Quote from: a dense loner on October 12, 2015, 07:33:37 pm3) if you can hang properly or do a one armer on the small BM holds you either need to go outside 3 times to enable you to climb an 8B or you need to quit climbing. This doesn't apply if you don't really climbI don't understand why the flak I seem to be attracting is necessary. I should quit climbing because my climbing ability is catching up to my finger strength? Good logic! I train hard cos I can't get outside and when I do I never get on 8B, I don't think I have ever even pulled on on one.So let's drop the "holy shit Arthur can't climb 8B, he must be the worst climber ever" thing shall we?
3) if you can hang properly or do a one armer on the small BM holds you either need to go outside 3 times to enable you to climb an 8B or you need to quit climbing. This doesn't apply if you don't really climb
I then went on to say if a guy can hang one handed properly on the small BM holds then he could climb 8B in 3 days if he never went outside. That's true
Eh? I think you've took my post entirely the wrong way AMorris! I wrote "you" meaning the royal "you" ie not you at all, anybody. I then went on to say if a guy can hang one handed properly on the small BM holds then he could climb 8B in 3 days if he never went outside. That's true
Quote from: AMorris on October 13, 2015, 05:00:32 pmQuote from: a dense loner on October 12, 2015, 07:33:37 pm3) if you can hang properly or do a one armer on the small BM holds you either need to go outside 3 times to enable you to climb an 8B or you need to quit climbing. This doesn't apply if you don't really climbI don't understand why the flak I seem to be attracting is necessary. I should quit climbing because my climbing ability is catching up to my finger strength? Good logic! I train hard cos I can't get outside and when I do I never get on 8B, I don't think I have ever even pulled on on one.So let's drop the "holy shit Arthur can't climb 8B, he must be the worst climber ever" thing shall we?no-one is down on you Quote from: a dense loner on October 13, 2015, 05:31:25 pm I then went on to say if a guy can hang one handed properly on the small BM holds then he could climb 8B in 3 days if he never went outside. That's true Post up your one-armer-ness so it can be critiqued. as i've said earlier I'm going to do it as much for entertainment and drawing my own personal line-in-the-sand so i can see where i need to improvei certainly can't one-arm a small edge, i can about 3/4-1-arm
Quote from: joel182 on October 13, 2015, 03:40:46 pmIsn't the load on the fingers the same throughout the range of motion?No not at all. It's much easier to hang in on the hold when you start with a kick. (I suspect that's because it takes about 0.6 seconds before the fingers reach 90% of maximal peak force (and about 2s to reach maximum peak force).)
Isn't the load on the fingers the same throughout the range of motion?
The inertia that has to be overcome is the same* whether you start with a straight arm or bent arm since its the same mass hanging from the fingers that are in contact with the hold that has to be moved against the gravitational force.This is separate and distinct from utilising a FFS which will help get things going whether you're starting with a straight arm or bent arm, although obviously if you raise your feet off of the ground first with either a straight or bent arm a FFS is then impossible. Starting with a straight arm means the nadir is further from the zenith and you have to move the mass a greater distance.* Heavy gravity days excepted
Bourne R1, Halaki M, Vanwanseele B, Clarke J. (2011) Measuring lifting forces in rock climbing: effect of hold size and fingertip structure. J Appl Biomech. 27(1):40-6.This study investigates the hypothesis that shallow edge lifting force in high-level rock climbers is more strongly related to fingertip soft tissue anatomy than to absolute strength or strength to body mass ratio. Fifteen experienced climbers performed repeated maximal single hand lifting exercises on rectangular sandstone edges of depth 2.8, 4.3, 5.8, 7.3, and 12.5 mm while standing on a force measurement platform. Fingertip soft tissue dimensions were assessed by ultrasound imaging. Shallow edge (2.8 and 4.3 mm) lifting force, in newtons or body mass normalized, was uncorrelated with deep edge (12.5 mm) lifting force (r < .1). There was a positive correlation (r = .65) between lifting force in newtons at 2.8 mm edge depth and tip of bone to tip of finger pulp measurement (r < .37 at other edge depths). The results confirm the common perception that maximum lifting force on a deep edge ("strength") does not predict maximum force production on very shallow edges. It is suggested that increased fingertip pulp dimension or plasticity may enable increased deformation of the fingertip, increasing the skin to rock contact area on very shallow edges, and thus increase the limit of force production. The study also confirmed previous assumptions of left/right force symmetry in climbers.
