[Durbs]

Managed about an hour of dry rock on Saturday when the clouds parted and the sun made an appearance.

Had a quick play on Joe's arete as it's been on my "nearly done it" list for a while (3 visits to the Roaches - have climbed harder grades elsewhere...).

Anyway.

I've always done it that the last move involves left foot on the left face on top of the first hand-hold, rocking over, right hand on arete and drive to the top, LH catch (this is the bit I haven't got yet).
When there though, others were staying completely on the path-side face, LH staying in the good hold, high right feet then dyno-ing up to catch with RH, so topping out on the path-face.
This seemed very morpho (it's a big jump, i'm very little) and not the delicate balancey problem I thought it was.

Are both valid and the crux is holding the barndoor or just different routes?
In other words, what's the original method?

[GCW]

I've always done it kinda like this:




Except you can do the top static with the high right foot he doesn't use.

[Johnny Brown]

Nah, more like this:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/9pkl3ptG_Xs

[GCW]

Show pony.

[dave]

We're asking for the "original" method on a problem that could have been first done 60 years ago?

[Durbs]

Well, ok, not "original", but "proper".

Both those show finishing up the left-face which is what I'd always attempted (though with the right hand).

I've got closest using the beta for the one-handed version, but using two hands.

Many thanks

[JamieG]

I first did Joe's arete the 'tall' man / dyno way and that is probably the easiest technique, even if you aren't tall. You just need to give it some beans. The top is massive, so if you hit you'll hold it. You can do it a more balancy way, putting a heel hook in the big left hand hold and then rocking up (right foot high on the path side), but i think that might be even more morpho, although it feels a nice way to climb it.

Interesting to see the one-hand method with the right hand. I did it using my left only and doing a big slap from the good hold to the top, which is pretty scary, since if you miss you are flying off backwards. To be fair one-handed is a pure exercise in ego stroking (which i'm not above) :-)

[Will Hunt]

Don't worry about the method. Both are equally valid - it's not an eliminate!

I think I do what the bloke in the first video does except I opt to use my feet properly instead of throwing them around and hoping they stick to something.