I've been back week from a fortnight in Font, which has left me with tons of motivation and a catalogue of known weaknesses to turn it against. However, I have temporarily trashed what the physio thinks is my subscapularis tendon on the front of my right shoulder. Prognosis is good, he reckons, and it seems to be healing a bit and the rehab's moving along well already, but I'm left with a lot of spare time that I would normally spend climbing (inside, London-based) unable to do much.
Mercifully, I have access to a really good gym, so I've been doing the following:
- Running on a treadmill, mainly to stop myself getting pudgy without climbing to fill my time, but also hopefully to drop a kilo or two of fat.
- Rotator cuff exercises (as much as I can without pain) using a cable machine
- Lots of stretching, mainly hip turnout stuff (frogs, pigeons etc.) and box splits work-ups.
I'd like to do some more core, but I'm quite limited by not being able to hang from a bar or do press-ups at the moment. I've been doing front and back dishes and straight and twisting crunches. I've also been doing some light-ish (~85% BW) squats. Does anyone have anything else I should be doing?
I could also be working on some aspects of my pull strength. I was going to try bent over rows and biceps curls next session and see if my shoulder complains. What sort of rep/set structure would people recommend if I can do these?
Obviously, fingerboarding is out of the question, which is annoying.
PS -
I know this will essentially be rehashing some information from other threads. I'm also partly after the motivating effect of strangers from the internet telling me to pull my finger out and do some things.