[Muenchener]

Supposing somebody was contemplating a week in Spain some time over the winter, and this somebody was:

• climbing in the low 7s
• more comfortable on short bouldery stuff than on long pumpfests - but willing to put in some training for long pumpfests before going
• had been to El Chorro before, years ago, didn't find it *that* inspiring and would rather go somewhere else

... where would he go?

[slackline]

Lleida

[Wood FT]

Chullila, I'm going over new year. Looks great.

[TobyD]

Supposing somebody was contemplating a week in Spain some time over the winter, and this somebody was:

• climbing in the low 7s

[li]more comfortable on short bouldery stuff than on long pumpfests
[/li][/list]
... where would he go?

Chulilla is amazing; however, 30m is short there; if you prefer non monster pitches, in those grades I'd go to the crags around Siurana (not so much Siurana itself) e.g.: Arboli, La Mussara, El Falco, Mont-ral etc. Its a beautiful area, great refuges, cheap flights. (Reus or Barcelona)

[moose]

+1 to Toby's post

Chulilla is really nice - has crags that get the sun, and crags that are always in the shade - important as Spanish crags in winter can be a bit unpredictable re whether you will be boiling hot or freezing cold (often both in the same day!).  The life-style is pretty low maintenance too - crags are within walking distance of the village so you can amble down to buy some bread etc and then go climbing without having to mess around with cars and daily out-of-town trips (though for a big shop or a decent meal out you would have to drive).  But, the best routes are long and I found that the quality was concentrated around 7c/+ (pretty soft grading generally so might be worth projecting if your local low 7s are more stiffly graded); although, there are some decent routes around 7a-b.

The Siurana area has more variety and depth.  I would not be surprised if the valley alone has more quality low 7s than Chulilla.  Then you have the village crags, and the possibility of trips to Arboli, Margalef etc. It would be colder than Chulilla - Nov/Dec mornings in Siurana can be bloody freezing. Although, as there a lot of crags, facing a variety of aspects, you can generally find somewhere reasonably pleasant.  It's the sort of place where you can warm up in the morning sun at one side of the valley, and then walk across to the shady side of the valley if it gets too hot without a great deal of lost time.

[mrjonathanr]

I know this really does not match your post, but I suspect this might be, at another time, to your liking:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.480726618683552.1073741828.377631778993037&type=3

El Pilar de la Embarradera, Pic Midi d'Ossau

[jwi]

Pic Midi d'Ossau is nice (but in France if I'm allowed to pick nits....). The routes are on andesite of high quality, and have generally no drilled protection, not even on the belays. Various numbers of pitons in various state though. The only place where I've ever clipped a fixed cam hook....

Chulilla  is great in the low 7s but as everyone already told you, the routes are long. Thats true for most of the good sectors for low 7s around Cornudella de Montsant as well: El Falco in Arboli is paradise for low 7, but the routes are mostly 30m or longer, and the same is true for Raco De Missa. There are some really good shorter 7s in Siurana though.

[nik at work]

I'd agree with those above, Siurana/Margalef area sounds like a decent option. On the downside if you're thinking early November I'll be there then...

[mrjonathanr]

jwi your English is superb but nits are gnets I believe, not to be picked as a rule.

Sorry, I'm nitpicking.

I did PdE with Spaniards so have only ever looked at it from that (south facing) point of view. Memorable day out though, recommended.

[kelvin]

There's a belay awaiting in Suirana/Margalef...

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[Muenchener]

Yep, that had occurred to me. Couple of friends from here are pointing their van in the general direction of Catalonia soon too, and I've got a few days' holiday left ...

[jwi]

jwi your English is superb but nits are gnets I believe, not to be picked as a rule.

Sorry, I'm nitpicking.

[Muenchener]

Bloke at the wall last night asked me if I was Swedish when I was explaining some sling trainer exercises to him, so it would seem my German accent isn’t obviously English. Am quite proud of this.

[mrjonathanr]

And so you should be, that's cool.

[jwi]

Bloke at the wall last night asked me if I was Swedish when I was explaining some sling trainer exercises to him, so it would seem my German accent isn’t obviously English. Am quite proud of this.

 

French people have started to ask me if I'm dutch, which I take as an compliment. (I've decided to take any comment as a compliment. My wife still claims my accent is incomprehensible and refuse to speak french with me)

[seankenny]

Chulilla  is great in the low 7s but as everyone already told you, the routes are long.

Is a 70m rope enough, or is it really worth going with an 80m?

[jwi]

Chulilla  is great in the low 7s but as everyone already told you, the routes are long.

Is a 70m rope enough, or is it really worth going with an 80m?

If you like long routes and dislike faff, bring an 80m. Most routes have intermediate anchors, with a 70m and some down climbing you'd be able to do most routes. If you have a new 70m, and you're pretty sure you will not have to cut it during the trip, don't buy a new 80m just for Chulilla.

[fried]

Bloke at the wall last night asked me if I was Swedish when I was explaining some sling trainer exercises to him, so it would seem my German accent isn’t obviously English. Am quite proud of this.

 

French people have started to ask me if I'm dutch, which I take as an compliment. (I've decided to take any comment as a compliment. My wife still claims my accent is incomprehensible and refuse to speak french with me)

My wife says the same thing, luckily she doesn't speak English, so she has no choice. I occassionally get accused of being Belgian.