[36chambers]

Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen

Bit of PMA for you!

Good luck

This is the one Simon, dig deep. 

"throw your heart over the bar and the rest will follow" 

[shark]

Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen

Bit of PMA for you!

Good luck

Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen

Bit of PMA for you!

Good luck

This is the one Simon, dig deep. 

"throw your heart over the bar and the rest will follow" 

Cheers Guys. Got to be realistic though. Been at it since the end of August and it is hard to sustain a level for so long and I'm off the pace physically and mentally now. With a combination of good conditions and application it could still go down before it craps out but it would be a lucky redpoint if I did. It was encouraging and motivating to get to the top traverse twice on thursday but I was spent by the time I got there - and for the next two days.  The only thing I can guarantee is I will try my hardest. 

[dave]

Since the pressure's off now, you're not expecting to do if, you might smash it in unexpected style. Nothing to lose at this point.

[36chambers]

Been getting my thoughts together thinking how best to prepare / train for onsighting in Chulilla in January and something other than the Oak in Feb/Mar because it's going down on Wednesday. It will happen oh yes it will happen

Bit of PMA for you!

Good luck

This is the one Simon, dig deep. 

"throw your heart over the bar and the rest will follow" 

Cheers Guys. Got to be realistic though. Been at it since the end of August and it is hard to sustain a level for so long and I'm off the pace physically and mentally now. With a combination of good conditions and application it could still go down before it craps out but it would be a lucky redpoint if I did. It was encouraging and motivating to get to the top traverse twice on thursday but I was spent by the time I got there - and for the next two days.  The only thing I can guarantee is I will try my hardest.

I'm quite curious about this. Obviously it's very mentally taxing having a project like this, I was just wondering what your general thoughts are as you're heading to the crag.

Is it a case of heading up there thinking "today's the day, I've going to absolutely crush it" or is it more casual and just putting in a days work?

I've had varying success with heading to a project convinced I'll crush it and alternatively, casually deciding to give a project a go since I'm there and it's there on a particular day. I think the latter tends to work more in my favour, but I don't suppose you often find yourself at Malham not expecting to get on the Oak.     

[shark]

I'm quite curious about this. Obviously it's very mentally taxing having a project like this, I was just wondering what your general thoughts are as you're heading to the crag.

Is it a case of heading up there thinking "today's the day, I've going to absolutely crush it" or is it more casual and just putting in a days work?

I've had varying success with heading to a project convinced I'll crush it and alternatively, casually deciding to give a project a go since I'm there and it's there on a particular day. I think the latter tends to work more in my favour, but I don't suppose you often find yourself at Malham not expecting to get on the Oak.   

When I first got the breakthrough of getting to the top traverse 8 weeks ago I was convinced if I got to that point 2 or 3 times more it was in the bag. I've now got to that point 16 times so that belief that it would definitely go down has faded. It surprises me that I cant get enough power back to get through the traverse from the shake at the start - doesn't seem to matter how long or short I stay at the shake - Im neither recovering or getting more tired. Conditions have been fickle, to say the least, too. Generally too warm, humid and midgy. This often means hanging round for hours till the sun goes off the route before even attempting redpoints. What I try to focus on is turning it on and applying myself when I pull on to redpoint putting aside whatever my expectations might or might not be that day.

[SA Chris]

it would be a lucky redpoint if I did.

In the words of Gary Player "the more I practice the luckier I get"!

Warm temp will always be a problem IMO. I've found on problems and routes on the coast that as soon as the sun goes off them and the rock starts to cool there is a tiny window between the rock cooling and moisture condensing on it. If it's cooler air temps all day you are in with a better chance. Hope you get them before the rains cone!

[shark]

Warm temp will always be a problem IMO. I've found on problems and routes on the coast that as soon as the sun goes off them and the rock starts to cool there is a tiny window between the rock cooling and moisture condensing on it. If it's cooler air temps all day you are in with a better chance. Hope you get them before the rains cone!

Precisely. That window is really small now as with the sun being lower it takes longer before it goes off the route nearly 4pm and then its dark not long after that. Forecast is for it to be cloudy all weds but but been let down many times before 

[Nibile]

Come on Shark, it will be and feel epic!

[Wood FT]

I'm obviously preaching to the choir but one of the reasons I managed my project was due to giving myself more credit. You're doing really well Simon, take joy in the fact that you're feeling strong and get flicky through the moves (like Tommy). One of the best redpoints I had on PP prior to success was a piss-take go shouting in french every move, I fell off partly through laughing. I wouldn't suggest that but it was amazing how much it reminded me about why I was doing what I was doing and to relax and rejoice. I'm really keen on getting a few goes on Raindogs this year so I hope I'm there (with camera!)

Sounds a bit a weird that but I can't really get to my point. 

[tomtom]

Sounds a bit a weird that but I can't really get to my point.

Try shouting in french then type again

[kelvin]

Nik has turned up in Margalef... it's now raining UK style. I'd forgotten what rain was like.

[the_dom]

Felt like a solid week.

