Oh, by the way... The Italian doctor who made the campusboarding and fingerboarding mistakes videos, has a very good advice: do not do pull ups on a fingerboard. The high stress imposed to tendons and joints, teamed with the pronated prehension and the elbow flexion, build a very dangerous ensemble. I haven't done pull ups on a fingerboard in ages and never noticed the lack of them.
....someone pressed him for evidence to support his "2-3 seconds" lock off theory, and Neil didn't really come up with any as far as i can remember, it was just his opinion.
how often do you lock off to 90 degrees for any hard moves outside?