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Jam Crack (Read 79040 times)

SA Chris

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#125 Re: Jam Crack
September 27, 2018, 07:33:05 pm
Or the guys who microwaved their brains. Not climbing related, but a great tale.

Dave Flanagan

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#126 Re: Jam Crack
September 27, 2018, 07:35:39 pm
already recorded waiting to see the light of day are Mick Fowler, Gary Gibson, Michael Duffy, Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon.

 :bounce: I could only be more excited if I knew who Michael Duffy is.

Irish boulderer climbed multiple 8Bs. Also recently climbed a harder project. Heard 8c mentioned.

matthew2ts

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#127 Re: Jam Crack
September 27, 2018, 07:59:48 pm
and a still unpublished chat with Joe Brown!

i'm in the i really like the stories camp


SamT

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#128 Re: Jam Crack
September 27, 2018, 09:32:55 pm
Yea gonna keep the stories going, they aren't so popular but some people really love them.

+1 for the stories

duncan

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#129 Re: Jam Crack
October 04, 2018, 05:51:05 pm
Calvin Torrans (The total don of Irish climbing)

Self-recommending. I shared a campsite in Camp 4 with him in 198...cough. Great tales!

That was great. Even enjoyed the ad. break! Could have been double the length. Only a shame you couldn’t get Clare to chip in too.

andyh

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#130 Re: Jam Crack
October 04, 2018, 08:28:46 pm
Please do your Miles Goldie story that was in an OTE supplement or something.

It totally captured life in Sheffield at the time

grimer

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#131 Re: Jam Crack
October 04, 2018, 09:07:38 pm
Wasn't listening to Calvin pure music, Duncan. And I know, Clare would have been great, but she seemed pretty insisten.

cheque

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#132 Re: Jam Crack
October 04, 2018, 10:43:17 pm
I learnt loads from that Calvin Torrans podcast. I’d really like to visit Northern Ireland now. I agree that it could have been twice as long and still interesting, which is not something I’d say about many of the podcasts, even the ones that I enjoy.

Duncan campbell

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#133 Re: Jam Crack
October 04, 2018, 11:39:37 pm
Loved loved loved the Calvin one! Just brill!

Also the Mick Fowler one was great too. Anyone else think that Mick sounds quite a lot like Duncan Critchley??

Danny

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#134 Re: Jam Crack
October 31, 2018, 08:58:20 am
Latest one with Dawes and Dixon is absolute gold, Grimer.

Some choice Dawes quotes:

On indoor parkour style bouldering:

"Get it together guys. You're doing all this pumpy pull-up shit, but basically you're still shit."

On sports scientists:

"I don't like sports scientists. They're all wrong."

On modern bouldering:

"The modern boulder problem is an undercling, get a hold, swing your feet, share, swing to a sloper, catch, and then probably jump off because you can't do the mantle"


cheque

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#135 Re: Jam Crack
October 31, 2018, 11:47:28 am
Oh man, when Johnny starts singing the "grip loading algorithms" for various Peak grit crags.  :lol:

Will Hunt

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#136 Re: Jam Crack
October 31, 2018, 12:22:37 pm
Please can this website be renamed "UKNibNibsLookingAtTheirSkin.com?
Cheers

teestub

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#137 Re: Jam Crack
November 01, 2018, 10:44:19 am
Johnny seems pretty wound up at the start and obviously had a lot more to unload about the state of modern climbing! So funny when he's like a primary school kid trying his best to stay quiet and let someone else talk.

tomtom

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#138 Re: Jam Crack
November 01, 2018, 11:27:35 am
My fave is JR.

Grinder - you very much give the impression you don’t know what’s going to happen next in that one :)

cheque

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#139 Re: Jam Crack
November 02, 2018, 02:53:36 pm
The description “At last! Sport climbing without the safety” is of Adam Smith’s Invisible Hand from the current Millstone guide. Given that Grimer wrote it about Johnny’s route you’d think that one of them would remember it’s origin. :shrug:

grimer

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#140 Re: Jam Crack
November 02, 2018, 02:56:10 pm
Damn memory is going!!!

remus

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#141 Re: Jam Crack
November 07, 2018, 10:16:58 am
Another good un, this time with Gary Gibson http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/jcpc-055-gary-gibson

4697 new routes and £100k on fixed gear!

webbo

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#142 Re: Jam Crack
November 07, 2018, 12:12:54 pm
Another good un, this time with Gary Gibson http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/jcpc-055-gary-gibson

4697 new routes and £100k on fixed gear!
I wonder how much he spent on chisels  ;)

cheque

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#143 Re: Jam Crack
November 09, 2018, 01:58:04 pm
Highly enlightening, that one. It’s amazing that while putting up new routes at a rate of >100 PA for 45 years he’s been a weekend warrior with a full time career, done trade union stuff, actively supported a dreadful football team, fished and still found the time, money and psyche to go to gigs. I always assumed that he’d have to be obsessed with new routing to the exclusion of everything else.

Great to hear him gleefully run through a clearly well-practised collection of Dad jokes (or Dad-style jokes, he surely hasn’t raised a family as well?!) for an unsuspecting audience.  ;D

Whenever he’s mentioned via things like this reaction seems to be split between fawning praise and full-on derision but having heard this I’m even more sure that the appropriate reaction would be somewhere in the middle and it seems Gary would agree.

andy popp

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#144 Re: Jam Crack
November 09, 2018, 02:09:29 pm
I thought this was one was great. He's funny (he always was. And no, he hasn't had a family) but more than anything, he's very self-aware. I said in a FB post, he's quite a complicated man in many ways, but I think he understands that better than most of us understand ourselves. Gary responded and said he'd worked hard at trying to get to that point, not least through writing his book.

Will Hunt

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#145 Re: Jam Crack
November 09, 2018, 03:04:13 pm
I thought this was one was great. He's funny (he always was. And no, he hasn't had a family) but more than anything, he's very self-aware. I said in a FB post, he's quite a complicated man in many ways, but I think he understands that better than most of us understand ourselves. Gary responded and said he'd worked hard at trying to get to that point, not least through writing his book.

When are you going under the mic, Andy?

andy popp

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#146 Re: Jam Crack
November 09, 2018, 03:06:22 pm
I think I'm safe, I'm not sure Grimer has the travel budget (also, have no idea why anyone would want to listen to me ramble on about old stuff).

Actually, that should be I think you're all safe.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2018, 03:11:27 pm by andy popp »

Will Hunt

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#147 Re: Jam Crack
November 09, 2018, 03:19:26 pm
I think I'm safe, I'm not sure Grimer has the travel budget (also, have no idea why anyone would want to listen to me ramble on about old stuff).

I think the popularity of the podcast shows that there is an almost insatiable appetite for climbers to listen to other climbers rambling on.

One day you'll have to come back to fulfill some chore or other, and that's when we'll get you.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=182058

spidermonkey09

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#148 Re: Jam Crack
November 09, 2018, 04:30:03 pm
That photo is phenomenal. Whats the context behind it?!

andy popp

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#149 Re: Jam Crack
November 09, 2018, 04:42:58 pm
It accompanied a story Grimer wrote about kidnapping Jerry - a fictional story, obviously.

 

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