[El Mocho]

Did the direct mantle here yesterday, pretty thrutchy- I am covered in grazes today all over my chest, arms and knees! Not the easiest to grade as it is dependent on how much you like humping stuff. Beta fairly obvious but it does tackle the nose as direct as possible without the good holds out left on the easy problem. My beta: up to undercuts, RH undercut pocket, left to lip then work slightly R to nose and over.

Vid of JB on it here (edit: still queuing with vimeo)

[dave]

I always wondered if there was anything decent there.

[Bonjoy]

Good work. Cleaned this up about two years back then pretty much gave up on it. It's also been separately 'discovered' by at least two other folk I know.
Snakes indeed  . Oh well I'd never have done it if it rates Bransby 7b+ (makes the infamous Welford 7b+ seem positively soft touch)!!

Any footage of ascent? Would love to see how you mounted it.

[Jim]

looks piss

[r-man]

Where is it?

[Johnny Brown]

Its near Cutthroat bridge on the A57.

My beta: up to undercuts, RH undercut pocket, left to lip then work slightly R to nose and over.

That is literally the worst beta I've ever seen. What Ben did was use his right heel to get his right hand back to the arete (the bit I fail to stick in the vid), then switched heels and mantelled with his left heel up.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

You sandbagging bastard Bransby!

[Fiend]

Unspeakably bad beta?

[El Mocho]

That is literally the worst beta I've ever seen. What Ben did was use his right heel to get his right hand back to the arete (the bit I fail to stick in the vid), then switched heels and mantelled with his left heel up.

then work slightly R to nose and over.

  Sounds pretty similar to me. Don't want to give too much away, I have a reputation for Bransby 7B+ to maintain.

Any footage of ascent? Would love to see how you mounted it.

This is an almost identical move to that thing me n Ned did at Robin Hoods (RH side pull arete, LH palm and high LF) so if you just watch the vid of that you will have all the beta and just imagine a lot more wobbling and humping and grinding going on. There was a point I was considering going and borrowing my wifes neoprene rash vest but I was already wearing her knickers and I am only alowed 1 item at a time.

[monkey boy]

Attempted to brush this up and try it today. Obviously much too warm but seems like a great problem; I was trying it differently to Bransby, imagine that!

Anyway with some traffic I am sure it will clean up nicely. Get to it!

Oh and it felt way harder than 7B+ and I like humping!