[lemony]

We were 'asked' to leave Shitlington by the farmer this summer before we'd started climbing. He said that we had no right to climb there under cROW and that no one had climbed there for at least the 20 years that he'd been there. We were definitely on the non-private part of the crag, but were obviously polite to him, packed up and left.

My friend did make the BMC aware of it, but haven't heard whether they made contact with said farmer.
...

Plus, just to complicate things, at Shitlington, a good few years ago there was an incident of some kind, gates left open and horses getting onto the road or something. Maybe that's a factor.

When we were up there scouting it out (just going for a walk) a few months ago the cows around the boulders closest to the farm were particularly frisky and curious, I could easily imagine them getting spooked and causing problems - they chased us back to the car!

[duncan]

... and that no one had climbed there for at least the 20 years that he'd been there.

This should ring alarm bells. It was Mary Alford's successful strategy in keeping climbers and walkers off Vixen Tor.

[jdal]

... and that no one had climbed there for at least the 20 years that he'd been there.

This should ring alarm bells. It was Mary Alford's successful strategy in keeping climbers and walkers off Vixen Tor.

Bit unlikely (a) Plenty people will swear to having climbed there, including barrister(s) (b) it's already Access Land, which is what Mary Twatford(spit) is trying to avoid and (c) The Ramblers Club would be a bit miffed if he shut the Pennine Way down.

[tomtom]

Shit the bedlington. Plus the Battlesteads in Wark is a great post-climb boozer too.

'Kinell - sounds like a quote from a Guy Ritchie film..

[andy_e]

Do you know what a nemesis is?

[jdal]

Do you know what a nemesis is?

Does who know what a nemesis is?

It's a small, faint star postulated as a companion to the sun in a hypothesis to explain the supposed cyclical nature of terrestrial mass extinctions. Or a Greek goddess. Or a few other things. 

I take it you mean that on this access issue, we're doomed and may as well give up, and I personally think that's the likeliest outcome until something else changes.

[metal arms]

Do you know what a nemesis is?

A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by an 'orrible cunt... me.

[andy_e]

Sorry jdal, it was a reply to tomtom. I say if it's CRoW land, go there.

[jdal]

Aye, bang on. Get onto CRoW land if you wish. If you think the landowners are likely to think "what a nice lot climbers are" because sometimes we forgo our lawful rights in order to assist them, then you're a right saddo. Their trade union, the Countryside Alliance (spit), will focus on negative incidents, and they'll STILL want us off the land. We have precious few actual legal rights in this country, and this is one of them. Don't let it get eroded by these bastards.

- disclaimer - not all landowners are like this. For example the BBD and Bowden lot, who also own much of the Cheviots, "don't want to stop people enjoying the  countryside"   

[andy_e]

Countryside Alliance is a misnomer, they're exploiting the countryside, not allied to it!

[SB]

Hello everyone,

For some reason, after an initial reading of the thread I've been unable to access the site, and now magically it's popped up again.

As John Dal has indicated the guide to Shitlington should be posted up onto ISSUU before Christmas. In the meanwhile......

Climbing on the Eastern section (Above and to the East of Shieldfield and Blinkbonny Cottages) is currently forbidden,  the background to this ban has been
lost in time, but the key point is that these crags are on private, not 'Open Access Land'. And for now the owner/farmer is very determined that it will stay that way.

The Western section is however on Access Land (The boundary is clearly shown  on the OL42 25000 map, and is detailed in the approach/access notes in the new crag guide).

There have, in the last 10 years only been two 'incidents' and I go there quite a bit. (It's local to me.) Some years ago while on the far West end I was approached by a farmer/shepherd wh
used the 'I don't remember being asked for permission to climb here  line'. We had a discussion and he left. More recently a party were approached when climbing on Access Land, (But when closer to the closed far Eastern crags), were told climbing wasn't allowed and were told to leave. In my instance it was probably the tenant farmer who works the Western area, more latterly it could have been either him, or the owner of the Far Eastern section speaking on behalf of his mate - we don't know.

But as I said it's only two incidents in a long time...... annoying but not a huge issue, particularly if you know you are on Access Land and stand your ground.

The new guide describes the best approach to the Western (permitted) area, which is from the Road above the crag by the transmitter mast. Walk down the Pennine Way to the crag in 5 minutes or so. Don't try to climb on the  Far Eastern crags, several parties have asked and been refused..... and it is private. You could approach the crag via the public footpath that goes past Shieldfield and Blinkbonny, but it's longer by 300m, has poorer parking, and might just end up in an argument....

If you are approached on the Western section then politely stand your ground and if possible get the individual to explain who they are, we then know who to approach.
In the case of the Western section, the farmer is just trying it on and cannot make you leave unless there's a temporary restriction in place (to check visit:  http://www.openaccess.naturalengland.org.uk/ ), IMHO, the tenant farmer won't get around to doing anything like this, but it's worth checking before you go, you are then in a better position to tell him  to go away....

John Dal also refers to some other instances where we have 'cowtowed' to landed gentry on access. (This sort of thing brings out the Revolutionary in John ;-) )  I'm of the opinion that where an amicable arrangement can be made regarding access then we should do it (such as the long standing arrangements for Sandy and Key Heugh which are on Access Land). While we've  a right to go and play on many of these places, others are dependent on the same  landscape for their livelihood. If reasonable, different routes in and out can be agreed, while not compromising access, then I think we should do it.

Apologies for the long winded response, but hopefully it clarifies things a bit.

Steve

[jdal]

For the record, I'm merely following the recommendations given by Bill Renshaw, who was on the team that negotiated CRoW details with the government. If we can negotiate an approach to, say, the Stell then fine. Do it. But if we're banned that's a different thing entirely. It's probably illegal for someone to try and stop you. Those negotiations we had with the Bowden People were a great example of how both sides should go about things.

[SB]

The guides for Shitlington are finished and are being uploaded to the ISSUU stack. They have also been posted to the NMC and County Psyche Facebook pages.

Regards,

Steve

[jdal]

Up on ISSUU now.

[lemony]

Cheers! Might be a while before it's climbable at this rate!

[SB]

Two more guides have been added to the ISSUU stack, one for The Lost Rocks, a bouldering venue East of Rothbury, and Sandy Crag, which is North of Key Heugh (AKA Sandy Crag...).
Both are also available and downloadable from the County psyche FB page.

Steve

[SB]

I've just uploaded to the NMC Chat Facebook page, County Psyche, and ISSU, the latest in the series. This is to Hepburn South.

Have a great Christmas and New Year.

Steve

[SB]

I have just uploaded to NMC Chat, County Psyche and Issuu, the latest bouldering supplement PDF, which is to the Simonside Escarpment.

Have a Great Christmas and 2018.

Steve

[SA Chris]

Good work Steve, and everyone involved in these.

[gme]

The area covered in this topo is great.

The whole simonside, ravensheugh area plus this are great spots in the summer, a bit of walking between problems, and dont expect to see much chalk, but well worth the effort.

[SA Chris]

Plus great rock quality, and views.

[SB]

An updated guide for High Crag in the North Tyne valley is now available for download. It has been posted up on the NMC Chat and County Psyche Facebook pages and uploaded onto the NMC Issuu page.

[Alex-the-Alex]

That looks a great crag. And these NMC topos are brilliant. Testament to why these style guides/topos still exist!

[jdal]

FYI - So people can easily get hold of these PDF's Steve has reposted all of the completed ones on the County Psyche group on FB.Enjoy

[SA Chris]

You guys deserve medals for your efforts.