S got stupidly close to Incapacity Benefit, could do all the moves easily with rests, powered out on RP, maybe because of 3 days in a row
ps. if I can do a route with one (very short) sit, what do I need to work on? power endurance? or just endurance?
Where are you powering out/resting? It shouldn’t be (aerobic) endurance that’s the issue: you can more or less stand in balance / no hands at the second bolt, reasonable shake out at the third and from there it’s at most ten moves until you have the bomber jug after the fifth bolt and your feet over the roof. If this is your main project then maybe go super-specific? Laps on a ten to twelve move powerful pulling-over-a-roof problem with a technically tricky but not too strenuous vertical traverse into the start?
Yeah I think I was just powered out, I tried pretty hard on Friday fiddling wires into some steep routesNo, this won't be my main project - I did all the moves easily first time. Just trying to work out why I couldn't quite link them that day as it isn't a stamina fest Am thinking of investing time into Indecent Exposure 7b+ version. But no one seems to climb lime after October!
Glad about how I recovered from the weekend in the Dollys, the tons of food may have helped.
Indecent is very prone to seepage and so isn't a good Winter project. Tin Of and Sardine are better bets at the Tor.Although too loose for my taste Garage Buttress is virtually perma dry. Topo here: http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Garage%20Buttress%20Topo.htm
Is that chips served on a plate made of schnitzel? if so, I like it.
no oak news this week then?
I would still go even if hot. You can a) improve both physically and mentally from climbing in less than perfect conditions, then succeed as soon as it gets fresher; b) climb the route nonetheless.
Quote from: Nibile on September 24, 2015, 02:09:19 pmI would still go even if hot. You can a) improve both physically and mentally from climbing in less than perfect conditions, then succeed as soon as it gets fresher; b) climb the route nonetheless.c) trash your skin so that forthcoming attempts in good connies are sub par and painfuld) injure yourself greasing off holdsFrustrating waiting but a very disciplined effort staying away I reckon, hope it reaps rewards.