a rest day. esoteric siege wad tick?Try to keep the font ticklist under control (preferably by ticking off large parts of it) Obviously a fail. Should know better by now that the font ticklist only grows.Get scared on some DWS (preferably towards the top of adrenochrome) Slowly but surely the season is ramping up.CutlassWizard of Oz, if I can get keen enough for another go
bold as love,
However, I can climb without pain and am just a bit sore after, also can't have more than 2 days on at a time.
Quote from: Footwork on July 22, 2016, 11:26:36 amHowever, I can climb without pain and am just a bit sore after, also can't have more than 2 days on at a time.That's just called "not being Alex Megos", Ben.