Mon: Bouldering and Maisch protocol deadhangs
Tues: Sneaky after-work surf
Wed: Bouldering outdoors, followed by Maisch protocol deadhangs
Thurs: 30 fast-ish mins on the treadmill.
Fri: AM weighted CWP protocol assisted one arm deadhangs. Weights at lunch.
Sat: Indoor bouldering. Solid session.
Sun: AM Maisch protocol deadhangs, PM indoor bouldering

Hopefully getting there, given that Swizzy is just over a month away!

[Sasquatch]

M-Mtn Bike in AM with my Wife.  Amazing trail and scenery
T- Morning session at Middle Bliss, Did v0,v2,v4,v5, and v9, then did a bit of wandering and headed to Blitz Boulder and flashed a v9 and a couple easier lines, then to Hate Handles, and did Hate Handles-v10 in about 4 goes, then to teh Golf Course Boulders and dmanaged to send Tiger Woods-v9. 
W-Mtn Bike PM. amazing downhill trail
T-Long day out - Started the day at Hope Valley - Warmed up on a v2 and v4, then jumped on Future Present-v9, managed to tick it 2nd go.  Was really hoping to get on Welcome to the Future-v11, but the opening traverse was baking in the sun.  Headed to the Mountain Beavers next and got on a few classics there-Started off with Wild pack of family Dogs-v6 Flash, then worked and barely snaked a send of Beaver Teeth-v10.  Then flashed Beaver Cleaver-v4, Beaver Fever-v7, and Beaverality-v7.  Then headed to the Golf Course Boulders and flashed a v4, v8, v2, and v6.
F-Travel All day back to Anchorage
S-
S-Soccer Game

Overall an amzing trip to Tahoe.  Makes me want to come back even more.  The bouldering was amazing, the Biking was even better, and now that I've checked out a few areas, maybe next time, I'll get stuck into a few harder things. 

Now it's back to training for the winter. 

[shark]

get flicky through the moves (like Tommy).

He's got a great climbing style. That leg swing he uses to get the momentum to go for the layaway by the second is really imaginative. Proud dad

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: Nowt. Shattered from Peak trip on Sunday.
Tue: Max hangs (10s), 20mm +30kg, 16mm +22kg
Wed: TCA, woody session. Despite feeling knackered managed to almost send a project I've been trying for the last 18 months or so. No idea how hard it actually is but it's my anti-style (steep and crimpy), so quite pleased with progress.
Thu: Swim.
Fri: Session on the 6c-7b circuit at TCA. Ticked a few more.
Sat: Bike ride with the boy*
Sun: Max hangs (10s), 20mm +32kg, 16mm +24kg

* well, I did the riding, he made demands for cake from his trailer. I was eventually forced to give in.

Fairly straightforward week, although right elbow is a bit worryingly tweaky now. May have to take it easy for a bit.

Weird week. Can't believe I'm ill again after only just getting rid of the last thing. Somehow some motivation has returned even through it all which feels like a good thing. Can't wait to get outside soon for bouldering or winter sport action, feel like I've missed days and days of clear days.

Shit luck on the bugs, but good to hear you're psyched again Sam!

[shark]

get flicky through the moves (like Tommy).

He's got a great climbing style. That leg swing he uses to get the momentum to go for the layaway by the second is really imaginative. Proud dad

Might there be a video? For the tiny minority of us who are not Malham regulars ....

No - he wasn't keen to be filmed but I'll override that when we go on Sunday

[nai]

One of the best redpoints I had on PP prior to success was a piss-take go shouting in french every move, I fell off partly through laughing.

On my successful go I sang my way through the easier sections, this wasn't planned, i just said "here we go again" as i set off and carried on into smithers-Jones. Don't know whether this helped control my breathing and keep the blood flowing but it certainly relaxed me and ensured I didn't overgrip.  Needed to knuckle down and try hard in the roof before chilling out again in the kneebar, top wall was well practised to attack through the letterbox then got the song going again once in the undercuts and chilled out but was ready to attack again and try really hard the final four moves.
So possibly your point was something about using some kind of strategy to take your mind off how badly want to climb the route which in turn relaxes you and aids performance.

Go for it, shark, nothing to lose, chill out and enjoy it.





Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[cheque]

One of the best redpoints I had on PP prior to success was a piss-take go shouting in french every move, I fell off partly through laughing.

On my successful go I sang my way through the easier sections, this wasn't planned, i just said "here we go again" as i set off and carried on into smithers-Jones. Don't know whether this helped control my breathing and keep the blood flowing but it certainly relaxed me and ensured I didn't overgrip.  Needed to knuckle down and try hard in the roof before chilling out again in the kneebar, top wall was well practised to attack through the letterbox then got the song going again once in the undercuts and chilled out but was ready to attack again and try really hard the final four moves.

This song technique is vital for me to redpoint successfully. 

I have a hard time getting myself to believe I can climb well and occupying the conscious part of my brain with singing in my head lets the unconscious part do its job unhindered. I put it down partly to my previous life as a musician. The song often chooses itself like yours did but I got a technique this summer of manually getting a specific song going. It lost its potency as I became more familiar with the tune and the act of reciting it as I climbed though- a fresh one popping into my head that I know well enough to not have difficulty remembering but haven't heard or thought of for ages is the most effective.

