[Sasquatch]

In this thread: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26483.0.html, I mentioned I had started a new training program based around Jim Wendler's 5/3/1 weight training idea.  It seemed like a bit of a split from the thread title/intent, and as it was something a bit different and Schoon pointed me to a blog with the same idea (https://markclimb.wordpress.com/), I thought I'd post up a thread on it.  It's not aimed at climbing, but I was doing it during a period of shoulder rehab, so I thought I'd give it a shot to see how it worked for climbing training.  I did a couple of cycle and was impressed.

Background:  Wendler's 5/3/1 is a basic strength training program for weightlifting (https://www.t-nation.com/workouts/531-how-to-build-pure-strength).  It has strictly defined loads for each lift and defined sets and reps.  This is a workout aimed at STRENGTH - not power or fitness.  Generally speaking this is well proven program for weight training. 

The blog and t-nation link above give a good overview of the program.  There are 2 major differences in how I'm applying it, but neither one really has any scientific backing, so choose what you think suits.

#1: What is a Rep? - This is a tricky one.  There are may different methods to use, I've heard people use 6-7 seconds because that is the average length of time a person is using a hold.   The blog link above decided to use 7-10 seconds based on other sources.  I decided to go a different route.  I chose 3 seconds for three reasons. The first is that when I looked at how long most "lifts" take, they are generally between 2-5 seconds per lift.  The second is something mentioned on here that refers to the time to maximal strength during an isometric contraction being 1.8 seconds.  The third being that when you are climbing, you have 4 distinct phases of using a hold.  The first is initial contact, which is generally the first 1-2 seconds.  The next phase is prepping for the next move which is the next 2-3 seconds.  The third is when you are moving the other hand and initiating alternate hand contact which is another 1-2 seconds.  The last is the final prep for moving that hand.  In my experience, the initial phase is highly nuerological recruitment and strength, the second phase is sub-max, the third is maximal strength, and the fourth is submaximal again.  Obviously this is different on every problem/route, but this is very typical.  Based on this idea, I decided a 3 second rep seemed appropriate.  Also, given the lack of "rest" when bouldering, I decided against any "rest period". between reps I decided to simply step down, release the fingers, and then re-engage immediately. 

#2: How to determine 1 Rep Max - Once ou decide on what you're using as a rep, how do you determine your 1 Rep Max for this program?  For a few years I have always used total hanging weight as a way to measure FBing with added weight.  For me this is because my changes ALOT of the natural course of a year( I will easily add 10-15 lbs over the winter and drop it again over the summer.)  As such, added weight is not a good measure of total strength.  So my measurement is always total hanging weight and then a % of that.  If the weight I'm supposed to use is less than BW for that particular set, then I will use a larger hold or a pulley to reduce the weight. 

I am just starting week 2 of this cycle, and will be doing several cycle of this.  I'll post up results after each cycle as I go through.

Let me know if you have any questions. 

[LiamB]

Thanks for sharing this Sas. I look forward to reading it. I'm using 5/3/1 for my leg rehab work. I like it.

[blamo]

Thanks for the write-up.  I think this could have some fairly interesting results.

[cjsheps]

Thanks for sharing this Sas. I look forward to reading it.

 

[shark]

Sas,

Interesting ideas.

I could do with changing my routine as I don't seem to be eliciting much gain at the moment (at least with my crimps). I was wondering what you might think of doing each "set" with changing grips ie Front 3 drag, Full Crimp, Half Crimp, then 4 finger drag. I'm thinking of this order as it is weakest first. Perhaps 3 sets after warming up with 10 mins rest between. I'm speculating that when you climb you have to alternate grips quickly so being used to the variety might have some crossover. On the other hand it might be better to just do each set with a set particular grip with the added weight calibrated accordingly.

[shoon]

I would pick just one to do during one session. If you read up on Mark Gold for example he was doing half-crimp one day and then pinch another Day. Pick the one that you think will get the biggest reward for. If I remember correctly Maisch thinks the Half-crimp is the best as there is a ~20% cast-off to the other positions ...

[the_dom]

Sas, I was doing something like this - my approach was to get through 4 to 6 sessions at 1RM as per the Maisch protocol, i.e. starting at 3 10s hangs per hold at 1RM and building up to 6 hangs, then dropping that to about 40% of 1RM and doing 3 sets of 5 x 7s repeaters for the '5' portion.

After two of those sessions, I'd up the weight to about 70-80% of 1RM and do two sessions of 3 sets of 3 x 7s repeaters for the '3' portion.

The '1' portion would involve 1 set of 5 x 7s repeaters at about 50% of 1RM, 1 set of 3 x 7s repeaters at about 80-90% of 1RM and 3 max hangs at about 1.1RM.

All in all, I saw decent benefits from it.

[abarro81]

Would be interested to know how u get on with this sasquatch

[Sasquatch]

Well, unfortunately we'll have to wait a bit longer.  I ended up having to travel for work and deal a wide variety of other family issues, so after doing week 1 week 2 was a complete 100% miss.  With christmas next week, then new years, it's looking like this will be a 2016 thing.