[SA Chris]

Going to be staying at friends' house in York next week. Most likely be seeing friends on weekends, but might be able to get out for a bit on grit during week if weather is good.

Alternatively, is this the best bet for an indoors session locally http://redgoatclimbing.co.uk/ Is it rammed all the time (see what i did there) or best to wait til after 8? any nights better than others? Any alternatives nearby?

[andy_e]

Once again, you pick a week when I won't be there! 

[SA Chris]

Sorry, I'll tell Aberdeenshire Schools to get their holidays sorted!

[tommytwotone]

You could hack over to one of the Leeds walls, not been to Red Goat yet so can't comment but obviously Depot / City Bloc / Leeds Wall all worth the trip.

[SA Chris]

Yeah that would be Plan B if this goat place is rubbish, but 10 min drive vs 45 min plus? From what I can see it looks OK, on FB it seems they have probs set by Swales and Barrans? Be good to fail on those.

[tomtom]

What's the Dunne wall at Harrogate like? That's probably 20 min away...

[webbo]

There is another wall in York at Oaklands school sports centre with a small bouldering area. I don't know how much it gets used these days but it used to be ok. I image Red Goat would ok as York has reasonable climbing community.
If your really desperate there's my board 30 minutes away in the bad lands of East Yorkshire.

[SA Chris]

What's the Dunne wall at Harrogate like? That's probably 20 min away...

Dunneo

There's this too

https://www.york.gov.uk/info/20080/sport_and_leisure_facilities/750/energise_climbing

But will probably stop by Red Goat for a look before going there for a session, it's in city centre.

[Stabbsy]

The Red Goat is my local - good wall, good problems, etc., far better than Energise/Oaklands which is pretty limited as a bouldering venue. It can be busy at times, but tends to quieten down past 8pm (when I'm normally there). Definitely worth a visit. Not sure when I'll be down next week, but feel free to send me a PM.

[moose]

Not been for a few years but the wall in Oaklands was okay for a one-off visit or if pushed for time.  A few nice crimpy problems on the central prow but it is a very small venue and often over-run by classes of school kids (unsurprisingly given than it is a school facility).  Harrogate was better (last time I went, which was some time ago admittedly) but, again, suffered from a lack of simple comp-style steepness for my taste.   Enough to go at for evenings or if in need of a brief fix, but personally I would have to be pushed for time to consider it instead of the Depot. 

Not heard of  Redgoat...the photos on the home page don't look prepossessing - all looks a bit slabby / near-vert - the promise of skidding off overused smears, smacking shins on volumes, and ripping tips.  That, and the first photo to load on the home page being of people in vests drinking coffee.... all smacks a bit much of "fun" and "sociability"... I want images of a wall to project the promise, nay the certainty, of dedication to repetitious failure!  Presumably, Stabbsy, the setting is pretty decent then? 

[SA Chris]

Not sure when I'll be down next week, but feel free to send me a PM.

You have mail

[SA Chris]

Stabbsy, I'll be in your neck of the woods again next week, fancy a social boulder? Not sure I could keep up running!

[Steve R]

Red Goat is a great little wall.  Well, I say little, I see on facebook it's now substantially bigger as they've gone into the adjacent building.  It's my local(ish) wall when I'm back in the Uk staying at my parents' and always look forward to going there.  Really good setting (both in house and from pros), nice positive little scene and friendly owners, (generally) good music and speakers, good cafe and all that stuff.  Never seen it too busy and now it's bigger, definitely can't see it being an issue.  Perhaps was a bit lacking in quantity (though not quality) with steeper surfaces previously but I saw what they were building in the new bit earlier this year and a lot of it was steep.  Definitely recommend a visit if it's wet outside.

[SA Chris]

Thanks Steve. Yep, had a good session with Stabbsy at last visit, hope to do so again. Good vibe

[Steve R]

the first photo to load on the home page being of people in vests drinking coffee.... all smacks a bit much of "fun" and "sociability"...

Ha, see what you mean.  They could do with some better photos on there to do the place justice.  Saying that, fun and sociability are probably the main things for most wall users so might be bang on?   

I want images of a wall to project the promise, nay the certainty, of dedication to repetitious failure!

Despite lack of images, I can attest that you can find this there too.  Often there's a bit of an aura about the current hard 'Barrans circuit' there....

[Steve R]

Oh yeah, in my rush to big up the goat, totally failled to notice that all the posts here are from 2015!  Have a good week.

[Stabbsy]

Stabbsy, I'll be in your neck of the woods again next week, fancy a social boulder? Not sure I could keep up running!

Yep, I'm about next week. Keen for Goat or maybe out to the Cliff if the weather's OK? Tuesday/Wednesday looks the best bet for me at the minute.

[Will Hunt]

Oh yeah, in my rush to big up the goat, totally failled to notice that all the posts here are from 2015!  Have a good week.

But in doing so, you have spoilt us by giving this classic Mooseism another airing. I'd say that's well worth it.

I want images of a wall to project the promise, nay the certainty, of dedication to repetitious failure!

Could the next item for the UKB shop be a pocket collection of The Wisdom of Moose. Comes with a free gift of a small bottle of Prozac.

[New Jersey]

Simply put Red Goat is an excellent wall which has recently been extended to nearly double the size . Professonally run with very welcoming owners and staff. Oakland's is better than nothing but no comparison. And no I don't own or work at Red Goat 😉

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[SA Chris]

Stabbsy, I'll be in your neck of the woods again next week, fancy a social boulder? Not sure I could keep up running!

Yep, I'm about next week. Keen for Goat or maybe out to the Cliff if the weather's OK? Tuesday/Wednesday looks the best bet for me at the minute.

I'll probably only be free from 7 on an evening unless I drag the whole family along in which case I'll end up belaying on Low Man Easy Way or something, with maybe a half hour to tick a few probs.

[New Jersey]

Oh yeah, in my rush to big up the goat, totally failled to notice that all the posts here are from 2015!  Have a good week.

I did exactly the same thing!

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[SA Chris]

Out of curiosity, for a quick bouldering hit from York what's the quickest decent spot to get to? I went to Hetchell once but that was 20 years ago, and I was trying to do routes and was left uninspired, but might enjoy bouldering / highballing there a bit more. Or does everyone just truck right on to the 'cliff?

[tommytwotone]

That, pretty much.


As a former westside York resident I'd just head out to Caley / The Cliff.


I know a few people who have rated Hetchell, though I've never been myself. Spofforth's obviously a bit closer but the rock quality isn't great.

[SA Chris]

Yeah, we went to Spofforth once when I was local and questing. I think we did one problem and went to the cliff.

[Paul B]

What's the Dunne wall at Harrogate like? That's probably 20 min away...

I quite like the fierce Barrans routes but the bouldering is quite limited. The board looks good for circuit work but I haven't used it for such. My Dad drives ~1 hour to this rather than going to the soon to close Rock Antics in Newton Aycliffe (~5 minutes), however, he gets some daft OAP deal which gives him coffee and entry for about 2FAs.

[tomtom]

Not bad up at the cliff at the moment. A bit warm but a very stiff breeze...

[SA Chris]

Bit like Scotland then. Apart from the warm bit.