[duncan]

STG: Don’t get injured.  Strength work, fingerboard or bouldering, twice a week.. Rehab. finger.
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.

Last week:

M: Westway. 8 x routes to 6b.
T: shoulder/elbow rehab. stuff.
W: Westway. 10 x routes to 6b.
T: Tweak+ to shoulder lifting offspring overhead (more number 8 than swan lake).
F:
S:
S:

This week:

M-S: Athens with family. Epic journey there (plane stopped in Milan for a spare part) and back (4 hours delay so far, and we're still in Athens). Yoghurt, honey, ruins, museums, islands, a mini-riot: the complete Greek experience. Offspring requested next family holiday is in Fontainbleau, a definite YYFY.

Aches much better after a complete week off. Plan: ease back into bouldering and finger boarding in preparation for new year in Chulillia.

Good luck shark.

[petejh]

You'll send it quickly next year Shark, personally I wouldn't bother spending any more time on it now if you've past your peak - you risk getting injured. A winter's training will see you crushing in March.


STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Moderate drytooling training whilst bicep heals. Build chain resilience.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter), 8b+ (by next summer)
LTG: 8c (within 2 years)

M. Massage. Neck strengthening routine - surprisingly good kinetic chain exercises.
T. Core & mobility sesh.
W. Manod drytool crag - first tryout to see how bicep coped, did one v.easy route. V.floss, curls 3x12 (7kg), lowers 3x10 (12kg), neck strengthening.
T. TRX and KB's sesh. Curls 3x10 (7kg)
F. Curls 3x12 (7kg), lowers 3x12 (12kg), neck strengthening.
S. Slate, got rained off after one route. Beacon, did a bunch of 6s, bicep felt ok. Core & mobility sesh.
S. Manod drytool crag. 2 M6+/7, 1 M7. Bicep feeling alright.


Almost time to decide whether or not it's worth committing to the winter plan or whether it's too much for the bicep tendon. If so I'll sack it all off and start training for spring rock. Already 4 weeks behind the original plan for winter. Will decide by end of this week.

[LiamB]

One year this week since I injured my knee. 2 weeks since the NHS physio signed me off and said I could sensibly climb again (two and half months since I started climbing again, tentatively).

STG: Continue Knee Rehab, 7A (End of the year), lots of grit bouldering.
MTG: 7B (April), 8a (September); Picos next summer?
LTG: 8c

M-W, F: Decorating
Thu: Easy Bouldering Session at wall.
Sat: Bouldering Burbage 3 x 6B, some other stuff;
Sun: Bouldering WCJ 6s - too afraid of falling on my knee to top them all out. Tried Kudos 7B which I, unsurprisingly, found hard;  FB; OA Press (5 x 17kg), Push Ups, GMs.

Very little but very happy to be able to go out without being too scared of falls. My leg in particular felt very tired at the beginning of the week and benefited from a rest for recovery.  Quite psyched. Still unemployed.

Come on Shark.

[filz]

Good luck shark!

M. hard session. I did 3 set of isometric weight training and then fb max hangs.
T. light hiit training
W. board session. Tests on a PE circuit (done 18 moves, my record last year during the PE training was 20) and max hangs on the board.
T-F rest
S. weights training and some finishers: ring support holds, squats, plank, L-sit
S. Back to Sasso again to try Shelter. Conditions were very good. This time I did everything well except the final mantle where I fell 3 times. Mantles are my black beast. I need to find a way to train them more.

Mixed feeling this week. I'm very happy for a couple of work related yyfy. I would have been ever more so if I had climbed shelter.

[Sasquatch]

You'll send it quickly next year Shark, personally I wouldn't bother spending any more time on it now if you've past your peak - you risk getting injured. A winter's training will see you crushing in March.

I sort of agree, but with a small caveat.  Make a plan and then stick to it.  Decide to continue until X, then reset and come back to it in the spring.  It may help your mind focus by having both a deadline and a release. 

[Will Hunt]

You'll send it quickly next year Shark, personally I wouldn't bother spending any more time on it now if you've past your peak - you risk getting injured. A winter's training will see you crushing in March.

I sort of agree, but with a small caveat.  Make a plan and then stick to it.  Decide to continue until X, then reset and come back to it in the spring.  It may help your mind focus by having both a deadline and a release.

Fuck that shit. You've got it on the ropes, Shark. Time to knock the seventh shade of shit out of it 

Any self doubt you may be experiencing will only add to the legend later. "They say he'd passed his peak, but he nailed the RP and clipped the chains with ease."

[shark]

You'll send it quickly next year Shark, personally I wouldn't bother spending any more time on it now if you've past your peak - you risk getting injured. A winter's training will see you crushing in March.

I sort of agree, but with a small caveat.  Make a plan and then stick to it.  Decide to continue until X, then reset and come back to it in the spring.  It may help your mind focus by having both a deadline and a release.

I wouldn't be going except the sharklet is psyched for Raindogs