[shark]

That's the point, comparing them is pointless

A comparison isn't pointless. For instance a boulderer looking to benchmark themselves over the winter to set their route aspirations for the summer would find it useful and the eatswood traverse for example feels much more like a route so a route grade is appropriate of itself.

[ashtond6]

I don't use them. We're on a forum and I'm sharing my pov, no doylo not that kind, on them. What you will find is that if you do lots of traverses you'll get good at doing that grade traverse, which won't in any way relate to the same route grade. You are r-man and I claim my £5 

Interesting point about them being non transferable. do you think this is because you use different techniques to climb sideways?

I figured it would help gauge finger strength & general stamina - for example, if I had the stamina to complete the eatswood Traverse, I should have the stamina to climb an 8a, or at least a 7c

[abarro81]

The main reason why trav fitness doesn't always convert to route fitness is, in my opinion, less likely to be physiological and more likely to be psychological and tactical.

[shark]

The main reason why trav fitness doesn't always convert to route fitness is, in my opinion, less likely to be physiological and more likely to be psychological and tactical.

 

[Tommy]

And throwing sideways for a hard move is different from throwing upwards. The demands of "up" vs "crab sideways/horizontally in a roof" have significant differences. That said, of course there will be cross-over.

[Fultonius]

The bonus of Consolidated is that it goes up almost as much as it goes across, it's not one of these crab-crawl shuffles.

[Paul B]

As I'll point out again Barrows, that's because you cheat your way around every hard move and/or have your feet practically on the floor. PUTP didn't succumb to this. If it feels like an 8a which hasn't yet adjusted for the modern use of knees then that isn't a strong argument!

[Doylo]

You tell him Bennett. He did my Pill box traverse with his feet on the floor.

[joe dobson]

Longridge traverses:

Start to central icefall direct = 7b+
Start to wobbly bloc = 7c+
Middle bit = 7c
Middle bit plus = 7c+
Central icefall to high break = 8a
Start to high break = 8a+
Traverse of the gods = 8b+

[haydn jones]

weed killer is only 12 moves long, its hard to translate to sport grade, but i guess  hard 7b+ would be more appropriate not 7c+

powerband for me is 13 moves, again hard to translate, hard 8a if i had to say staminaband is 8b+ and 24 moves long

minus ten traverse (no break) is nowhere near 7c maybe 7a? haven't done it since last year but remember is being very easy and felt like you could just rest on every move along it. like wise with break maybe 6b

the rubicon traverse left to right finishing up the juggy 5+ problem is nice, maybe sport 6b

[lagerstarfish]

The Full Traverse at Rubicon?    7C

From the porthole on the far right, traverse left below the break, then into Low Traverse and finish up Debris. French Grade: 8a+. Apparently, it is best done "in tights, a 'banana' pod chalkbag and two bits of carpet (one for each end).

and then there's the old favorite linking all 3 tiered traverses into Crimps and Pockets 6C,6A,5,6B. 7b+? changing the order of the traverses will make a difference

I quite like DT90s thing of getting worked going back and forth across the low traverse and then doing a straight up (and down again etc.) - apparently this might get you fit for routes

[dave]

Lot of crack smoking going on this week.

weed killer is only 12 moves long, its hard to translate to sport grade, but i guess  hard 7b+ would be more appropriate not 7c+

I think if weedkiller was way above the ground with a line of bolts along it it'd be way harder than 7b+.

powerband for me is 13 moves, again hard to translate, hard 8a if i had to say staminaband is 8b+ and 24 moves long

Powerband always used to be given sport 8b back in the day.

minus ten traverse (no break) is nowhere near 7c maybe 7a? haven't done it since last year but remember is being very easy and felt like you could just rest on every move along it. like wise with break maybe 6b

Your medal is in the post. But tere's no way on earth the climbing on the low no-break traverse is 7a. Compare it to, hmm, I don't know, like any 7a route anywhere, ever.

All this really goes to show you can't really give sport grades to traverses, it doesn't work, leads to cracktalk like the above, they're not routes they're boulder problems. It's a bit like saying "I've got a dog, but I think from certain angles in certain light, if I squint, it reminds me a bit of a cat, so assuming it's actually a cat what species of cat would it be?". It's not a fucking cat its a dog.

[tomtom]

Whats the grade if my cat climbs weedkiller?

[dave]

Whats the grade if my cat climbs weedkiller?

Still font 7b.

[lagerstarfish]

I didn't even know that Dave had a dog

[dave]

I hate dogs and cats.

[lagerstarfish]

but you'd give them 7b for a 7a+ traverse?

[shark]

All this really goes to show you can't really give sport grades to traverses, it doesn't work, leads to cracktalk like the above, they're not routes they're boulder problems. It's a bit like saying "I've got a dog, but I think from certain angles in certain light, if I squint, it reminds me a bit of a cat, so assuming it's actually a cat what species of cat would it be?". It's not a fucking cat its a dog.

All it shows is that Haydn has lost the plot

[moose]

It's a bit like saying "I've got a dog, but I think from certain angles in certain light, if I squint, it reminds me a bit of a cat, so assuming it's actually a cat what species of cat would it be?". It's not a fucking cat its a dog.

But both blocs and routes are made of moves, whereas cats are not made of lots of small dogs (I hope, not looked at one under a microscope).    Still, they are somewhat incomparable, maybe more like saying "I've got a stripey moggy but I think from certain angles in certain light, if I squint, it reminds me a bit of a tiger, so assuming it's actually a tiger, how old a tiger would it be?"... or maybe not.....

[lagerstarfish]

I'm worried about people placing bolts on traverses so that partnerless aspirant route climbers can get a more realistic training experience

[shark]

It's a bit like saying "I've got a dog, but I think from certain angles in certain light, if I squint, it reminds me a bit of a cat, so assuming it's actually a cat what species of cat would it be?". It's not a fucking cat its a dog.

But both blocs and routes are made of moves, whereas cats are not made of lots of small dogs (I hope, not looked at one under a microscope).    Still, they are somewhat incomparable, maybe more like saying "I've got a stripey moggy but I think from certain angles in certain light, if I squint, it reminds me a bit of a tiger, so assuming it's actually a tiger, how old a tiger would it be?"... or maybe not.....

I fear Dave has lost the plot also

[haydn jones]

 

[ashtond6]

and then there's the old favorite linking all 3 tiered traverses into Crimps and Pockets 6C,6A,5,6B. 7b+? changing the order of the traverses will make a difference

that's a good one, thanks

ps. Minus Ten traverse is never ever ever F7a

[Will Hunt]

The Virgin Traverse, Almscliff - F6B+ / 7a+?

Pisa Wall Traverse, Pex Hill - F6B / 7a?!

[andy_e]

The Virgin Traverse, Almscliff - F6B+ / 9a+?