[Hugh]

Another 2-in-1:
Sun: Zipped up to Burbage for the day.

I was at Burbage West most of the day, probably seen you there. I was the one falling off everything.

Haha, ditto! Were you one of the guys that came over to look around Breakfast/Famous Grouse in the morning? I was the bloke with the long hair, tied back.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board trying recent problems with screw on footholds, some success.
Wed.  Weights then turbo 1 hour.
Thu. Board just repeating stuff.
Fri. Feels like I'm starting with cold. Wife's works Christmas do.
Sat. Hungover and suffering from cold. Board did a couple of things before grinding to a halt. Weights.
Sun. Nothing just full of snot.

[TobyD]

Any thoughts on the recovery timescale?

Hi Duncan, I have recently tweaked a lateral collateral ligament on my ring finger: it wasn't swollen like yours but pretty painful. I have trained specific grips on a beastmaker loads: no front 3 or mid 2 at all, but lots of back 3, back 2, and front 2. Full crimp with all 4 on felt fine as well. It is feeling totally pain free and fine with low - medium load front 3 now after 2.5-3 weeks. Obviously yours is different, but as 3-9 says I think you can climb (carefully!) or better, fingerboard (more controllable)  on tweaked collaterals very productively.

[Paul B]

Depressing finger injury, 10 days before planning to go to Spain. Seems like the proximal interphalangeal joint, middle finger, which I tweaked a couple of months ago. A sprain of some sort I think, possibly medial collateral ligament, definitely not a pulley. Weird that it's so swollen though, almost like it was infected. All too painful and puffy at the moment to be very sure. No idea how long these kind of things take to recover, never had a significant finger injury like this before. Struggling to stay positive, in general I seem to get better faster from acute injuries like this than from non-specific tweaks. Any thoughts on the recovery timescale?

I don't know how bad your finger is but the tufa route on the RHS of the Mega Tufa wall doesn't really have any small holds on it (nor hard moves) and there's likely a few ways which you can get around the trickier sections (especially if you approach it carefully) - it's been extended and it is really just an endurance route (requires an 80m rope to get back to the pillar). It's also really darn good.

Likewise there's a route on the LHS of Oasis that follows a series of really obvious undercuts leftwards and through a small bulge. If you can find a way around the start this too might be OK?

Unfortunately Chulila (even the easier routes) tends to have the odd small hold! For none fingery stuff you can link all of the stuff on Master's Wall to give very long (two lower-offs on an 80m) for <7a routes.

There's an L1+L2 7ish crack (layback)?

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
5 x 10sec Spiderman
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
50 Crunches

T: Eve - Local Wall
10 mins traversing warm-up

20' Board - 5, 5+, 6A+, 6B+, 6C+ (1stgo) , 6C+ (1stgo), 7A, 7A, ~7A dyno
45' Board - Yellow ~6B+ rpt, ~7A, Pinch/Slope proj

W: Lunch -  10 Pull-ups
5 x 10 Press ups
5 x 10sec (To failure) L-Hangs
5 x 30sec Dish hold
5 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
10 x 5 Off-set pull ups (Alternate arms)

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
5 x 10sec Spiderman
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 knee tucks
50 Crunches

Eve - Local wall
10 mins traverse-warm up

20' Board - 5+, 6A+, 6B+, 7A, 7A (dyno)
45' Board - 6B+, 7A+

Here's a video of the boards/problems I've been doing lately:



F: Got ill, woke up in the morning seriously de-hydrated.

S: Still ill

S: Burbage - Flashed a 5+ and "Go West" as a warm-up then tried "The Nose", couldn't do either method and it felt nails. Tried "Jasons Mono Problem" and kept hitting the finishing hold about 10 times but couldn't hold it, ruined my skin a lot. Went to try "Breakfast" could get LH on the crimp and RH on the slopey crimp a bit higher managed to release the heel-toe once in control but fell off. Nipped over to Burbage North and did "Remergence" really good.

[tomtom]

Breakfast and Jason's mono are both knacky..