[dave]

you can't keep a good shirt down.

[a dense loner]

what's a retro-flash? the 7b+ on the "other roof" would be worth a little go

[Fingers of a Martyr]

dave says

if your a diet-monkey like blondie then its only 6c

 

[chappers]

retro flash? i think i read a post by chris doyle with it in. a problem that i have tried when i was weak and couldnt do but now im strong(er) ill try to do it first go this time around. good term i think.

[chappers]

the other 7b+? is that down the hill, not that huge roof into the crack on the face and slap up? that strange guy in orabnge pants on the bleau vid climbs it. i though that that was 8a or sommink.

last time i was there the holds felt like glass

[dave]

i think the 7b+ he means is arabesque (autre toit) which is 7b+ and chipped to fuck. the one lamoune does in bleau is either eclipse (standing start 7c) or totale eclipse (sitter 8a+) i can't remember offhand.

[a dense loner]

yeah arabesque, chipped to fuck? badly? recent? monkey man does them both in vid

[a dense loner]

not tried it btw, sam did it while i was on a rest day :wink: but looked very good

[dave]

yeah arabesque, chipped to fuck? badly? recent?

chipped to fuck in that every hold on the top half it is a chipped 2-finger pocket, adn even the big pocket might be drilled out at the back. basically only the start holds are natural.  its always been chipped. it goes with a righ finish to avoid some of them (but surely not all) at 7c or summert.

[Sloper]

La balance, round the back of L'abbatoir etc (the easiest version is 7b+ the hardest is 8a I think) I've fallen from mathcing the sloper twice and will be far too weak to give it a go this sept, but if no one else has mentioned it SUPRISE is the problem :up:

[a dense loner]

surprise is awful on my poor wrists. had couple of goes n will never be tryin it again. thought i'd find that n salle gosse ok, was very much mistaken.

[dave]

anyone got any foot beyda for sur-prise? after getting sideslope and second thundercut do you just keep right foot on the good pollish botton foothold and pull through for the flat sloper or what? we were found wanting in the sequence department.

[a dense loner]

yup